20 Most Recent 1988 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

the block casting when you are looking at the rear of the engine would be where the bellhousing bolts to the engine on the top-left side of the engine, the head casting should be on the left side head when looking from the back torwards the middle-bottom,and the crank cast should be behind the flywheel on the engine

Sounds like either the throttle cable or linkage is sticking or there is a vacuum pipe that is split or disconnected, check all of the air hoses and vacuum pipes, check the throttle mechanism and cable or linkage to see if its sticking and free it off if it is. Hope that helps

is the check engine light on and if so what are the codes
on that model check to see if the map is getting vacuum if it is not getting vacuum the map sensor port at the throttle body is plugged very common

Is the fan moving plenty of air?

put water in it and heat up with the cap off until you see the water drop then add more and you will be full. I suggest adding some coolant as well if your gonna be in cold climate

its poss that ur key lock clip is broken or the rod that goes to the lock from key came off u need to take off door panel then look inside of the door find the lock then inpect it to see if anything came off or broken

need to remove door panel and window handle if not power windows then need to drill old rivets out then either new rivets or bolts and lock-nuts

if its a motor vehicle it will be a single pane of safety glass,if it has a built in heated rear window some models use two panes moulded together ,depends on who makes the glass

Check the ground wire to the instrument panel.

you dont have too pull the motor!!
remove the radiator shroud, remove the distributor cap and rotor, take pipes lose from exsaulst manifold, take out motor mount bolts pick the engine up with a hoist, you now have enough room too drop the oil pan!!remove rear main bearing cap, take lower half of seal out of cap, too remove the up half of seal ,i use a small screwdriver too slide it around the crank ,
grease up the new one and it will slide right in!!
in spect the rod and main bearings while you have it apart and think about replacing them they dont cost much about 4.00 each and if you go that far replace the oil pump its not much either under 30.00!!

pop the hood on the passenger side wheel well ,you should see two heater hoses going into a control valve,and two coming out the other side , all 4 should be hot when the trucks warmed up and heater is on!!
if not try working that valve by hand or relpace it !!!

open the hood
take a tool box
and have fun

There is a chassis short somewhere most likely not on the engine. Things that are always powered looking for a ground once the ignition is on are:

1. back up lights
2. Cigarette Lighter
3. Brake lights
4. Dome lights
5. Horn

Any of those can cause the problem

A slow but effective way to troubleshoot is to pull a different fuse each evening

Acc
Brake Lite
Head light
Tail Light
Dome / instrument Light
Horn
Lighter
wiper

One day your going to find that the battery is still fully charged.

How ever a faster way is to disconnect the negative post battery terminal and touch it to the battery post after pulling each fuse.... one of those times the spark is going to be MUCH less.... That is the circuit you need to find out where the chassis short is in.
Most often I find chassis shorts are on the frame going to the rear of the vehicle caused by a chaffing wire.


Thanks for using FixYa!

Kelly

There is an electrical motor/module that runs the blend doors. It is located above the gas pedal, to the right behind the ashtray area.It will be mounted to the plastic heater box. Two wire plug, about 2" by 2". Take it off by removing the two screw that hold in in place. Leaving it plugged in, with the key on move your selector from defrost to floor, to vent. If it doesn't do anything replace it. If it moves, check the two metal bars that pull the doors open and closed. That year had a problem with lint and grime causing the rods to stick. Also down the road if your heat selector does't work check for the same thing. but remove the glovebox panel to access it. Once your glovebox is out, the control unit is off to the left a little bit. Hope it helps you.

Could be the oil pan gasket or the rear main oil seal.
Remove the torque convertor cover. ( I am assuming that your truck is an automatic) That's that thin metal cover between the engine and transmission on the bottom side.
Drive the truck around the block to warm up and the oil to start leaking.
With the engine running in neutral, emergency brake on and wheels choked for safety.
Crawl under the truck and see where exactly the leak is. Is it between the flywheel and the engine block --leaking straight down the center of the flywheel --crankshaft rear seal?Or the pan gasket? or even a oil galley plug?
Good Luck.

Timing belt/chain...or u could have a bad coil pack!!!!

Located on engine block on passenger side.

is there an anti theft system installed ??
if yes it is ingauged

Have you had your rear brake linings checked