20 Most Recent 1985 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

As for your choke problem--- Check for blown fuse under dash labeled as choke. If ok then check for faulty fuseable link at starter.

Ignition module and/or pickup coil in distributor may be the concern.possible coil as well.

Using a test light, and with the ignition key in the "On" or "Run" position check for full battery voltage at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil, and then check for full battery voltage at the wire connector to the distributor for the wire that runs between the (+) positive side of the ignition coil and the distributor. (dis-connect the wire connector from the distributor to test) If full battery voltage is present at the (+) positive side of the ignition coil but not through the ignition coil to the distributor then replace the ignition coil. If full battery voltage is present at both the ignition coil and the distributor then remove the ignition module from the distributor to have it tested and most auto part stores will test it for you for free. The ignition module is what generates the signal that the ECM uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, and be certain that the ignition module is installed into the distributor using a silicone grease or some other die-electric compound to completely cover the metal mounting surface of the ignition module because it is a heat-sink, and be careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it can be damaged. There is also a hall-effect switch inside of that distributor that would be the next suspect if the ignition module tests out alright, and if there is no spark there is a pick-up coil/stator assembly that could be faulty and if that is the case then replace the entire distributor because the distributor will have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace the pick-up coil/stator assembly.

it can be fuel based issue. Check for fuel pump pressure and more important VOLUME. There is a strainer on the pickup in the tank, and it will restrict in the method that you describe. This screen situation can cause false fuel pump diagnosis.

Also look for inline filters along the fuel line from tank to fuel pump

no it should last a long time unless you have a short or a large sterio whitch pulls a lot of amps or you could have a bad battery or dirty terminals @ the battery could use more info also alternator could just have gone bad how many have you gone thru?

if the light for 4wd does not come on it could be that a vacume line has cracked or become seperated from the ball under your battery listen under hood for a hiss, my hisses usually come from somewhere around the heater box where the lines join together on the way to the ball or the vacume ball may be bad the front wheels will not enguage without vacume applied as vacume pulls the locks in. The xfer case is working if it turns the short driveshaft

I would have the carburator checked/replaced because while the lines look good, it may not be giving the engine the right amount of gas it needs to do anything above 25.

This vacuum diagram is for a 2.8L federal spec vehicle with manual transmission

You need to have the aluminum knocked off the bottom mounting plate,if it isn't,so you can remove the cap on the idle adjusting screw.
About 1 and 3/4 turns out.from seated, will be close, to getting it running and thru inspection.
About 12 degrees on initial timing. (I know it says 10)

I only rebuild my OE Carbs,never use a replacement
Is yours an Electrical California Version?

Also check that the coke is open when warmed up
May have to drill out rivets and tap for screws, on the coils cover,then adjust, to get it open

I would say that the problem is going to be under the hood in the steering somewhere. Not in the steering column. Check to make sure that the tie rods are not pulling or pinching a wire.

Odd one,sure the fuse labeled inj is ok? Also pull the dist. cap check for side to side play at the rotor shaft,if the bushing is worn out the pickup coil won't work right.While you're there,crank it and make sure the rotor is turning(ie timing chain of shaft gear failure)

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For the 1985 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer:
I do not know if you have the 2.5L L4 or the 2.8L V6, however I have included both below....

For the 2.5L In-Line 4-Cylinder:
Firing Order:
1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Cylinders:
(back)
'..4..'
'..3..'
'..2..'
'..1..'
(front)
Distributor:
...(back)
.....(+) - screw
2.........1
4.........3
.....(+) - screw

For the 2.8L V6:
Firing Order:
1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6
Cylinders:
....(back)....
'.5..........6.'
'.3..........4.'
'.1..........2.'
....(front)
Distributor:
.....(back)
.....3....4.(+) - screw
..2...........5
(+).1....6
.....(front)
Let me know if this helped......

Never, never, never use 100% water in a cooling system. Always. always, always add 50/50 antifreeze/water solution so that the CASTING pluggs don't rust or freeze (they are NOT freeze pluggs). If it froze with water in it you have a 75% chance that the motor is junk; 25% chance that you can fix it by replacing the CASTING plug. I drill a small hole in them and screw my sliding hammer in and pop them out (nearly impossible in the vehicle). Adding water to a cooling system is NOT cost effective. Ray (garage owner)

you will have to take it to the shop and get your carb ajusted

well i have the same blazer and my transfer case is messed up...the older model chevys had alot of problems with the t-case because the chain inside them grinds against the inside of the t-case and will cause a hole and once there is a hole u have to get a new one its not fixable :( sorry but u will just need to buy a new one or get a new chain for the t-case u will just have to get it looked at because it might not have a crack or a hole in the case shell but if it does you will just need a new one

well im a big guy but i still just crawled under it and its right beside your oil pan it has two bolts unscrew them and and unscrew the wires on it there should be two wires on one part and one on the other part.

The carb base heater is to ensure the carb does not ice up during cold weather driving. It also helps with emission control by heating up inlet air. You can bypass the heater as it is not essential to engine running but may lead to increased emissions and poor cold weather running.

Cause is air in brake lines, correction is to bleed the rear brakes. Get a buddy to pump the pedal then open the bleeded scres on the rear wheels one at a time. Do this on each wheel 3 or 4 times and see if it gets better. Be sure to keep the brake fluid full, as you pump the pedal the fluid will go down.

its likely the pushrods for the rockerarms are gummed up
with crud , not allowing oil tp pass thru , they are hollow.
You could remove and soak them in solvent and use a
wire to clean them out or replace them.