20 Most Recent 1989 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Not sure I understand your question,assuming the new shafts are the same length etc as the old ones.

have your back fuel pressure regulator checked. It allow return pressure to fuel tank.

yes,it would not be the same,you have a 6 cylinder,and a 8 cylinder.They are not the same.

linkage is out of adjustment or your speed sensor is bad

YOU WOULD HAVE TO CHANGE THE TAILSHAFT

it should be under the driver side dash. you will have to put the seat back as far as you can and lay on your back to see it.

Hi


Thank You for using FixYa. Kindly follow the instructions: Put the car in neutral, have your foot on the brake, switch it out of 4LO and wait up to 10 seconds or so. If this doesn't work, put it in drive or reverse, move a foot or two, then put it back into neutral and try again. I bet it will work. If you're not in neutral, the drive train is still being torque by the engine. If your foot isn't on the brake, I think it electrically prevents the switch out of 4 LO from happening. If it is stuck in, I might suggest you've got gearbox windup. Jacking up a front wheel might let it come undone.

If the actuator still sticks, I think there's an override on the transfer case. It has a dial with positions. You'll need a 1/2" Ratchet to work it.
Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

ok then. the E-brake cable is not broken just stuck, the cables tend to get rusted and thgis happens all the time,What you can do is go under the truck and manualy pull the cables rear of the truck this should release the brake.
As for the four wheel drive the E-brake has nothing to do with it. on the transmissions transfer case there should be a switch or a manual lever that a cable hooks to this is most likly your four wheel drive problem unless you have locking hubs where you have to pysicly get out and lock the hubs at the wheel then the locking hubs may be worn broken or bad.

88 to 92 or 93

Follow the wires back farther and they should come to a factory connection that you can snap apart. The connection should be under the bed between rear bumper and before the rear axle. And grind the srew off, drill it out, or something along that lines.

It may need a tune up,and check the cap,rotor,and wires,and a additive,for fuel contamination.

Rear differential is toast, either have a pinion gear that has had the teeth sheared off or a broken axle shaft or could have also stripped the splines for the axle shaft.

you turn the adjusting bolt several turns at a time move vehicle back and forth measuring space in between the fender and tire until desired hieght is achieved.

Here's the site that I came across:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-56.htm?once=true&

and here's what it's suggesting for a chevrolet from 1989:

13 Open Oxygen Sensor Circuit 33 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit (High Signal) 42 Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Circuit

Begin at both ends...work towards the middle. What I mean by this is first, you changed the fuse...was it blown? is there power at both fuse ends and past the fuse?
Is there power at the bulb contacts in the sockets at the rear? are the sockets properly grounded? Is there power at the lead coming out of the light switch that supplies the tail lights? Are there any connectors underneath the vehicle and are they in good condition and have power?
You can use a basic test light to do the testing but I suggest you use a volt meter, as it not only tells you that power is there but how much as well. One good thing about working on that vehicle is that there are no "magic modules" in the system and wiring goes where it's supposed to, without any "side trips". Therefore tracing it out is fairly simple. Since there are no computer issues to worry about, often you can run a new wire from the last place you find power (providing the switch is working) right to the light harness in the rear, as long as you cap off the original wire so you don't make a potential place for a short to happen.

Does the end of the shaft next to the diff feel loose or is it just the cv shaft? Usual problem is the cv shaft at one of the 2 knuckles inside the rubber boots

one goes by the thermostst housing and the other goes in the intake maifold toward the rear

there a valve behind the dash which connected to the heater switch allow the hot antifreeze from the engine to flow to the heater core and back to the engine, check and make sure the linkage still connected to the valve. the valve work like a regular water faucet nobs in your home which open and close; over period of time the valve get seized up. inside of the valve is made out of rubber, heat and time cause it to seized up because the valve is not use on regular basis causing to seized up. the valve is cheap and easy to replace once you get to it. being 1989 i would go ahead and pull the old one out and replace it with the new one...im surprised the valve hold up this long if its original.

The Blinkers and the Brake Lights are the same bulb. So check the brake light switch. Flashers use a different flasher unit, than the turn signals