1990 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

http://www.automotix.net/autorepair/diy/1992-chevrolet-g20_van-procedure_sb.html

I hope this helps.

I would use the electris set up for a 400,they were availiable in the late 80s and you can still get the parts.The rotor(tone) is different that 700 because inside hole is larger.You can buy a kit from GM to reprogram the cluster to match tire size and ratio.Calibration Kit - 25085515
Re-Programming Kit - 25084374
F-LENS - Clear Instrument Cluster Cover - 16130044

starter jump from big termal to small one shood crank

It is located in the side of the engine block on the passenger side of engine down low, it screws into the water jacket so be prepared to get wet.

your problem may be the fuel pressure regulator,located on the end of the fuel [rack] just before the injectors.the reason the oil pressure jumps is because the motor is'nt running right.spraying starting fluid into it may cause engine damage, such as a blown head gasket,engine piston rings collaspe,it take 180 pounds of pressure from the fuel pump,just to run the engine right. you're problem may be there,or a restriction in the fuel lines, such as sucking air before the fuel reaches the engine, look for a pin hole in fuel line. seen any fuel in parking space? try cardboard under truck at idle, when not in use. suggest also lucas fuel treatment in gas tank, you may only have a blockage in fuel line due to ethanol gas! hope this helps and as always there are online chats,phone support, and e-mail help with fixya.com merry christmas from me and mine to you and yours!!

Check brake fluid levels in both resavors@ master cylinder

If you have never replaced a power window motor before, then I wouldn't attempt this repair yourself. There are too many parts that are easily broken and require special tools. Better to take this to someone that has the tools.

CHECK THE HEADLIGH FUSE AND RELAY.










TIM

Hello failo. Sounds like either the MAF sensor in the wiring harness is having a problem, or your engine wiring harness is simply old, dry and cracked and is shorting out somewhere. Both of these are extremely common and very likely causes.

Unfortunately as vehicles age, the plastic insulation used in the wiring harnesses gets dry and cracks, and then your wires have no insulation.

A good way to test to see if it's the harness or not is to pull each spark plug boot out, one at a time, and just set it on the top of the engine. Then start the car...if you don't see/hear a spark from that boot, then you know the harness is the problem.

A replacement harness and MAF sensor is a common part at the auto parts store. Call around to get the best price. Joe

Use a test light and check which wire has power as you turn on each function. The ground can be checked with an ohm meter . Put one lead of the meter on a clean groung spot on the frame and test each wire with the other lead . The wire that shows infinity or 0 resistance should be groung .

no theat top rounded piece that the shifter goes into screws off pipe wrench works good for the job

while the car is running...the battery should give you at least 14 volts...
if it gives less...you might need to check the alternator...
if the alternator is bad...it wont charge the battery and then the car will die...
if its giving the right amount of volts...
then try to bypass the starter...bring a screw driver and touch the battery terminal on the starter with any ground connection on the vehicle...if it starts...then the starter is not good...if it doesn't start...then you might have a electrical problem...
Good Luck!

Sounds as though you have a short lift hood and and giggle wires going to wiper mot-er while wiper switch is on if it starts that means you have a short. If not replace wiper motor.

Check connections on the starter. If those are good you could have a starter relay going bad. If its not that check your body grounds under the hood and the ground from the engine to the frame. Hope its one of the easier solutions for you. Please rate if this helps. Thank you

should check for blockage remove line try to blow air thru it with air hose

Find the bleed screw on the transmission,fill the reservoir for the master,then bleed it at the master if possible,by push one time to the floor,and shutting the bleed screw ,then do it two to three times,but just push it once,do not pump,then move down to the slave and do the same thing.If this was at all helpful,please rate thank you.

between the air filter and the engine close to the air filter. It measures the volume and density and the temperature of the air,

to whom it may concern, you cant used the harness of 1989 model to 1990 model chevy truck, even the sockets are the same a,b,c,d, thers a big different on wire distribution from the ecu. it better that you find harness on the same model, or if you still not yet finish that problem i will gave you the 1990 ecu diagram on live chat or contact me @ my ym