20 Most Recent 1998 Volkswagen Cabrio - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Operation of the braking system and the engine are two (2) different issues. I'd suggest checking the level and condition of your engine oil to see if it's adequate or burnt. You may also need to check to see if you have experienced a failure of your timing belt. The condition of the timing belt deteriorates with age and mileage, and usually needs to be replaced at bout 90-110,000 miles. Failure of the timing belt can cause a major engine failure (which may or may not be repairable). The braking systen depends upon proper operation of the master cylinder which operates effectively only when the engine runs properly. You should check the fluid level in you resevoir on the master cylinder. The fluid should almost completely fill the resevoir and should be clear (although it may have a yellow tint). The braking system will not prevent the engine from starting, so it's best to start with the engine. Check condition of the battery. Any battery over 6 years old should likely be changed (but not until you know the engine hasn't been damaged). Jump the car from another vehicle or large battery charger. Listen to hear if the starter has engaged (a grinding sound). Then see if the engine cranks.

Tough to diagnose at a distance without knowing what maintenance has already been performed and how many miles are on the vehicle. If you are not mechanically inclined, this may be a good time to find a friend who is and/or a reputable mechanic.

Hope this helps.

ya should have a fuse under the hood or its probly a relay and if the switch is bad you can by pass it temp to get it to close but dont do it long term or you will fry the wiring

From what you say in your post, I can tell you it is not the flasher... the symptom you describe is due to either a wire fault (a short) or one of your bulbs on the right side is incorrect. The relay is located under the drivers side dash above the fuses (listen for the clicking of the flasher) and you may actually be able to feel the proper relay "clicking"... Hope this helps...;-)

I recommend taking apart the intake and cleaning it thouroughly, including the vacuum hoses from the valve cover to the intake hose. I had a very similar problem and it cured mine wonderfully. It took me about 3 hours to dissasemble and clean everything with carb cleaner and re-install it all. For clarity, I took off everything from the airbox to the intake of the engine, including the large aluminum air duct that covers the top of the engine and exposes the spark plugs. Which is a great time to change plugs and wires by the way.

Good luck.

I have fixed my problem with my car idling rough and stalling. I took off the intake manifold and all the intake hoses and vacuum lines. I cleaned everything with carb cleaner. I couldn't believe how dirty it was. Especially the plastic vacuum component that went from the valve cover to the intake hose. It was full of oily foam. I also took apart the electronics that control the throttle at idle. I wouldn't recommend this as it is very expensive if you mess something up. You have to file off two tabs to get it open, and I cleaned the contact points and checked the connections inside.

It has been about a month now and the car has been idling great, in fact it is running better than ever. I also found that the number one spark plug was arcing out through a small crack in the rubber boot. I used electrical tape around all the spark plug caps because the wires were only one year old, and apparently I had torn the rubber during re-installation and wires are 100 dollars.

I would highly recommend cleaning the entire intake track off the car to anyone who has this engine! It did wonders for me. I only wish I had done this before I replaced the MAF which cost 150 dollars and didn't fix anything.

On the down side, I now have a problem with my temp sensor or cooling system. :-( VW, not sure they are worth it sometimes. I guess I've had too many Hondas in the past. And I only have 115,000 on the Cabrio. Good luck everyone.

Test the fuel pump
Change fuel filter
And test alternator

check your timeing belt frist . then check your fuel pump.and check your fuelter then check your fuese. 9 time out of 10 when a car die on you while driving its your timeing belt

Your top motor is in the trunk on the drivers side wall behind the panel. Remove the two screws to remove the cover. Check the fluid level in the reservor. Check that no lines have come off of the pump and have someone pushing the top down button while checking. If this is not the problem, then it is a possibility that the e-brake connection is not working right.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b042f

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b04ad

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b02da

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800b0025

there is a cable which locks the shifter and its connected to the brake pedal. You can unclip the cable and try to pull it out like the brake pedal does. if this fails then you will need to remove the floor console to gain access to the other end so it can be replaced. for more info try this link http://forums.vwvortex.com/ there is a forum for the golf 3 platform look for a faq/diy

Sounds like 2 problems. One a low battery. When you used the laptop you might have drained the battery of the vehicle. The alarm sounds like broken wires in door harnesses between the doors and frame. Remove the rubber seal beween the door and body of the car and look for cracked and broken wires. If they are broken or touching it can cause many wierd problems. Once you locate it which is easy you can show a certified mechanic and he or she can repair or replace the harness.

take the shroud cover (plastic around column) off. Where the key goes in at the top it should be completely covered by metal. Where the key was is at the top measure 1/2 inch in take a small punch and punch a hole through the metal very thin metal there will be a retaining spring under the push down on it and pull the switch out

The CD player is a separate system in the trunk. It is NOT an after market CD player.

try changing ur headlight relay

hey
Is it move or does the top seem like it is completely dead? If it is completely dead I would check the connections to your top motor. If it is struggling, your top motor is probably dying. The motor is probably in your trunk under all of the insulation and stuff.