1990 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

probly leakin down into the plenum--inspect rail and inject system--got pressure issues--secure a haynes repair book or other

MAP sensor, and by the way the fuel pressure is important to this engine which is 9 to 13 psi.

The brakelight fuse and the switch on the pedal is only for the brake lights. It should have no effect on the dash brake light. That light is to alert you that a problem exists in your braking system, not the brake lights. I think you will have to pull off the rear drums and investigate why they are locking up. Check for a leaking brake wheel cylinder that may have contaminated the brake shoes, causing them to grab and lock up. Are the shoes in good shape? Also, check the operation of the emergency brake. Maybe it is not releasing fully. The emergency brake can be adjusted on the cables somewhere underneath the truck, probably at the equalizer (where the cable for the emergency brake splits to both sides of the truck). The adjusting nut will have a lock nut tight against it to hold the adjustment. Loosen the lock nut, then turn the adjusting nut one way to loosen the cable, and the other way to tighten up the cable. You might want to loosen it up and see if that has any effect, and then tighten it once you have fixed the problem. The adjustment would be about right when the emergency brake handle or pedal locks up the rear brakes when it is depressed about halfway to nearly fully depressed. Hope this helps you out, and good luck.

remove the steering wheel and lock plate. You will need a steering wheel puller kit for this.remove the three screws holding the turn signal switch in place.You may need to unplug the turn signal switch under the dash to get enough slack to pull the switch out of the way.Remove the lock cylinder retaining screw.pull out the lock cylinder (you may have to turn the lock cylinder to the run position for it to pull out). Let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to help. Thank you for using Fixya.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

do u want to know location, functions, etc...?

you need the key tumbler or the electrical switch itself ?

if it engages by jumping power to solenoid wire then starter is good. you have a problem with ign switch or nuetral safety switch.

I had the same problem with my 1990 chevy 1500 (350) replaced the plugs and wires no luck. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, still no luck. So i called my mechanic he said it would either be the map sensore or the coolant temp sensor. I didnt figure the coolant temp sensor would cause my truck to flood but it was a 17 dollar part so i gave it a shot, took 10 seconds to switch it out with a 19mil deep socket. Truck fired up and ran like a top no more flooding. =)

Hi, I recommend you test the coil as indicated below. if the coil tests good, test the pickup coil. One or the other is bad.

Fuel Injected Engines
See Figure 1

1. Tag and disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the coil.
2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 1 of the accompanying illustration. Place the ohmmeter on the high scale. The reading should be infinite.

Fig. Fig. 1: Fuel injected engine ignition coil test

1. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 2 of the same illustration. Place the ohmmeter on the low scale. The reading should be very low or zero. If not replace the coil.
2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Step 3 of the same illustration. Place the ohmmeter on the high scale. The meter should not read infinite. If it does replace the coil.
3. Connect the distributor lead and wiring.

PICK-UP COIL

1. To test the pick-up coil, first disconnect the white and green module leads. Set the ohmmeter on the high scale and connect it between a ground and either the white or green lead. Any resistance measurement less than infinity requires replacement of the pick-up coil.

Fig. Fig. 4: Testing the pick-up coil-separate coil

1. Pick-up coil continuity is tested by connecting the ohmmeter (on low range) between the white and green leads. Normal resistance is between 500 and 1500 ohms. Move the vacuum advance arm while performing this test. This will detect any break in coil continuity. Such a condition can cause intermittent misfiring. Replace the pick-up coil if the reading is outside the specified limits.
2. If no defects have been found at this time, and you still have a problem, then the module will have to be checked. If you do not have access to a module tester, the only possible alternative is a substitution test. If the module fails the substitution test, replace it.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONSee Figure 1

1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor as previously described.
2. Disconnect the harness connector and pickup coil spade connectors from the module. Be careful not to damage the wires when removing the connector.

Fig. Fig. 1: Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with silicone lubricant

1. Remove the two screws and module from the distributor housing.
2. Coat the bottom of the new module with dielectric silicone lubricant. This is usually supplied with the new module. Reverse the above procedure to install.

Have you sprayed just a "touch" of starting fluid in the air ram, that takes the air to the throttle body. If you do that & it fires, you have a fuel delivery problem. If that fails, do you have spark?? That can easily be checked, by placing the "inductive arm"over any plug wire, attach to the battery & crank. DON'T worry about timeing, YET. If when the engine cranks, trigger pulled on the timing light & hthe light "flickers", your getting spark. The only thing left then, would be that you could have thrown a timing chain. Removing the oil fill cap, see if using a narrow light, if you can see a rocker arm/ Then have an assistant crank the motor, & see if they move. If that is in accessable, remove a valve cover, lay a towel, cloth over the top of the rockers that contact the push rods, (unless you like an oil bath,,,ha,ha) . But, seriously, then have an assistant crank the motor, NO MOTION= Thrown timing chain.

short to ground in circuit

A/C fuse is under the dash on driver side next to the brake release. My p/u ac compressor has the power wire to it on the top of the compressor and runs through a wiring harness on the passenger side of the engine. There is no visible relay in that line.

With limited information , I would have to say start with checking, all fuses under the dash first.then check to see if its getting fuel , and if theres spark. The easiest way i found to do this is to take the top of the air cleaner off via the wing nut or bolt in the center, set aside ,use a flashlight to look into the tbi unit which looks like a carborator,stand on side of vehicle keep hands and face back as to not get hurt, and have someone turn the engine over, as its cranking there should be fuel squirting into the venturi to go into the engine if not possible bad fuel pump. to check for spark the safest way is to use a spark tester found at your local auto parts dealer or tool store harbor freight for $3.00, you unplug any of your spark plug wires plug it into wire and onto the spark plug, and again have someone crank the engine over, if no spark check all elecrical connections, if good check distributor cap and rotor which is behind the aircleaner, remove the aircleaner housing noting where the hoses went that you unhook set aside, theres two bolts on the sides of the cap i think there either 6 or 7 mm gently pull cap up being careful not to unhook the plug wires, turn sideways so you can look inside youll see silver nubs 6 for 6 cylinder 8 for 8 cylinder should be clean if not replace, also youll notice a plastic disk that spins inside the cap still attached to the distributor should have a small spring like peice of metal in center also should be clean and a little metal tab sticking out one end this should be clean as well , if these are all good then possible bad distributor control module its under the rotor two small bolts hold it in place and it plugs into your wiring harness. to reasseble just start here and read upward. pictures 1st distributor cap and rotor, 2nd is distributor control module, third the air cleaner assembly 4th is the tbi unit

there isn't a fuel filter per say, it is a fuel "strainer". the strainer and the pump are located within the fuel tank.

What seems to be your problem with the truck ?Might be able to help you.

i could poll and instol one for u

Sounds like you may have ruined the piston rings and this is allowing oil to seep in to the combustion chamber hence your smoke. Or if it overheated when you ran out of oil it is possible that you have a bad head gasket now. Check both your coolant and oil for signs, oil will have a white froth, or darkening of your coolant. Hope that helps you.

With a test light check if you have power to the turn signal switch located on the steering colume under the dash if it checks out you have power replace turn sinal switch

check the trailer plug wiring for a short or crushed wires

look at wiring on top of fuel tank at the connection- either ground rotted off or bare wires touching or a crushed connector