1984 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Take the ground wire - and positive wire + off. Get a replacement cable, take the nut off the holds the cable to the starter. Install the new cable on the starter, then install the other end to + of the battery. Finally install ground wire - on the battery. Please rate my answer so I am rewarded points for it.

relay on firewall

Possible that the engine oil, filter or the belts are in need of a change. it is best to take a code check to confirm, make sure that since the error is indicated the preventive care must be taken so as to avoid a major breakdown.

At the very rear of the engine behind the intake manifold just to the drivers side of the distributor on the machined lip of the engine block. Here is a picture of the sensor. You will need a special socket to remove it.

The Vortec engine has an integrated engine management - so there is no accelerator fuel pump which means that the rapid movement of the pedal would have normally no effect on the fuel delivery.
If it does then the pedal position sensor in the throttle body is failing and it will have to be replaced. There have been numerous versions of Vortec engines, in numerous displacements - each comes with a specific throttle body. If you don't know the exact version of your engine it will be better to go to your local repair shop to find out the exact model of the body and have it replaced

can you hear the pump when you turn the key on?

If I remember right it is a single wire and it is on the passenger side inside under the dashboard.

Did you check the start solenoid? Find and check it to make sure it passes voltage when you turn the key.

Thanks for your question.

You cannot verify the operation of the air conditioner based on the line temperatures. You should invest in a set of AC pressure gauges to assist in troubleshooting the system. The pressures of the refrigerant will allow you to narrow down the problem.

if the engine belongs to the same family it will fit, its just a matter of rewiring the harness to suit the recepient car

I'm sure it can be done, but i believe some fabrication will be involved as 1965 and 1967 Chevrolet pick-ups are dissimilar vehicles.

sounds like there is a freeze plug that has rusted thoeough, or possible that a gasket has gone bad. but the unlikely problem is a cracked block, this is not good

Whoever wired the remote starter didn't wire one of the output wires to the wire from the ignition switch that goes to the heater controls.

Check you fuel pump and you inline fuel filter. You are not getting enough gas to the carburetor. Some fuel pumps are located in the gas tank while others are attached to the engine block. Depending on the age of the truck. The gas filter may be under the car close to the gas tank or inside the engine compartment attached to the gas line, It may be best to take it to a auto parts store and have them look it up or point it out for you if you are unsure where they are located.,.

Lock as in the latch like it is supposed to do? If it does not lock in there then the latch may be broke or full of gunk. I can't tell for sure from here.

Or lock as in the belt not pulling out farther? If thats the case then the ratchet mechanism may be bad. But belts don't always lock like that. Some are designed to lock from a sudden movement like when in a crash and the person suddenly moves forward. If you can pull on the belt quickly and it locks its fine. If not then you need to replace the belt assembly as there are no service parts for them.

no problem let me grab a screen shot of it for you

it states that there is no timing adjustment, unless you have a modus or some kind of high end scan tool you wont be changing the timimg.

The freeze, core or expension plugs are located on both sides and front and read of the block. Depending on what you're working with determin how many. For instance, my 89 350 will have two on each side of the engine block, two on the rear behind the flexplate (one on each bank) and two on the front (one on each bank).

Connect a Test Light between the ground wire on the light socket (bulb holder) and somewhere on the body (a clean/bare metal surface) and then put the transmission in reverse.
If the Test Light lights up, you have a bad ground (broken wire, bad/corroded connection). If it doesn't then use a Multimeter to check for power on the Positive side of the Socket, No or Low voltage means a bad wire. Battery voltage is generally 12.45 (without the engine running) and 14.5 (with the engine running) So if you're getting less than that (by more than .3) you have a poor connection or damaged wire

Any service engine light? May be a bad shift solenoid which are located inside the transmission pan.
Check for code(s) and come back with them.

There's a bad ground somewhere in the circuit. Because this is a very old truck, check the ground wire from the ignition switch to the frame, and so on. Check ground from neg on battery to the engine, and also chassis. The more ground the better... :)