20 Most Recent 1985 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

it will be located by the #1 spark plug on the driver side header. the sensor itself has a socket connection that plugs into the wiring. all you'll need to do is remove the old one, and plug in the new one!

Not sure which one is number 2 but the knock sensor will be about in the middle of the engine block on both sides of engine. May only be one on the engine.

As long as the motor mount line up the engine will swap out ok but you may have to change the ECM for the truck or reprogram the one you have. In addition be sure the tranny will bolt up and the drive shafts are the same length.

There should be a diagram under the hood with the routing on it for the vacuum lines.

Could be a chevy Montana i guest but not sure..

It is a 1994 just behind the letter T

You are going to see 2 lines on your transmission take them off and it is going to the radiater thake them of two and replace it refil your transmission o?l start your engine check for leaks put your transmission in drive wait for 5 seconds and put it back in park and check for o?l leak job done...

is there any check engine light on?

Typically the reason is too much load. You can measure it or pull some of the load items off the circuit. DO you have high performance headlights? One approach is to use a relay to power them. Then the load through the headlight switch only controls the relay, at negligible load..

For some reason, too much fuel is getting through your system. Some people refer to this as "running too rich". Burned valves, timing could be off, lots of things can cause this. It may be time to have your timing chain replaced.

Is the compressor seizing causing a strain on the motor and the engine to die? What is the base idle when the AC is not on?

Attached to the side of the throttle body It will be black and round and have a 4 pin connector

Could be coils,tune up,fuel filter,crankshaft sensor.

Yes, it could be connected. If you run an engine with straight pipes, there will be no back pressure from the exhaust system, and the gas flows very fast out of the engine past the exhaust valves. This will cause the valves to heat up more than the manufacturer's spec and could burn the valves. This in turn will cause loss of power. Overheated valves will cause the valve stem seals to harden and even to disintegrate, causing slight smoking from the tailpipe. The oil pressure is a sticky toffee. If you have enough oil in the engine, you should have equal pressure at either low or high speed, unless you have a dicey oil pump, or oil level is low, causing the pump to lower the level in the sump or cavitating (sucking in air with the oil).

What speed and what gear? Take notice, because it could be doing at a certain RPM. People tell me it does it on the high way. But I find it does it all the time, just at a lower hum/whine, or vibration.

Under the truck on the very back of the transmission/tail piece.

I wouldn't be surprised! Car manufacturers love making customers spend their money for nothing!

It isn't the PCM. You most likely have a bad, dirty, or plugged mass air flow sensor. The cam position sensor is also a notorious failure, so that's a possibility. Most likely it is that the MAF sensor has caused an evaporative emissions systems error, and the engine timing is one of the things the PCM tries to adjust to meet compliance with the air/fuel/spark requirements to run cleanly. If it can't adjust the timing enough to correct it, then the cam position sensor will attempt to operate out of its limits, setting that code. Check your MAF sensor. Clean it or replace it, reset the codes, and drive it. If there is another problem, it will tell you.