1988 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You will need a steering wheel puller, a lock plate depressor, and a number 4 or 6 star socket. Pull the steering wheel, then the lock plate. Remove the screw that holds the hazzard light button on, there is a spring in the switch so hold on to it. Pull the turn signal lever out of the switch, some have a screw some just pull out, if you do not see a screw where the lever plugs into the switch then it just pulls out. Remove 3 screws that hold turn signal switch in the steering column, pull up on the switch to get it over the end of the steering shaft, if there is not enough slack in the wire you will need to get undr the dash and unplug the wire so it can move up. You do not need to pull the switch out just get it out of the way. After all that is done you should be able to see two holes on the left and right side of the steering shaft, above center, in the bottom of these holes there are star headed screws that have come loose, tighten these and youe wobble will be gone. Then all you have to do is put er back together.

hi this sounds like the actual bearings have gone in the pulley, hence the belt coming off, you will have to replace that pulley or what ever it is that the pulley is attached to ie power steering pump, water pump, etc, to put the belt back on after the repair has been done, you will need to loosen off one of the tensioner pulleys to put it back on...hope this helps

Hydra boost brakes? On a 1500? Is it a diesel? Pump is full of fluid? Can you explain which hose he did this to?

I'm guessing that since you have covered so many electrical ignition parts maybe the problem is fuel related. Is this carb or throttle body? Either way I would start to head in this direction. When the engine is running can you stand by with a can of starting spray and squirt it into "carb" when it starts to die? Maybe you can keep it running with the spray which would prove whether or not it is fuel related. Good luck!

its a" 700 R4"

the rod bolts are 45 ft-lbs
2 bolt maincaps 70 ft-lbs
4 bolt maincaps (inner) 70 ft-lbs (7/16 outer) 65 ft-lbs
4 bolt maincaps (inner) 70 ft-lbs (3/8 outer) 40 ft-lbs

check all of your vacuum lines including your power brake booster it sounds like you have a vacuum leak

start engine unhook positive cable if it dies its bad alternator or fuesable link between batt and alternator also a volt meter will tell u if its charging a good alternator will charge 13.50 to 14 volts

Your carburetor has an electrically controled choke thermostat. In addition to this you have what is known as a choke pull-off diaphram. this pull off over a peroiod of time wears through the rubber diaphram and it fails to open the choke the necessary amount to stop from choking the engine out completely. Now, during this failure your sparkplugs have become irreperably blackened with fuel soot and they cannot be cleaned. this is why once your engine warms up it will not run because fouled plugs will only fail when they are warm. You need to have your choke thermostat, your choke pull-off valve and your spark plugs checked and or changed.

Have your starting system checked for starter draw.If the starter is drawing to many amps it will draw the battery down very quickly.Also have your charging system load tested to make sure the alternator is charging properly.Hope this helps.Good luck.

you need check the vss input whit a scan tool if you have this input then you need need to check the output from the drac module to the dash panel the drac is on the left side of the dash tucked up there

First thing to do is check the antifreeze level in the radiator. An empty radiator won't always show a hot temperature gauge or make heat in the cab. If it's full, then the problem is probably your heater core. Judging by the year of your truck, thats where my money's at.

Check ball joints and tie rod ends for play. Jack the truck up on the frame and try to move the wheel up and down for ball joints and side ti side for tie rod ends. Also make sure you check the idler arm on passenger side and pitman arm on steering box. None of the parts should any play whatsoever. If there is any play in them when you try to move them then replace them.
There could also be excessive play in the steering box but that shouldn't make it swerve back and forth. That would just let it wander to one side or the other until you corrected it by turning the wheel. Hope this helps.

Could be, also could be wheel bearing. Have to remove wheel and brake drum. Linkages on brake could have broken in drum causing brake to lock up.

bad vaccume advance or distritor is 180 degrees out!!

Those values and most everything else you need for DIY work are contained in the Haynes manual for your vehicle. We have one with each of our vehicles and not only give you the info needed to do repairs yourself but also get an idea of how much work a specific repair should (or shouldn't) cost.
'88 Chevy pickup manual
You can also buy these from auto parts stores for a few dollars less and sometimes on eBay for even less.

I have the same truck I've been looking for information on a different subject. I am an ASE technician I may know what might be causing your problem. First off the white wire on the coil that goes to nothing is your test wire it's not going to be hooked up unless you are performing a test to ensure that the coil is working. Just changing parts often times does not solve the problem and it can become very expensive and make things worst for the next guy to fix. it's going to be in one of two systems Fuel or Ignition since you just did things to the ignition system I'd start looking there check the firing order needs to know what engine you have before I can give you the firing order. is this a V6? V8 5.7? what all did you replace during your tune up? it could be that one of the plugs are not gaped correctly or tightened down which could cause damage to the head requiring the valves to ground to correct the problem. Your catalytic converter may also be causing the problem one the et hot and melt they start blocking the flow of exhaust. If you would like to read more on that check out this site it has some very good information. http://www.aa1car.com/library/converter.htm

good day, you'll find the fluid reseroir mostly at the right when you open the hood, it is connected with the big black round thing its the hydrovac. hope this helps, have a nice day

sometimes u can bang on lower door panel while pushing on window up button it may work

If the starter has been checked,and the battery has been checked,and the alternator has been checked,and you are sure all this is good,then replace the battery cables,both of them,they are breaking down,and not letting enough amps to the starter.By the way,use a size larger than what the cables are now,the bigger around the cables are,the more amperage they will carry.I have fixed a lot of them this way,