1989 Chevrolet C1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

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There is only one sensor in the 1989 Chevy C1500 John you need to check the ground on the ECM

My 92 chevy is still blowing the ecm fuse. I have unplugged the ecm and the fuel pump and it is still doing it. What should I do next

I am looking at my owners manual for my 2003 Trailblazer Vortec 4.2L L6 (this is the inline 6, the option for a V6 is not available for the 6 cylinder). Per the owner's manual Spark Plug gap is .042 inches and the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4

First thing to do is check for fault codes, all you need is a paperclip to do this. link to instructions is below, also make sure you have correct fuel pressure. FAQ How to read older GM codes for free

Without testing the electrical circuit's for the headlamps we'd only be guessing . Looking at wiring diagrams an testing the circuit's with a DMM - digital multi- meter is the way to find the problem , not just replacing part's . Sound's like you know nothing of automotive electrical system's ,an testing . Suggest you take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop.

The wire to the sender in the fuel tank is shorted. If it was open or disconnected it would read full.

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Any codes? Dirty throttle body.Fuel filter.Air filter.

Usually one on each side of the exhaust before it comes together. This helps diagnose issues to the left or right bank of cylinders.

Are you having trouble with brake lamps? The orange wire is voltage for brake lamps, voltage comes from fuse. When brake switch is activated, the white wire goes hot, goes to turn signal switch. Your lower brake lamps are wired through turn signal switch. Any other wires may be for cruise control, where applicable. I'm probably leaving something out, I just can't think what it is, at the moment?

Well you can find the horn on the front by the grill or on the wheel well. I prefer the easy way. Pull the fuse for the horn. Hope this helps. God Bless :O)

I had same problem mine is a regular cab I almost went crazy til I saw it was only 1 torx bolt on each side of the bench. I loosened those and.. VOILA.. worked. Of course retighten after. Hope it helps

Paul, you do not have to remove motor just unplug it, if you do not want it powering up. Open hood and see if you can see antenna base through a inner fender access hole, if you can,be careful of sharp metal, you will have to reach in and unplug. press the helpful button

By the sounds of it possible abs unit fault

I'd have to check actuator movement for defrost. The actuator is electric according to my database. The actuator should be under dash at end of hvac housing.

Not unless you bypass it so the pump gets power.

Does it have a distributer ? or DIS ignition system ? Sounds like bad ignition module .

Should be one line comes from the fuel tank to the pump and the other line goes from the pump to the carburetor or injector body. Some cars have a third line that relieves fuel pressure from the pump to the return in the tank. This third line is much smaller than the other 2

what engine? Do you have power to the injectors? if not check the ECM1 fuse. If blown check the wiring harness around the throttle body for pinched wires to the injectors. Really common on the early throttle body engines. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa