20 Most Recent 1986 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

odds are it's not the gauge but the level sensor in the tank that needs to be replaced

check fuel pump.

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
number 1 cylinder is the head that sits furthest forward

stuck float or dash hand need to be fixed meaning sending your cluster out for repair

you may want to chech the wires on the gauge (ground wire ) and terminals cleaned

you should see 6 small allen screws around hub,remove these and outer hub will slide off. then there will be a snap ring around axle remove this and also will be a large ring around outer part of hub and inside the rotor hub. remove this one and hub will slide out

you have internal transmission issues tranny is going to have to come out probably second gear clutch pack burnt up.

no its not

You have to get new gaskets like head gasket, valve cover gasket, water pump gasket. You'll need an alternator, if it has a/c you'll need an a/c compressor; you'll need a serpentine belt.

3/8 hex/allen for the caliper guide pins.

Check the brake switch at the top of the brake pedal arm.

If you have power either you are missing the ground somewhere or the door lock actuators are bad

bad bearings will do strange things, check your front end for play If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

Sounds like possibly the blend door is broken inside the heater box, I would double check and make sure the coolant level is full, if it is I would take the actuator off on the blend door and try and move it by hand and see if it changes

Need more information... Can you hear the compressor clutch kick in when AC is on? Have you checked freon pressure? Oreillys should sell a gauge that attaches to can of freon

The parking brake for an older truck is a cable system.. they do become stretched and MAY need replacing....make sure the emergency brake is OFF....make sure the rear brakes are adjusted as well (tight) as they can be..(takes the "slack" out as much as possible so when you apply the E Brake you are not just taking up "slack"))....Its GREAT to have a buddy to help with this... .. Start at the brake "pedal" in the cab.. make sure the cable is routed correctly and secure at all the connections, .. and the pedal travel is sufficient to move the cables located.under the truck,,if I remember correctly there is one cable coming from the cab to a splitter that branches off to each wheel.. check all the connections and the actuators in the backing plate to see if they are working...its just a matter of taking out.... "the slack".. Good luck, ...please mark as helpful..

you can remove what ever is preventing you from getting the pipe and slave cylinder to line up an start in the thread the fitting should go all the way i finger tight and only use a spanner for the last bit