20 Most Recent 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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you most likly have still got a pocket of air somewhere in your line that is moving back and forth in your lines . If after changeing your fuel pump, did you bleed your system? if not you will need to do that . if you did , you may need to repeat that process again in order to get all the air out of your lines . hope this is a help, and good luck. signed Redneck car daddy

poor ground wire check for corrosion

P-1689 no communication between ecm & injection
pump module (obd ii)

possible causes
fuel inj pump gnd ckt open or high resistance
fuel pump ctrl mod harness observable defect
datalink (+) circuit open
datalink (+) circuit short to ground
datalink (-) circuit open
datalink (-) circuit short to ground
engine control module defective

There is an ongoing problem with squeaking front brakes on dodge rams and charger rt.From 2000 up to present Ihave been told dodge used cheap pads and rotors on a lot of there cars and trucks.I own a 2008 charger rt with 40000 miles and changed brake pads and rotors twice and they still squeak.i herd only remedy is to buy upgraded pads and rotors but these are much more expensive then stock parts.For now i am putting up with squeak till i get the extra money to get rid of noise.the brakes wont fail they just squeak.(I know very annoying)for now i just turn up radio a little louder LoL.But until dodge admits there using cheap ???? parts complaining to dealer didnt help.Good luck. PS A friend of mine put on slotted rotors and expensive pads and yes the still squeak.So mabye it has somthing to do with calipers but again dodge wont admit this.

I think the 8th number is the engine number on the VIN and the 10th number /letter is the year ...might have that backwards. but i am close to correct

Check injector pump timing, sounds like your problem.

some time sthey have a fuseable link

first check the sensors behind the wheel rotor will be a wire check an make sure its connected and not damaged if looks good than have truck scanned most auto stores offer this service for free check ur local area the trouble code will pinpoint which and what kind of problem ur abs is having so u can fix or replace to problem

Under the dash where the clutch pedal exits the cabin at the clutch master cylinder, you will see a two pronged plug. Unplug it and run a a small piece of wire from one side of the plug to the other.
CAUTION: THE VEHICLE WILL NOW START WITHOUT ENGAGING THE CLUTCH PEDAL AND WHILE IN GEAR!
I hope I've answered your question. If so please rate my assistance and leave a testimonial.

E C M located on left side of engine behind fuel filter

Not likely the booster. and what you describe sounds like a M/C problem, but here is some stuff to try.

Master cylinder needs to be bench blead. No bench bleed, you may never get brakes. You just cannot push air down the lines. a kit can be bought at the parts store that has hoses that screw in where the brake lines go and loop back into and below the fluid of the reservoir. Pump till no bubbles.
FROM this point, do not allow the fluid in MC to run low, or start over.

Now go and bleed the rest of the brakes.

When you finally get it working, press the brakes hard, **** off of the seat pressing, just to be sure everything is okay. You will be pressing harder than that in an accident situation. The brakes need to work.

Anyways, I think that you still have air and resolve that and they will start working.

Doc

I have the same problem right now..Ive done some recearch and came up with the input and output censors on the transmission.Still waiting for the parts..I would diffently check into it before replacing the transmission...keep me posted

tps input voltage is 5 volts, output varies 0 to 5 depending on position

means u hav too much pressure in pump--shud be inspected by a pro-also a haynes manual is helpful-may need a rebuild--library has chilton books

its supposed to turn on then off its called priming, it will run continuously when the motor cranks and runs. check the fuel pressure while cranking.

Under dash, driver side, at the left side of instrument panel on fuse block