Top 20 1988 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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First thing to check are the fuse of your power door/windows if both are ok. If both are ok, check the power window motor mechanism if is is responding. Run a wire from the positive ground and bypass the power window switch. If mechanism will respond, then you a problem with the switch. Same thing for the power locks. Test the actuator if it is responding.

Let me know if you have further questions.

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check tail plug wiring- factory installed even if you don't use it- can be shorted and cause simular problems

The distributor rotor just slides on the distributor shaft with no screws or hold downs on it.

Changing the spark plugs may help. If not, I would get it checked out. It may be time for an engine tuning.

remove dist cap and rotor, under the rotor there is a control module (its about 1/4" tall, 1" wide, and 2-2 1/2" long) remove the module and take it to a parts store and have it tested. If its bad replace it and put dist back together and try starting it again. if thats not it then have coil check. Oh ya before you take anything apart disconect battery.

site i use for casting numbers is down at the moment
far as if a camaro motor would work in your truck yes small blocks between trucks and cars the same
there are 2- bolt main blocks
and there are 4-bolt main blocks
2 and 4 bolts are used in cars
and 2 and 4 bolts are used in trucks
main differance between truck motors and car motors are the add ons intake exhaust manifolds
heads the blocks them self are the same
trucks are usally geared lower but that in the tranny and rear end not in the motor
soon as my site comes back up i look up your number for u and give u link to site as well

Did you loosen an injector line to see if you are getting fuel to the cylinder? Did you bleed the filter when you changed it? Was the rebuilt pump properly timed when it was installed? Are you sure all the air was bled out of the system after the pump and filter were changed? Do you have air bubbles in the fuel return line?
A copy of Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part #10330 ($20) could prove to be invaluable to help you track this down. It has excellent coverage of GM 6.2 and 6.5 engines. Hope this helps.

a full decking of heads, as well as refurbishing at a head shop is most likely necessary, new head bolts, head gaskets, as well as checking the valve/piston clearance.make sure the coolant holes are properly cleaned out, and this could be a good time to port and polish the heads

1988 Chevrolet K 1500 P/U 5.0 liter V-8 VIN "H"



Hope helps.

This is the high pressure switch.You will need to recover the system to replace it.Usually held in by a c-clip.You should be able to get the switch from the dealership.You might be able to get it from a parts store also.But I think your best bet is the dealership or where ever you had your system retrofitted from.This switch detects the high pressure side and if the pressure gets to high it will shut off your system to protect the compressor.Hope this helps and let me know if you have any more questions.Good luck.

first we will start will the fuel gauge most likely you are correct chevys and 1995 and older jeep wranglers had this problem the sending units failed very commonly. you could have possibly gotton another bad cluster but most likely the speed sensor has worn out. it has a plastic gear being turned by a metal gear and is located near the tail of the transmission. hope this helps

yes. it is not directly connected to the gas side of the A/C system you can remove the wiring harness with out worry of refrigerant discharge.

The 700R4 requires no computer. That's what the TV Cable is- Activates the OverDrive without needing a computer. I don't think a 700R4 has a lockup. At least, None of the trucks I have driven have had one.

Hello Nummy.

If you have spark at the coil the module is OK. The module fires the coil.
Your problem then becomes the ignition wires, the distributor cap or the rotor.
These are the items that carry the high voltage to the spark plug.
There is also the possibility the spark is jumping off at the coil itself when all is hooked up.
This happens because the resistance increases through the wiring and jumping the gap at the spark plugs.
I hope your repair goes well. Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

no spark, spark advance's are not connected or bad timeing is my guess. take a plug wire off put a spare spark plug in it ground it to the engine an turn the truck over, should have a blue snapping spark (may need a second person to help). the spark advances are located on the back of the throttle body looks like 2 vacume hoses check to see if those are connected, if theres no spark check the ignition coil

could just need a simple oil change, an depending on how many miles are on this engine it could just be over worked. the 5.7 350s that came in these trucks ran forever but unfortunatly would start burning oil an have a loss of power

Don't trust your gas gauge.

I know the color code for chevy and the brown lead is for the running lights,soooo the white wire would be for the brake and turn sig.

If you're certain you have spark then try the starting fluid again strait into the throttle body with someone immediately starting it. Your compression may be another issue to look at but this is uncommon to stop you while running down the road. You might want to check the compression though. Take off a valve cover to confirm that the valves are still moving to help rule out a broken timing chain.

You have an HEI distributor, so the coil is in the cap-to see if you are getting spark, you should be able to check it by removing ANY plug wire, and install a screw drive into the end that goes on to a plug-hole the metal shaft close to the engine and have someone crank the starter-if you see a spark (hold it close to metal) your coil is functoning.