1988 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

that says you are getting gas but spark,start from spark pugs and trace it back to coil, if every thing is OK to that point,trace it back all the way to ignition swith in the steering column

Take back ask for new one.

Where both rebuilt alternators any good& retested at store?Your explaining a constant voltage drop,once the battery is hooked up.How about the ignition switch?Does that have anything to do withthe regulator control in alternator?You haven't said you have 14 plus voltswith motor running,so basically you don'thave an alternator charging your new battery& the ignition currant, even without the lights on,is running down the batteryAll I said is what you already knowI'm is missing something?Don't unhook any battery cables withthe motor running,were not living in the 1960'sThose type tests will ruin many things on newervehicles, than yours,loose that practice & also avoidjump starting any vehicle from 1996 on

With the heater control switched to on try taping on the blower motor with a hammer or something hard. If it works you just need a new motor, If it dont, it could be a a corroded terminal. Just pull the wires off the motor and inspect them for corrosion.

Hello thank you for using FixYa.com for your answer my name is David.
You say it wont start in the normal way by just turning it on but if you pour gas in the throttle body
it will start sounds like you have a weak fuel pump most likely but there are a few other things that could cause it also .

1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. 11 Inspect Air Charge Sensor Damaged or faulty air charge sensor or air charge sensor circuit. 12 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source.

check your owners manuel it will show you which fuse to check

check your fuel flow and pressure.check that your injector(s) aren't cloggedcheck your map or maf sensor

The bolt that holds the pulley on is left hand thread ,so you can release the tensioner.So remove the belt and turn the bolt clockwiseto remove.

I believe up to 1992 !

The most common reasons for low idle is a dirty throttle body and a faulty idle air control valve.A miss could also cause the low idle speed but not as likely.

Does it start right back up ?Are you loosing spark to the plugs or fuel to the injectors ?

check you shift silinoids, there located inside trans mission pan on back of valve body. there are 2 of them.swap them with each other,if you have 1st &reverse then you know its one of the siliniods. if it makes no difference then you need to have your trans rebiut or get a new one.

Go to the web site below and run a fault code test.http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-codes.com/check-engine-light-codes/GM-1983-1995-OBD1-Decoder.html

sound like short loose wire in switch or switch going bad.

Could be a fuel filter issue or a screen in the fuel tank

You need to adjust up the rear brakes and also check back there for leaking wheel cylinders and maybe even a bad bearing in the axle assembly, worn shaft,accompanied by a leaking axle seal that will appear really nasty and smell bad too...I have also seen this model with a crappy pedal when the brake hoses have become softened and expand under pressure

Removal requires a special socket. This can be found at any auto parts store...

if you have a 1/2 dive 3/4 socket with a cheater pipe you can move your slack adjuster that is how i did mine

Well, the first step is a visual inspection. Maske sure that all of your battery connections are CLEAN and TIGHT. You should not be able to rotate the side terminals with moderate pressure. I have seen many battery replacements go bad simply because the terminals were not installed on the battery correctly. Also make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals where they contact the battery post. This will require removing the connectors and looking at them. I have seen many "GREEN" battery terminals installed on new batteries where the customer could not figure out what was wrong. If your cables still have the rubber covers on the battery terminals, it is usually a good thing to slide the terminal out of the covers to clean them with battery cleaner and a wire brush, then reinstall. Bad connections make for dead batteries.....Once you are convinced that all the battery connections are no less than perfect, then you need to get the engine started and check your charging system voltage. It should be 13.6 to 14.4 volts when measured at the battery terminals with the engine running. If it is less than this, you need to suspect a bad alternator or faulty alternator circuits.This should keep you busy for a minute or two....do these things and let me know what you find. I will help you continue if needed.

Fuel pump it's in the tank there good for that