Top 20 1988 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

There are two, if it's 1/4 inch round it goes to the antena if it's a single black wire connected by itself in the middle radio it's the ground and connects to the chassis. All other wires run into the connecter and feed speakers and has the power to it.

You might have to change the circuit board inside the assembly. The circuit board is what the light bulbs go into. Advance Auto Parts stocks these circuit boards. They come in pairs for about 35 bucks.

blown motor

Most likely problem is with the throttle position sensor.It will not set a code but will cause problems.Also if by low r.p.m.s you mean it will not rev up along the road,say 40 m.p.h. max on the level then you need to replace the catalytic converter,if it's plugged then you can't get rid of the exhaust as fast as you are trying to expel it ,there-for, no throttle after what the exhaust is willing to get rid of.

Hi my name is David =d_hubbs . Your Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Clock wise Rotation. NOTE make sure you know where your #1 Wire starts at on the Distributor Cap. To know for sure Reove your Coil Wire so it won't Start --Remove #1 Spark Plug which is on the Drivers side Front Plug. Have someone Bump the Engine a Little at a Time Until You Either see pressure Rise on a Gauge or Just Put your Finger on The outside of the #1 Spark Hole ---When you feel AIR ==Compression out of that Cylinder. .Your at TDC on Compression Stroke. Just Remove Distributor Cap.Look a Rotors Position in your Cap Which ever Spark Plug Hole in your Dist,. Cap is Closet to is where you Start your #1 Plug Wire.Its Possible you went Slightly Past Number 1 ,If so Just move ALL plug Wires 1 Hole Back Counter Clock Wise.And you Should be Good To Go. Please Let me Know how my solution helped you by Voting For me and Leaving a Testamony. Thanks From:---d_hubbs

check the coil, and distributor, cap and rotor asembaly

if it is a thick single wire it may go to your aerial otherwise there are speaker wires plus power supply wire....hope this helps.....cheers

blown bulbs,check all your bulbs if not that check flasher under dash next to fuse panel

email me at [email protected] and I will send instructions to you.

You may have broken or loosened brake light switch on top of brake pedal under the dash.

You might have a sticking shift solenoid. You could try changing the fluid and transmission filter. Note the color and smell of the transmission and if anything is in the pan.

some are on the side of the block under the manifolds, you will have some at the end of the heads and on the block behind the bell housing, hope this helps

the block casting when you are looking at the rear of the engine would be where the bellhousing bolts to the engine on the top-left side of the engine, the head casting should be on the left side head when looking from the back torwards the middle-bottom,and the crank cast should be behind the flywheel on the engine

im having the same problem... 2wd works fine, 4wd lo and hi both when the engine is just above idle and the wheels spin there is a knocking and when it goes too fast its like a grinding.... ive been told it was the actuator... but ive yet to test that theory... let me know what u find out on that... id sure like to get mine fixed too

Hi!!

The turn signal switch overrides your brake lights when activated, that's why when it fails, cuts power to both circuits.

For your type of vehicle, it is relatively easy to replace, remove steering wheel, unscrew turn signal lever, unplug electrical connector from underneath instrument panel by steering column, remove the 3 or 4 .screws fastening the switch and pull it out until connector is free. It is about 1/2 hr. job.

I suggest to get new switch first so you can get familiar with it.

Don't forget to rate this post. Good Luck.

Flasher relay under the dash needs replaced. Go to auto store buy a new one. Unplug old one and insert new one. If that doesnt do the trick it is probably the column stalk for the blinker needs replaced.

Could be the oil pan gasket or the rear main oil seal.
Remove the torque convertor cover. ( I am assuming that your truck is an automatic) That's that thin metal cover between the engine and transmission on the bottom side.
Drive the truck around the block to warm up and the oil to start leaking.
With the engine running in neutral, emergency brake on and wheels choked for safety.
Crawl under the truck and see where exactly the leak is. Is it between the flywheel and the engine block --leaking straight down the center of the flywheel --crankshaft rear seal?Or the pan gasket? or even a oil galley plug?
Good Luck.

Is the fan moving plenty of air?

Use a test light and see if you have a good ground and power to the pump.Make sure fuse is good.If you are not getting power and the fuse is good then check to see if you are getting power out of the switch when you push it.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Good evening Michael.
The fuse you are looking for is behind the plastic cover on the firewall on the right side. It may be a little disguised in a fuse holder. It is very near the battery junction box pins and fuse links. It's a 10 amp fuse and it supplies power to the relay for the fuel pump.
Hope this cures your problem.
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