20 Most Recent 1989 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

what engine? Do you have power to the injectors? if not check the ECM1 fuse. If blown check the wiring harness around the throttle body for pinched wires to the injectors. Really common on the early throttle body engines. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

I agree with the above comments. You have to be sure you got the firing order correct. If in doubt, look it up and double check it. When a car is backfiring, it can be from running the fuel too lean. You can always buy a compression tester tool and make sure you have compression on all cylinders.

According to Dan B. on answers yahoo.com: "missing spacer. The heavy wire from your alternator goes directly to the battery. If that wire is grounded, you are sending battery power directly to ground - blowing that link. That wire is not a ground wire - I don't care what the color of the insulation is - black or red. "

Enter this in your web browser 'image' search bar/box "Chev 1989 c1500 lighting wiring diagram" a bunch of diagrams pop up, you need to go thru them to find the one you need.

I is not advisable for a number of reasons. The steering will be a lot harder than even a vehicle without power steering which is a safety issue. The steering gear relies on the oil circulating through it for lubrication, so you would be putting undue stress and wear on the steering box. By the time you spend good money for a smaller belt and a lot of time trying to make it work, you could get a used pump from a pull it yourself junkyard.

need to overhall trans. reverse seal are cut or reverse clutch are out hope it help

Based on the schematic, if you have power from the battery to the starter to crank, then the alternator has a path to the battery for charging. The most likely cause of a dying battery in this case is the proverbial dead cell. You can charge the heck out of a battery and it may work all day long, but if it has a dead cell, it will drain itself to almost nothing overnight.

call the dealer at the parts department and they will give you that info for free...you can also just go to one and they will pull it up for you and give you a copy if you need it...

The rotor button should be pointed at the number one cylinder on the contact of the distributor cap. Be careful because on some of the GM distributor caps can be a little confusing. The contacts on the inside of the distributor cap can sometimes be a little confusing. Also on another note, those 5.7 vortec heads on a older 5.7 TBI block will make a very noticeable difference. Make sure and check the exhaust and intake ports and see if they are the same size. Some vortec heads have what they call a "Cathedral port". Lastly if you are kinda handy around a shop you can port and polish the inside of the cylinder head yourself. The main thing is to get all of the rough casting burs off the inside of the ports. I have used a flex head dremel tool and sanded them smooth. You will not believe the increase in torque, horsepower, and throttle response. Good luck.

There are broken parts in the wheel. It takes special tools to remove the steering wheel. Some auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools if you buy the parts from them.

It's in the fuel tank

Sounds like the camber is off. Have the alignment rechecked.

Your vehicle is way past a flush kit. Even if you recently replaced the radiator. If it over heats, you would have to use something heavy duty, Like muriatic or sulfuric acid. Then those would eat up the heater core and the radiator. Both copper and aluminium. If you have no heat, then replace the heater core. I have only come across a couple of engines that needed such a drastic acid solution.

It's a problem in the transmission. Most likely a snap ring has broke. This ring keeps the clutches compressed and in position. Problem is you have to pull the transmission and disassemble the entire inside of it to get to the ring.

check shorted out o2 sensor

The choke is not opening (old carburetor models), temperature sensor not working if newer model.

Code 32 is EGR failure. This could be your spark knock problem. I believe your is vacuum operated, so check the lines. To check the EGR valve, pull a vacuum on it and release it fast, you should hear a tap. These can be cleaned to make work, as long as the diaphram isn't bad.