1990 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The tach wire tells the computer information it needs to have engine control.Please rate if this was helpful,thank you.

Warrantee on a 1996 model? No way on that. Im assuming it's a GM, but I see volvo in your question? The 4.3 GM engine does not usually have issues like this.

It is possibly your wiper switch.The one one the steering column.You can use a test light to check and see if your getting power to the wiper motor when depressing the wiper switch.If you are not getting power when you depress the switch it is either the wiring or the switch.Hope this helps.Good luck.

If you put it all together correctly your problem may be that you did not adjust the brakes after you installed them. You need to turn the adjusting wheel till the brakes shoes just start to drag against the drum.Usually using a brake tool with the wheel on.

it will need to be properly diagnosed,it can be a gasket,hose,spout,welch plug,drain plug etc etc.best bet is to get the cooling system pressure tested,this will pin point the leak.

take off hose that go to the pump,,blow air in to hose,,to see if they are plugged,,

For the 1990 Chevrolet C1500 454ci = 7.4L V8 = "ss" = "big block"

Click on the the following: direct, Free Link. It has the Serpentine Belt Diagram for the 7.4L (454ci).
I'm not sure what you want on the "wiring" part??

Let me know if this helped, or if you have the additional informations or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/pickup/1990_chevrolet_pickup_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

It is possible it is the clutch safety switch /or that the crank fuse has blown /check fuses and if they are OK then test and see if you are getting power on the solenoid small wire on starter/ when key is in the start position.hope this helps feel free to ask if you should want any further assistance... Thank you.

check fuses and look for a beoken wire

If you pull the aircleaner off and watch the throttle body injectors they dont have anything coming out?
Double check the map sensor and the throttle position sensor?
Computer? I wonder if a wire to the computer has shorted out to ground.

To begin with do some testing. You can have a code scan done at most major parts stores free. You can also do individual component testing using a digital multi-meter and a haynes or chiltons manual for a guide.
(book is about $20) Sounds like possibly a throttle position sensor, or MAP sensor but that's only a guess and if I was working on it I would ALWAYS test before buying anything...with computerized systems it is far too easy to make a mistake if you don't.
The fitting on the trans is likely a vent tube fitting and really should not have a vacuum line attached. (just a hose to nowhere to keep water out)
good luck

check temp sensor is reading low if -35 it is the sensor most likely also look 4 vac leek...

Fuel pressure is a little low, check the pressure regulator, and the fuel filter

It will be marked either "Fuel pump" or "ECM" either it will diable the vehicle. It is not necessary to pull the fuse to change the fuel pump unless, you are indeed trying to diable the vehicle.

If you can afford around 20 dollars US, a Haynes manual for your truck would be a good investment. It will show you how to get your computer to "flash" the codes on your check engine light. The manual will also guide you through repair procedures. The code access is simple once you understand it. Way, Way better to have the book to help you out.The manual will also tell you witch number of flashes equals which malfunction.

Good Luck !!!!!!!!

i would say 153624 sometimes on v engines no is stamped on block

I will assume you really have a G10-20-30 van.(half/ 3/4 or 1 ton full size van)
The fifth digit of your vin should be a G.
Not the 2wheel drive pickup indicated.
That being said, your Gadiator is an aftermarket conversion van with a loose column.
This would have to be a loose tilt bowl on the steering column.
After removing the steering wheel and lock plate, you will find four inverted torx bolts that hold the tilt bowl to the column. Two will be backed way out and loose.Remove these bolts and appy loc tite to the bolt threads, then reassemble.

You can change pick-up coil, you need to remove distributor (mark where rotor is pointing first) Then you need to remove pin in cam gear on end of shaft to remove gear so you can remove shaft from housing. Then you can replace pick-up coil. Install in reverse. Note when removing distributor rotor will move to the right as you lift distributor out, move rotor to right of mark you made when installing distributor back in.

First make sure the rear shoes are properly adjusted. Then try pumping the brake pedal a couple of times and see if it gives you full pedal. If it doesn't then get a helper and pump the brake 2-3 times and then open the bleeder screw. When the pedal sinks to the floor close the bleeder screw BEFORE you let the pedal return to up. Repeat this on each wheel, starting at the farthest from the master cylinder. Do it 2 or 3 times or until the brake fluid comes out in a steady stream. While you are doing this keep the master cylinder full and the cover on. This should give you back your pedal. Hope this helps.

your fan should be on the passenger side just under the dash just on the right side.