20 Most Recent 1988 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I know the color code for chevy and the brown lead is for the running lights,soooo the white wire would be for the brake and turn sig.

its the stupid actuator in the front differential. You can change it or order a posi lock unit

sir, maybe your turn signal lights fuse are busted. you try to check sir.

If you're certain you have spark then try the starting fluid again strait into the throttle body with someone immediately starting it. Your compression may be another issue to look at but this is uncommon to stop you while running down the road. You might want to check the compression though. Take off a valve cover to confirm that the valves are still moving to help rule out a broken timing chain.

site i use for casting numbers is down at the moment
far as if a camaro motor would work in your truck yes small blocks between trucks and cars the same
there are 2- bolt main blocks
and there are 4-bolt main blocks
2 and 4 bolts are used in cars
and 2 and 4 bolts are used in trucks
main differance between truck motors and car motors are the add ons intake exhaust manifolds
heads the blocks them self are the same
trucks are usally geared lower but that in the tranny and rear end not in the motor
soon as my site comes back up i look up your number for u and give u link to site as well

This could be a couple of different things. I will start with the most likely and go to the least likely. The most likely is the fuel filter, if not that then check the fuel pressure to the throttle body. Could be the fuel pressure regulator. If you don't have enough fuel pressure and the regulator is ok, then the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay could be the problem.

Check to make sure that the fuel lines are connected correctly and you haven't mixed up the delivery and the return pipes....It can happen sometimes!
Best regards Johngee10

You might have to change the circuit board inside the assembly. The circuit board is what the light bulbs go into. Advance Auto Parts stocks these circuit boards. They come in pairs for about 35 bucks.

1988 Chevrolet K 1500 P/U 5.0 liter V-8 VIN "H"



Hope helps.

im having the same problem... 2wd works fine, 4wd lo and hi both when the engine is just above idle and the wheels spin there is a knocking and when it goes too fast its like a grinding.... ive been told it was the actuator... but ive yet to test that theory... let me know what u find out on that... id sure like to get mine fixed too

OK VACCUM HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS TRANS THIS HAS A CABLE THAT WILL ADJUST THE SHIFS ON THE TRANS AND IT IS LOCATED BACK BY THE DIST. CAP IT HAS A SMALL STEEL TAB ON IT LIKE YOUR THUMB NAIL YOU HAVE TO PUSH THAT DOWN AND AT THE SAME TIME PULL THE CABLE BACK TO THE FIREWALL THEN YOU TAKE AND GRAB THE THROTTLE LEVER AT THE THROTTLE BODY AND TURN IT CLOCK WAYS AS FAR AS IT WILL GO IN ONE MOTION DO NOT STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF IT THE CABLE WILL COME OUT AUTOMATICLY AND IT IS ADJUSTED IF THE REST OF YOU SHIFTS ARE OK AND ITS JUST 2ND GEAR THIS IS NOT GOING TO FIX YOU PROBLEM BUT IT NOT GOING TO HURT ANYTHING EITHER WHAT I THINK YOUR PROBLEM IS THAT A CHECK BALL THAT IS IN THE VALVE BODY AS GONE THROUGH THE SEPERATOR PLATE AND THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM BUT TRY THE CABLE FIRST AND IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS ABOUT IT LET ME KNOW THANKS AND GOOD LUCK

most common problem for this issue is the temp. sender located in front of the thermostat housing, it has a two wire connector, and screws into the top of the intake it is usually brass, using a new sensor to aid in locating it will help.. the parts house might ask if you need the one for the gauge, or computer, you need the one for the computer, it should be only like 0 or 30 bucks and if you change it fast enough you won't even lose much coolant

sounds like a wire short some where near the block

blown motor

Hi, the axle shaft has to be removed prior to taking the ball joints out.

Hi, there is an oil pressure sensor mounted below the distributor, and the wiring for the fuel pump runs through this sensor. it needs to be plugged in. The sensor is usuall mounted in a brass pipe, that is screwed into the block, just behind the intake. Good luck...Coop

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.

ECM LOCATED IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT BY THE RIGHT SIDE KICK PANEL OR BEHIND GLOVE BOX.WHEN YOU FIND ECM.LOOK AT PART NUMBER ON ECM MAKE SURE PART NUMBER RIGHT.NOW ECM HAS A MEM - CAL ACCESS COVER.REMOVE ACCESS COVER.TO REMOVE COMPUTER CHIP OR MEM - CAL.FIRST YOU USE TWO FINGERS PUSH BOTH RETAINING CLIPS BACK AWAY FROM THE MEM - CAL AT THE SAME TIME GRASP THE MEM - CAL AT BOTH ENDS THEN LIFT IT UP OUT OF SOCKET. WHEN INSTALLING NEW COMPUTER CHIP OR MEM - CAL MAKE SURE YOU HAVE RIGHT PARTS NUMBER IF NOT YOU WILL DESTROY NEW CHIP.WHEN INSTALLING NEW COMPUTER CHIP OR MEM - CAL PRESS ONLY ON THE ENDS NOT THE MIDDLE.WHEN DONE.DO A DIAGNOSTIC TEST.TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH ON.ENTER DIAGNOSTIC MODE AT THE ALCL.SEE CODE 12 ALL IS GOOD IF YOU SEE CODES 41 42 51 OR 52 YOUR MEM - CAL OR COMPUTER CHIP NOT COMPLETELY SEATED OR DEFECTIVE.TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE TAKE WHOLE ECM CASE TO DEALERSHIP LET THEM GET YOUR PART NUMBER OFF OLD ECM UNIT.THAT WAY YOU CANT GO WRONG.