Top 10 2000 Dodge Intrepid Questions & Answers

That is a bleeder, but if you can't get it loose, just start engine with cap off & watch flow, and let air bleed out through top. I usually let coolant circulate through 2 or 3 cycles before I put cap back on. By cycles I mean, when cold, remove cap,start car, TURN HEATER ON, and let it run until it's up to running temperature, then pay attention to temperature gauge, and flow in radiator. When at normal running temperature, you'll eventually see the flow increase in your rad when thermostat opens, and shortly therafter your rad fan will probably start to cool the incoming coolant. Watch for bubbles when flow increases, which is the air bleeding out of the system. Let it do that about 3 times before you put cap on, then take it for a short drive, come back, shut it off and let it sit & cool down again. You may get coolant returning to bottle but that's normal. If your getting excessive or continuous bubbling from rad, it may be indicating a bad head gasket or head, but lets not go there yet.One other thing to try, is if you go for a drive and it starts to heat up, turn your heater on high heat & high fan setting, and see if gauge goes down. If that makes it run cooler, your probaly looking at a new rad.

P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected P0354 Ignition Coil 4 Control Circuit P0204 Injector 4 Control Circuit You need to check injetror wires an coil wires .If good, The new coil my not be good.The Injector my be bad. If good it the ECM Check all fuses.

Before changing a starter, you need to do some testing. First, check that your battery is holding 12v or better. Next, check that there is 12v at the main connection on the starter. Then chjeck that with the key turned to "start" there is 12v at the small terminal on the starter.If not, check the relay that operates the starter.(it may be bad). If readings are good, and block ground and positive cable is connected and clean, replace starter.
To remove starter, disconnect positive cable from battery, unbolt starter, remove harness. Sometimes removal involves twisting unit and manuvering around stuff that's in the way. If you find that does not work, then remove whatever is keeping it from coming out. Yes: it comes out from underneath. (unless you see an obvious clear path to remove from above there is no set rule, just do what's easier) Replacement is the opposite of removal...no tricks. If your radio has an anti theft code, know it before you start or after you are finished it won't work. You will loose settings though.
good luck

Its a lot of work. but if your rdy here we go. if u are not doing this on a hoist be prepared for alot of grunting cursing and swearing.
1. raise the vehicle and put it on jack stands high enough so u can work under it safely
2. disconnect the positive battery cable
3. make sure the steering is loose. What i mean by this is: have the key in the ignition in the acc. position. this allows u to turn the wheels with less effort.
4. remove the front tires
5. remove the center caps from the axle hub.
6. next remove the retaining nutz for the axle shafts.
7. remove both outer-tie rod nuts.
8. using a small sledge hammer hit the mounting point of where the tie rods insert into the hub. not the tie rods them selves
9. next with the ties rods out turn the hub assembly outwards towards your self and remove the axle shaft end from the hub.
10. remove the axle shafts.
point of note: on some axle shaft assemblies there is a retaining clip on the shafts them selves. u must make sure this clip comes out with the shaft when u remove it. if it does not and drops in the transmission. u will be taking the trans. apart to get it out.. not fun
11. next remove the transmission to frame connector.
12. there will be 6-9 13mm bolts that connect the transmission to the engine. remove these
13 . do not separate the transmission yet.
14. disconnect the linkages for the shifter that are to the right when u face the transmission.
15 disconnect the sensor assembly from the transmission. its 3-7 wires that plug into the transmission.
16 at this point look around while u are under there to see if there is anything will will hinder the removal of the transmission. exhaust pipes. oil filter starter, transmission lines.
17 next with a prybar , seperate the transmission gently and rock it side to side to aid the removal.
18 remove the transmission from the can not stress this enough. be carefull. heavy parts can fall and break fingers and hurt you. so take your time.
19. with the transmission out remover and replace the torque converter. when replacing a trasmission always change the coverter with it. they can wear out as well and can cause premature failure of the transmission
20. to assemble, reverse the order.
21 when the transmission is in the car. fill the fluids and check for any leaks.
22 start the vehicle and check again for any abnormal sounds, leaks etc. repair as neccessary.

P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor

P0700 Transmission Control System (MIL Request)

The code P1684 is real easy. The computer is stating that the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.

its probably just grounded wires.. check your car's wiring.. if you can't do that yourself. Have an electrician/mechanic check it for you..

egr valve

Hello. Can any body tell me what is Cmp and Ckp?

Bad bearings could indeed make the noise you are hearing. Are you hearing it only at certain speeds or all the time no matter how fast? CV joints won't make that noise, they will click when you turn your wheels if they are bad. How long have you been driving your car with this noise...if it was just recent then I doubt the transmission could be it.

The best way to check the bearings is to jack up the front end of the car and put it on stands (put jackstands under the car and then lower it with the jack until it rests on the stand fully...NEVER EVER get under a car with it supported only by the jack!), then try to wiggle each front wheel by grasping the bottom and the top of the tire and then pushing and pulling (left hand at 12 o'clock, right hand at 6 o'clock then push with left hand and pull with right hand and vice versa), if the wheel moves at all, you have bad bearings.

CV joints can be easily inspected as well, while the car is up, take a look at the CV boots, these are protective covers that keep dirt out of your joints, they are rubber and are flexible. If you see any type of cracks or breaks in the boots, remove them and inspect the joints for wear; if the grease looks clean (no dirt at all in the grease) you can probably get away with just replacing the boots, but remember to re-grease the joints!

Check your transmission fluid for color and clarity; under the hood you should find two dipsticks; one os for oil and the other is for the transmission. The oil dipstick sits on the side of the engine and goes into the oil pan; the transmission dipstick will come up and out of the transmission; check the level and clarity by pulling the stick and looking at the fluid on the stick. If the level is in the normal range and the fluid looks red and clear, the transmission is fine.

Now, if you prove the bearings are bad, you could do them yourself but I recommend not to try it unless you have years of experience working on cars...I'm not trying to say you can't do it yourself but I am saying you should let a professional do this repair; those bearings take a lot of abuse and should be replaced by an experienced professional.

If you insist on doing this yourself, let me know here and I will walk you through the procedure.

2000 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L SFI DOHC 6cyl



Fig. After the timing chain is installed, the timing marks should be aligned-2.7L engine (click for zoom)

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