20 Most Recent 1989 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

yes it does an it should be on your driver side by the gas tank or the chasis of the car. it could be water an dirt in the filter an it just finialy froze just a pitch out there

didnt state where u live --look up online or local yellow pages for automotive machine shop--speed shop --high school-auto college or get in touch with an auto club [if this is for a normal build not a custom or race build a new one might be cheaper and less down time

there r two hoses for high pressure hose u will need either a 5/8 & or a 19mm flare hut wrench (tubing hose wrench)for low pressure hose use side cutter pliers to cut two clamps off at either end of hose, will need new low pressure hose and two clamps. don't forget to re-fill with proper p/s fluid

See if all the plugs are getting spark and if there may be water in the gas try then putting some gas in the carb and firing it up or have someone look ito the carb and open or close it when you start it. good luck!

WEll, essentially you remove the yoke and replace the seal. The issue, however, is that there is a ONE TIME USE crush sleeve that needs to be replaced, between the two pinion bearings. Then the yoke is retorqued to a specified tightness, crushing the sleeve and everything works. If you do not replace the crush sleeve, you will be too tight on the bearings when you retorque, causing bearing failure.

check the filter and the press regulator. if you can, check the pressure from the pump and to the injectors. it might be a sensor, or the computer. hope not. check the tbi connectors for power.

The timing, or distributor cap need to be replaced. not getting any spark could be the problem

It is probably the actuator that locks in the hubs.

if i were you id do a basic tuneup, plugs wires, fuel filter... i think id start with the fuel filter, that might be your whole problem, not to mention the cheapest.

If all the vents are working correctly, I'd say the heater control valve isn't opening when you put it on "heat". I believe it's vacuum actuated so find the heater hoses running to firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment and make sure the line hasn't come off or the valve is stuck shut.

Good luck!

That is a project on the more difficult side. It would be difficult for anyone to explain. You should buy the haynes or chilton manual on your truck and follow those instructions.

PROBLEM COULD BE IN THE INJECTOR WIRE CONNECTOR OR PCM DRIVER CIRCUIT BOARD THAT DRIVE INJECTOR FAILED MEANING PCM FAULTY HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED TO CHECK FOR CODES.

Did you check the wire harness to the oxygen sensor? Considering its location it is exposed to a lot. Make sure the terminals are not corroded and are tight on the sensor. Then carefully trace the harness back looking for bare spots or places where the wires are rubbing. Pay close attention to bends. Tape up any suspicious spots. If the computer is not receiving the right signal from the sensor it will throw the code even though the sensor itself is working. Hope this helps.

If the smoke comes at start up then after a while goes away it is your heads -take them off and have them looked at in a machine shop If the smoke comes from a load on the engine then the piston rings are going bad -time for a bottom end rebuilt

first off do you have the other clip from the axel?or do you know were it is? if it's not in the diff then yes just tap the axel in with a dead blow and try not to damage the axel seal

Check the ECM fuse and then check for any loose wire connectors, especially at the fire-wall area, the ignition coil, and the distributor. Then check for battery voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil when the ignition key is in the "On" or "Run" position, and there should also be battery voltage running over from a wire that is also connected to the positive side of the ignition coil, and then that wire will run over from the ignition coil to the ignition module inside of the distributor, and if there is battery voltage there at the ignition module, then either the ignition module or the pick-up coil inside of the distributor will be the most likely suspects for the cause of the problem.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is actually what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like it could also be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.

I think on this model/yr you have a speedometer cable running down to the left front wheel.