20 Most Recent 1988 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

one word --immobilisor try the spare key

Sounds like the rear differential may have come apart. I would drop the rear diff. cover and inspect for broken gears.

what size tires are you running on this..31 33 36 38...

engines that sit for long periods of time suffer from hardening of the seals and rust. There is a very good possibility that the valve stem seal will be hard and cracked allowing oil to be drawn down into the chamber during idling and the rings would have been rusty or running in rusty bores so there will be pitting in the bores. If adding oil is not a problem to you then the oil consumption will only get you into trouble with the pollution police.

i had this problem it was a blown gasket under the trottle body easy repair three bolts new gasket idles fine check for other vaccum leaks also

wires for speakers are paired and smaller wires. if you touch the ends of the wires to a aa battery the speaker hooked to them will buzz and this does not damage the speaker

Will it go into gear if the engine is not running? If not then you have an internal problem. If is does, then you are looking at a clutch problem. Does it feel like there is resistance when you push on the clutch pedal? If not, you may need a clutch adjustment.Does the clutch make noise when it is depressed? May need a new clutch assy.

Check your basic power and grounds, ignition switch, and the fuseable links.

you need to adjust the engion timing

Sorry no idea on this american vehicle but try looking in the fuse box is the first thought and remember that their are two fuse boxes ,one under the bonnet and one inside the motor

You can obtain that information at www.alldatadiy.com

Do you mean the engine oil pressure switch ?

The fuel pump circuit and injector circuits are fed by two different fuses.The fuel pump relay and injectors are controlled by the computer. Have you checked both ECM fuses for power ?

Ok I know this question is old but for any one else who has this problem, I want to clear some info up. GM did not use vacuum on the 4x4 systems on the full size series. Only used on the S series (S10, S Blazers). Here is how to accurately trouble shoot these problems with the full size 4x4. Remove the front actuator from the front axle ( keep it plugged up and let it hang). Put the T-Case in 4x4 Hi or Lo doesn't matter. Turn key on (don't start the engine) . Now check the actuator to see if it has extended. If (no) now check the plug to see if you have current . If you have current to the plug, change the actuator. Problem solved. If no current to the plug. Check for broken wires ( fix if any) If no broken wires. There is another switch on the T-Case that sends power to the actuator Replace it.. Back to the actuator.... If everything checked out and actuator works. With the T-Case locked in 4x4, try to turn the front drive shaft by hand. With the T-Case locked in 4x4 you shouldn't be able to turn the drive shaft. If drive shaft doesnt turn the T-Case is in good shape and the problem will be in the front differential. In these cases the most common problem is an exploded thrust washer. At this point the front differential needs to be rebuilt. Back to the T-Case..... With the T-Case locked in 4x4, if the drive shaft spins, the problem will be in the T-Case and at this point the T-Case will need rebuilt......... I hope you get the information you need to troubleshoot the GM 4x4 issues.