1984 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

What year and engine size?

Had it acted up before this ? Any recent work done on it ? Will the engine turn over at all ?

I have a 90 chevy k1500 350 tbi with same problem! I have traced problem to... after turning on key fuel pump kicks on when u crank it over injectors shoot gas and truck starts! After few seconds injectors stop spraying and truck dies! This can happen many times over and over! Eventually sometimes truck stays running and all is great! I changed ignition module, oil pressure sending unit (which i was told controls gas after vehicle is running) fuel filter, computer, fuel pump relay, I am at a loss now! Hope this helps and hope someone can help me!

When it starts does the oil pressure gauge rise. TBI's use a signal from the oil pressure sender to keep the fuel pump running.

Going on the information you have provided it sounds to me like the fuel pressure regulator.It is located unthe intake manifold and is a lenghty job to do and is exspensive to have done.If you have a good mechanical ability it can be done by yourself in about 4-5 hours.and cost about $100 bucks.

this is an evap emissions code dealing with a bad evap canister purge valve or purge valve solenoid. To test for these most mechanics will use a smoke test to find where the leak (if any) is located.

The auttomatic idle module is nor workong

Clean the mass air flow meter.

That is the filter bypass valve. If the oil filter plugs up then oil pressure opens the valve to let unfiltered oil back into the engine so it won't destroy the engine.

A shorted diode in the alternator will draw down the battery.

Chilton Manual will have the diagram you need.. You can get them at most auto parts stores.

get a test light and see if you have power at the bulb plug, yes there is a fuse for lights ....find it and check it... I had 3 chevy/gmc trucks and they all had two fuse boxes one under dash one over drivers front fender well... check for power at fuse/relay (pull the fuse out connect your test light to a ground - one side of the fuse socket should have power (with light switch on) if it doent it is probably the switch at the dash... 0

The 2007 and up Avalanche, Escalade, Trailblazer, and other GM trucks changed the design of the bottom of the steering shaft. For no discernible reason, it has a horseshoe cup at the bottom of the shaft that prevents just sliding the old sensor off and putting the new one on like in 2006 and previous models. Therefore the entire steering column has to come out of the truck which is, to say, highly annoying. Disconnect battery and ground negative lead cable to the frame or leave disconnected for 10 minute to discharge ABS system. Pull steering wheel ABS cover - 2 small alan wrench holes on either side of the airbag, spring-loaded, pull gently while turning the wrench. Disconnect both airbag clips (don't lose the retaining clips!) and remove airbag. Remove lower plastic knee trim (where your knee or shin would touch at the bottom of the kick panel). Disconnect all steering shaft electrical connectors - there's quite a few. Under steering column, unbolt upper driveshaft 15mm nut. Remove 4 16mm steering wheel nuts. Pull steering wheel out of car, lay on bench. Remove steering wheel shaft upper protective sleeve (the part that has the horseshoe end shape that prevents the SWPS from sliding off when you're trying to remove it that serves no useful purpose except to turn a 15 minute job into an hour and a half of irritation). Gently unclip 3 retaining clips of SWPS rear cover (4 o'clock, 7 o'clock, and 12 o'clock on the shaft), slide off, then get a screwdriver in behind the old sensor and gently move it backwards a little so you can get your fingers on it, then slide it off. Put new sensor on exactly the way the old one was on. Note, DO NOT remove pin until this assembly is back in the car and connected to the electrical harness. Slide SWPS cover back onto shaft but do not clip into place. Put steering wheel back in car, connect all bolts and wire harnesses. Remove pin. Re-install plastic cover. Start car, drive to dealership, hook up to Tech 2 and have them run the full SWPS re-learn procedure, which they will probably charge you an hour of labor for anyway, then take your half hour of saved labor money and go buy yourself lunch. Alternately, save several hours of cursing, make a turkey sandwhich at home to save eating out lunch costs, and let dealer do the whole thing.

Okay it says you checked starter motor and it tested good. what test did you perform? A bench test would tell you if solenoid is good or bad. Try this With starter in vehicle and key on, jump positive power to solenoid it should spin and engage flywheel and start vehicle

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If I were to wager a guess, I'd say that it could be an ABS trouble code.

a chevy , toyota.? and no year, nor country sold, making any exact answer impossible. to a fault. wow, cool ride. v8 engine in a tiny toy body or dinky enigne pulling a 5000 lead chevy. ok, some cars , even same year it's and optional part. the FSM tells you where it is and how to replace it. if pressent many are changed buy removing glove box door. alldata.com, open chapter HVAC and read. it can only be in 1 place, mostly, and that is the heater A/C junction box point. just look there, and see it. what you have, can vary . no country stated. some export chevys, have export HVAC system. same at toyota in spades. japan toys, or usa built toys are DIFFERent in many ways. and HVAC is one.

why not all spark plug wires, they dont last the life of any engine. and cap and rotor. finish the full 60,000 tuneup and dont skip parts. is this hard? stalls can be caused by many a thing the EFI works real hard to stop all stalls, and does so very well in 1996, (not now, due to throttle by wire BS) 96 cars are the best cars ever made, all of them. it has OBD2 scan tool support. making it 10x easier to fix. ever used a scan tool even a $9 fleabay tool works 100% on 19965 cars. Get one. Now we do stalls. (engine size stated so will use generic answers)

1. Lost 12vdc to the EFI system. (see scan tool go, NON COMM, at stall? and dash lights go dim or head lights go dim? ) easy this.
2. EGR valve stuck open (if you have one) is #1 cause of EFI stalls.
3. next is never doing a real 60k tuneup ever. so common we like to use crying towels. really. so sad to watch the pull gas tanks and pumps all for the lack of simple tuneup and simple tools.
4. Gross Misfiring, any mech can drive the car and hear it and feel it.
5. loss of fuel pressure. (bogs then stalls and no misfire shaking)
6. Gross flooding. (many causes, we look for black spark plug tips. and other scan tool tests. (fuel trim )
7. Ever scan it for DTCs at the stall?
8. Ever scan it ever? for any DTCs ever? of any kind?
9. serious engine problems, lost compression. (any cylinders or all)

there are tests for each one. we do engine first spark then fue after a real 60k tuneup and it stalls. still. no fuel can burn with no spark no spark can run a bad engine.

Hi EDAGRDO,there are some pictures showing the oil filter location ,maybe can help you.

Buy a cheap toggle switch wire it in line on ignition wire under the dash mount it were it's not visible so only you know