1983 Chevrolet C1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

look for shaking of the fuel line at the carburetor . If it shakes while moving it could causing a vapor lock. also, when it stall , you might have to check the fuel delivery at the carb. open the connector and see if fuel is being delivered, when it stalls. . This is very dangerous. so be careful , because today's gas is explosive, not only flammable. Did you have the fuel pump pressure tested./ A local parts store can probably give you the psi it should have when cranking the engine. I used to use a clear gas filter before the carb. and when mine stalled, I quickly jumped to see if there was fuel in it. And last but not least least, does it stall on one tank or on both tanks.? e.

Hi Loren, My name is Randy and I'm going to try and help you with your problem, But I will need some more information from you. First did you by chance not bolt the torque converter to the flexplate or flywheel? Next Linkage is it installed on the trans and working properly. And what was the reason for pulling the transmission in the first place? Please get back to me maybe we can get your problem solved Thanks Randy. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/randall_d932ef6e01588b0f

Mine did that and it was vapor lock. I wrapped a 3/8th piece of copper tubing around a 3" iece of pipe and made a coil and slipped it up onto my a/c dryer and put insulating foam tape over it. connected my fuel line from fuel pump and to carb and when I turn my a/c on it cools my fuel. Worked for me in Houston Tx.

8 degrees at about 550 rpm with four wire connector near distributor disconnected. Check Engine Light will reset all by itself after restarting the motor again

trying to reinstall a pump.. try lining the pump up with the engine pulleys and then see which way the brackets go there are 2 a front and back..

Look at the vin # from outside the car through the windshield on the bottom of the drivers side. The 8th digit in the vin # is the engine code. You should be able to look it up on the internet. I want to say 175hp but i'm not certain. It is usually a letter. For example a small block 350 for certain years is the letter M and I believe small block 305 is P.

You might be able to get to it from under/ between the grill,,Look for sprig & witch way it's loaded ; )SS

Does it have catalytic convertor? If so, it sounds like it is getting plugged up. Solution, buy a new convertor, or punch out the old one and keep driving. I did the latter.

use a jumper cable and hook it to the ground side of your battery and then to your fender. i think you have lost whats called your chassis ground, it needs this for the light

CHECK POWER COMING TO THE SWITCH YOU REPLACED

Look for the fusible links and look for a burned battery cable on the passenger's side under the hood. The alternator might have fried while trying to charge the system with a shorted hot lead. There's some cooked wires somewhere that will need to be replaced.

There is no switch. What you have is a "transfer pump" that moves fuel from the rear tank to the front tank as required, so that you get a smooth declining indication of fuel left on the gauge in the dash.

If the transfer pump goes bad, any fuel in the rear tank will not be pumped to the front tank so you'll only be running on the front tank.

The fuel level indicator is on the front tank, so the gauge will still accurately register the amount of fuel in the front tank.

I don't think you can get a rear end that high sped, the best I've ever seen is a 3.2 something . I had that with a 305 and my engine revved higher than 2200 with that. I think you would be better off with a 700R4 transmission from the early-mid 80's. It should bolt on and the overdrive works off an electric/vaccuum switch mounted on the firewall. Hope this helps.

not sure what you are hooking up...if you are putting on new spark plug wires...locate the distributor...usually marked #1 and goes in clockwise circle...firing order for the V8 is 18436572...hope that helps...usually changing one wire at a time is best...to not confuse the firing order...

your best bet is to remove the grill and reach in to release it

you probably burnt out your starter solenoide/look for starter wire in back of it,that may have came loose-hope that helps

It's depends on the engine but most 1980s v8 the firing order is: 18436572

all you need to do is listen to hear the tank switching valve is working. It will make a soft noise under the rear cab section with the key on with the engine off. zif you do hear it sounding the switch your tank unit for that one tank you try to switch to is a fault. Sorry no illustrated diagrams are on hand, just knowledge

well it could be yellow left green right but they could also be coded for different thickness sometimes they use colour to determine thickness but when you put it back you should have a backlass setting of general around 15 thous then put some hard grease on pininon and crown should have contact in center of gear face

lifter will produce a tapping noise
banging if loud is the crank bearings