1981 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Either shifter needs adjustment or the gear is worn. I recommend bringing it to a transmission repair shop. The shifter adjustment is a bit of a pain and I would hate to have you go threw all that trouble only to find out its the gear .

Check wiring for tach off distributor. The wires get dry and crack and now you have an open.

Its either a short or the switch is defective. Remove switch from electrical connector and use an ohm meter to test their resistance.
If resistance is high replace switch.

hi

this is because
1.there is some blockage in the line comin up and to sides.
2.the selector switch is not properly functioning. the flaps got stuck and it may allows only air to pass through the floor vents.


please vote me if my answer was useful to you.

check all ur fuses as a first step, should be under the drivers side of dash, usually the most common fault, if not check for power at the unit itself

Look in the fender wells and see what access that gives you

Check the fuse to see if it is blown,be sure to have the head lights on,and the dash dimmer on all the way bright,when checking the fuse,if it is not blown,check the fuse to see if it has voltage on that fuse,if it does not,then replace the head light switch.If the fuse has voltage to it,then either a bad connection at the cluster,or the bulbs are burned out in the cluster.

Are you saying vehicle is running on 2 barrels?
Time for a rebuild if thats the case. Kinda strange that secondaries are not opening. Make sure likages are not binding. Thats the only time I've ever seen that linkages binded.

Visually inspect horn make sure its not corroded and wiring is on it tight. Then use a voltmeter and when horn button is depressed 12v should register on the meter. If 12v are there and horn doesn't sound the horn is defective. If 12v does not make it there then its either the relay or clock spring (located inside steering wheel) most likely. A visual inspection should pretty much do it with the clock spring (corrosion ,wear of contacts). Relay must have B+ going to it at all times and coming out only when horn is depressed. good luck

Usually the blue wire from the stereo is for the remote amp and/or power antenna. If you haven't cut off the stock radio plug, I would check into getting a stereo harness adapter for the stereo. Most auto stereo shops can get them.

low on brake fluid

The relay has to get power from the key switch to operate, so either a protection fuse has blown, or the key switch is faulty.

You would get the correct carburetor instead for electronic computurized controlled carbs will not work on a 1981 Corvette

If the preload is too tight where the pittman arm attaches to the valve it will turn on it's own.It's been a long time but...I'm sure there is a screw very near the pittman arm on the valve assembly,loosen it a little at a time untill it steers normally.If you get it too loose the assist feels "sloppy" or "jerky"

I would ahve the alternator tested to see if it was bad first, if so I would replace it and see if that improves your choke situation. If the alternator is not putting out enough voltage it can affect other systems in you car including an electric choke system.

There is an inline fuse,and relay for the horn behind the center instrument panel.If the fuse is good then follow the dark green wire from the relay to the horns.You can ohm the wire to see if there is an open circuit from the relay to the horns.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Check the hall effect switch in the distributor. That will cause this problem for no spark

because the car thinks its stolen you need to goto a garage i dont think a keyless entry was available on it so that wouldnt help

If you have no power to anything, such as headlights
radio/wipers etc. The fusable link at the starter may
have fried. Try using a jumper wire from the battery connection on the alternator to the + post on the batt.
If you get you're power back, replace the link wire.
It's a rust colored wire on the battery con. at the solenoid.They somtimes have a yellow tag with the amp rating. This was a fairly common problem back
in the day. Also check for any shorted wires that may
have caused the link to pop, and make sure the alt.
starter and battery connections are clean and tight.
Hope this helps.

If not under your hood then i would suggest getting a GM. repair manual.