1989 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Check the wiring, look for abrasions where wiring meets the frame, it may take a bit of searching to locate the problem. The wire doesn't necessarily need to be broken to not work, just shorted.

mass air flow sensor in the intake manifold

This depends on the condition of the vehicle and corrosion amounts in your atmosphere, like salted road in winter, coastal climate, etc. Typically Chevy used a type of road tar to seal the old booster to the firewall and these are difficult to remove - I've used a 4 foot section of 2x4 to have leverage and not damage the booster or firewall. The brake system does not need to be opened so the master can be removed and flexed out of the way for space to do the booster - usually. On some models(depending on your climate) the lines are hardened and do not flex well at all, so the lines have to be removed, then the master, then the booster.. A flexible lined system should be about 1 1/2 hours and the non flex lines should be about 3, including bleeding the master and wheel cylinders and the calipers. Hope this helps and thanks for using Fixya!!

check the switch under the break pedal it's either stuck or broken you can try some WD40 good luck.

You are likely correct in the valve guide thing...A little known fact about chevy smallblock engines is that when first introduced as the 265, the cam profile was different than the later versions (283 and up) Because of the different profiles in the later engines, the valve stem gets shoved against the guide as it goes up and down, causing it to wear. If the problem was a bit worse, likely they would have changed the position of the rockers but it wasn't so they didn't.
The stem seals are a simple "o" ring. Replacing them if the guides are worn is useless. (if they were a better design though likely the guides would wear faster so they are actually good in that respect)
What you need to do is to remove the heads and have the guides replaced. BUT, I'd first remove the valve covers and make sure the oil returns at the ends of the oil galleys in the heads aren't blocked with gunk. If they are, oil will pool up inside and run down the guides. In most cases, if they are blocked, simply clearing them will get your oil consumption back to within the "normal" range.

if you know of a transmission shop they will get one

You have to lower it enough to remove the gauge wiring, electrical connections and all hoses. That is supposed to be all there is.

1. Using a hammer and a drift punch, drive the fuel lever sending device and pump assembly locking ring (located on top of the fuel tank) counterclockwise. Lift the assembly from the tank and remove the pump from the fuel lever sending device.
2. Pull the pump up into the attaching hose while pulling it outward away from the bottom support. Be careful not to damage the rubber insulator and strainer during removal. After the pump assembly is clear of the bottom support, pull it out of the rubber connector.

you either have a bad caliper, or the rubber hose that connects to the caliper, that the only two things it can be.

need more info- could be alot of things... coolant sensor will make a tbi motor wacky.....

look for a faulty ground going to the dash panel

Get fuel pressure checked for your vehicle.If the fuel pressure is checked low then its fuel pump related problem.Also it can be clogged fuel filter. Also check the battery voltage.If its low then this problem is related to weak battery.Get the battery charged.A fully charged battery will show 12 volts.If the battery and fuel pressure both checked ok then it can be crank sensor or spark plug related problem.Get it checked by meter. Thanks.Helpmech.

Check the oil level of the transmission,if is ok take the oil pan off and inspect the bottom of it and see if there is to much metal or little pieces of the clutches and the filter.

Ignition switch or neutral/safety interlock. The interlock switch is only $10 but it's in the steering column. You can try shorting the wires where they come out of the column to see it that is the problem. The wire colors are purple and yellow as shown below. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Try this link to see if it answere your question

http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/components/1989-chevrolet-c1500~engine-asm-4-3l-v6-tc000940100-lt9m40c10703.html

The first generation mini fuses

youd have to drop the differential covers in the junkyard til you found one with posi. posi was optional on the trucks.

there should be 2 dipsticks around your motor, one will be longer than the other, the longest one most likely be the transmission dipstick, you can check the fluid level there!

low brake fluid in the master cylinder will also turn on that light,check the fluid?

You open the tailgate and there on the sides of the box hidden by the tailgate when its closed is are two Torx screws, remove them and the light assembly comes right out.

is the filler hose off? it may be stuck to the tar paper like insulation at the top.