20 Most Recent 1995 Buick Regal - Page 8 Questions & Answers

In the gas tank.

Duplicate question.

One is used as a primary fan and the other is used when the ac is turned on or when extra cooling is needed.

Just pull the dipstick out for the trans while the engine is idleing in park.

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) The TDM is what tells your computer that the correct key is being used and that it is "OK" to allow the vehicle to start and run. These 3 parts must be in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending important signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, (normally due to a failing/broken part) the car goes into antitheft mode. The car misinterperates this and thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is NOT getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. So basically, if that light is on, your system has some sort of failing part. This can start as an intermittent "no start", to your vehicle not running for days at a time, to the vehicle NEVER starting again. The problem is electrical and computer based, so don't count on an easy reset button, or the problem fixing itself. The hard part is isolating which part is the problem. You can spend a thousand dollars through a mechanic very easily. I have had great luck with bypassing the entire system. This way the problem will never return. It actually CAN'T ever return because it is eliminated. This can also be done yourself at a much cheaper cost. Read through this link very carefully. You'll find alot of information and pictures, along with ways to help you fix this. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

check all your fuses and your coil/coils, could be your alternator. check your distributor cap also, points, tightness, etc.

For a "casket" I would recommend contacting your local undertaker. If what you mean is that you want instructions on how to replace a cylinder head GASKET, then what you need is a service manual or a subscription to the service information for your vehicle. There is WAY too much information needed and the job is WAY too involved, for anyone to post it for free in an online forum. You are talking about MAJOR engine repair.You might want to try subscribing to the service information for your vehicle at alldatadiy.com

1998-95 VEHICLES EXCEPT 1994 3.4L AND 3.8L ENGINES See Figure 1 Listings of the trouble for the various engine control system covered in this manual are located in this section. Remember that a code only points to the faulty circuit NOT necessarily to a faulty component. Loose, damaged or corroded connections may contribute to a fault code on a circuit when the sensor or component is operating properly. Be sure that the components are faulty before replacing them, especially the expensive ones.

Fig. Fig. 1: ALDL connector - 1988-92 models The Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector or Data Link Connector (DLC) may be located under the dash and sometimes covered with a plastic cover labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR.

1. The diagnostic trouble codes can be read by grounding test terminal B . The terminal is most easily grounded by connecting it to terminal A (internal ECM ground). This is the terminal to the right of terminal B on the top row of the ALDL connector.
2. Once the terminals have been connected, the ignition switch must be moved to the ON position with the engine not running.
3. The Service Engine Soon or Check Engine light should be flashing. If it isn't, turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire. Turn the ignition ON and confirm that light is now on. If it is not, replace the bulb and try again. If the bulb still will not light, or if it does not flash with the test terminal grounded, the system should be diagnosed by an experienced driveability technician. If the light is OK, proceed as follows.
4. The code(s) stored in memory may be read through counting the flashes of the dashboard warning lamp. The dash warning lamp should begin to flash Code 12. The code will display as one flash, a pause and two flashes. Code 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system acknowledgment or handshake code; its presence indicates that the ECM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence. Some vehicles also use Code 12 after all diagnostic codes have been sent.
5. After Code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, will each be transmitted 3 times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowest to highest.

The order of codes in the memory does not indicate the order of occurrence.

1. If there are no codes stored, but a driveability or emissions problem is evident, the system should be diagnosed by an experienced driveability technician.
2. If one or more codes are stored, record them. Refer to the applicable Diagnostic Code chart in this section.
3. Switch the ignition OFF when finished with code retrieval or scan tool readings.

After making repairs, clear the trouble codes and operate the vehicle to see if it will reset, indicating further problems.

Bad bearings, or another worn suspension part. I'd have it checked by an alignment specialist.

low fuel press.

A possible malfunction in that systemUntil you get the codes & have someonediagnose that system,you won't know the answer.A Wheel Speed Sensor, may be the most commonto the majority of ABS issues,but not always

A rhythmic metal on metal noise in an engine usually follows a classic rule: valves tap and pistons knock. If the noise is rhythmic with the speed of the engine and incrementally increases when the engine speeds up, then it is one of these two issues. All you need to answer in this case is whether your noise is a tap or a knock. On the other hand, if the clanging sounds more like an old diesel engine and increases in volume when the engine accelerates, then the problem is pre-ignition. If the problem is simply pre-ignition, then you will need to check your ignition system, including the knock sensor, crank sensor, and all your spark plugs and coils. This is the simplest thing to do first. Unplug each coil one at a time to verify that the engine loses power for each one. Valve tap can be caused by lifters or a broken valve spring. To diagnose this, you need to remove the valve cover and check the lifters. Are any loose when you try to move them up and down by hand? Engine knock signals that your engine needs to be rebuilt with new piston rods and bearings. It is not a good idea to drive very long with either condition or you could end up causing more damage and get stuck on the side of the road.

U DEFINITELY HAVE A LEAK. IF U GO TO A LOCAL AUTOZONE OR PARTS STORE U CAN RENT A COOLANT PRESSURE TESTER. IT WILL PUSH THE LEAK RIGHT TO THE HOLE