20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2WD - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Bad oil sensor. That's the first thing I would check. The oil pressure sensor could be going bad and setting off a bad light.

Its in the trunk mounted near the spare tire

my 05 silverado does the same thing it seems to be a common problem in the later series i found that having the steering shaft repact helps for a while but isn't a permenant fix. My chevy dealer said that GM was looking into a more permenant solution

Not sure what fuse or fuses you have replaced. I know there is a fuse marked BLWR in the fuse panel under the hood but the is also another fuse that is a vital part dealing with the blower motor working. Above in the second picture is the fuse layout in the fuse panel inside the truck. I marked the fuse you need to check (HTR A/C). If that fuse is good then you need to check where your power loss is. In the first picture above, that is one of the connectors on the control panel (power control switch &if you have a manual control not auto). The terminal marked with an arrow you need to chaeck for power at that terminal (Should be a brown wire. If no power, find the open wire from there to the HTR A/C fuse. If your good there you can make sure your getting power to the blower motor. Not sure of the wire color but it's the one that's not black. Make sure you have power there with the switch on. remember to use a seperate ground and not the other wire (the black one) on the connector at the blower motor. If no power the find the open wire from there to the replay. If all is good then there's much more tracing but I would start here. Hope it's just that other fuse. Hope this helps....

I would recommend clearing the codes first and finding out if all four come back again.Code 101 is for a problem with the mass air flow sensor circuit. The sensor measures the amount of air entering the intake.Code 171 and 174 are for the O2 sensors telling the computer the fuel system is too lean on both banks.Code 446 is for a problem with the EVAP system which is what the computer uses to vent the gas tank to the vapor canister. Its possible code 101 could cause the next two, but not the last one.If the codes come back after you drive the truck, each code would need to be investigated.

I am willing to bet money that your WATER PUMP IMPELLER is Corroded and Eaten away to nearly Nothing. If you believe your Thermostat is working properly then I would expect the Water Pump.I had this same thing happen to one of my Customer's who had a 2002-2003 V-8 and kept the "DEXCOOL" in their car.... If you are running Dexcool, convert it over to the GREEN....

Fuse gone more than often

either your bulb is bad or going bad(make sure you buy the same one to replace it) or your wiring is corroded to the connection

It sounds like you are saying it sticks in idle. The throttle valve shafts may be binding, or it just may need a good cleaning. Buy a GM approved product cleaner for your throttle body. Many have a special surface coating on the inside for smoother air flow, and the trusty old wd40 or even regular carburetor cleaner can not be such a good idea, or so I've heard.

Did you get all of the air pockets out of the cooling system after replacing the thermostat ? Is the radiator and overflow tank full ?

u need to check rear end with the drive shaft removed vibration goes away would lead me to believe you have bad bearings in the rear end more than likely the pinion bearing
pull cover off (while fluid draining check to see if there a lot of metal in oil )
if you do see metal in fluid or laying in rear end you need rear end rebuilt or replaced
i wouldn't recommend doing the rebuild your self because with out the special tools and knowleage u can make matters worse

Did you put a master gauge on it? Or are you looking at the gauge in dash?