20 Most Recent 1985 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Not sure which design carb you have but here's a rule that works for all carbs. Attach the vacuum advance hose to any port coming from the carb baseplate (bottom). If you don't have a free one, you can use a "T" in another line or if there's a fitting on the manifold you could use that as well. Just make sure that the line has full vacuum at idle. (check with a vacuum gauge or just put your finger over it and feel for vacuum) Since it's pretty old, it would be good to put your finger under the advance mechanism when you attach the line (running) and make sure the small rod that goes into the distributor moves when you do that. if it does not, then the advance diaphragm is bad and you will need to replace it. Use small rubber plugs to block off any unused ports.
As for the fuel line. You should have a threaded inlet on the fuel bowl. The line attaches there. If you need to make a line, you can get one from any parts house, cut it to length and use rubber fuel hose to join it together with the one already on the fuel pump. When running new line, keep it away from exhaust manifolds, belts and pulleys. Best to put an in-line filter in the hose....that will keep the carb clean. If it's a four barrel (doubtful for that engine) you would need a fuel rail that joins both carb inlets to the single line from the pump.
If you have a problem understanding this, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.

with some one operating switch back and forth and you under truck you should fell and hear a click sound if not cecck power and ground truck need not to be running to do test

The problem with emissions is there are so many things that can help out a little or a lot, Have you had the car checked for any issues with the exhaust such as 02 sensors, converters, muffler, charcoal canister. Try using a higher octane gas that will burn better, this will create a leaner exhaust and also install plugs that will create a hotter spark to ignite the gas during combustion. Here in SC we don't have the emission laws and it's not used as freq. as other states. Good Luck. By the way. I work for Bosch which makes the 02 sensors and I suggest buying the aftermarket because these are built and made the same but the OEM is 2x's as high if not more.

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Bad relay or fuel pump based on what your saying. But its hard to diagnose will little info provided. It can be other things as well.

yes it will help but so would the tierod ends and prob a drag link just do them as your budget allows gota love them old chevys tho

For 1985 GMC K 1500 P/U 5.7 liter V-8 check...




Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

Since you have the manual, I recommend you check the parts that are easy to check. For example, can you get to the resistor? The resistor is in the middle between the motor and the control panel. If you have a multimeter, you can probably diagnose the problem right at the resistor connector. I couldn't find Scotsdale, so I don't know if I have the right wiring diagram. Maybe you have the right one in your manual. Either way, I'm going to use the one below to describe troubleshooting, and hopefully you can apply the process even if your wires are a little different.
The way the switch works is to power one of the three wires to the resistor by connecting the input power on the brown wire to one of the other three. So, at the resistor connector, if your switch is working, and the key is on, the voltage in each of the connector terminals should be 12 volts when the switch is on that setting. Find a good chassis ground point to use for your negative meter lead. With the fan on low, the brown wire should be hot. On medium, it is the light blue wire, and on high, the orange wire. That's it for testing the switch. If the power is there, the switch is good. If that's good, plug the connector back into the resistor. Now probe the orange wire from the back by sticking your meter probe in next to the wire. With the key on, the orange wire should have different voltages as you change the settings. On, low, it should have only around 4 volts, etc. If there is no voltage at the orange wire with the switch on medium or low, the resistor is bad. If voltage is getting out of the orange wire on all settings but the blower doesn't turn, the blower is bad. Please let me know if you have questions.

Distributor turns counter clockwise and firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Should also be stamped on intake manifold in front of carb.

check your fuses if you havent already

check out the alternator...it might be that the alternator doesn't charge the battery and then the battery dies on you so the truck doesn't start...
and sometimes the ignition switch goes bad...try to shake it when trying to start the car...if it starts then thats the problem...
good luck!

what you have is worn out and useless tie rod end, it will need replacing, have the entire front end checked and an alignment done

The problem could be behind the fuse block. Distribution wire could possibly be broken.

on the firewall with the other relays under the hood near the battery, it'll have a light green wire as the sme color as the wire that hooks to the horn. The fuse is in the under dash fuse panel. if the fuse is good you can repeated ly hit the horn button and listen for or feel by touch the relay as it clicks. The horns fail more often than the relay and the relay will work to run other things so it could be removed if the rely was used for thre fuel pump or something else.

if you can not find a diagram in the immediate area under your hood contact the location you purchased your new belt they will be able to provide you with this information for free and likely print it out for you, or purchase/obtain a Chilton or other service manual from your local parts suppler the information will defiantly be identified under belt replacement within.
good luck

Hi nuclear.
First thing that I thought of here is a bad ground from the battery to the body.
Hook a wire up between the negative battery terminal and to a good body ground, firewall preferably, and see if that cures your problem.
If it doesn't give me a reply and we will track it down.

KL

the frame is most likely bent. to your knowledge, has it ever ben in an accident?

my suggestion would be a 600 cfm edelbrock these are low maintence good driveability carburetors and good price on them. I assume you are running a 350 v8?