Top 10 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Questions & Answers

The noise is caused by the axle button being worn out, this lets the axle move back and forth and clunk, this is a unique problem with C clip retained axles, it is a noise issue but will not fail and cause any more damage, in order to fix it you must have the axles pulled and the diff carrier checked for excess wear where the axle retainning C clip rides, if the carrier is ok then replace the axles.

DTC P0446 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent System Performance

The vehicle control module (VCM) monitors the performance of the evaporative emission (EVAP) system by applying a predetermined level of vacuum to the EVAP system and monitors the vacuum decay rate. The VCM sets this diagnostic trouble code (DTC) if the vacuum decay rate is more than a predetermined value. The VCM monitors the amount of vacuum and the amount of pressure in the EVAP system by monitoring the fuel tank pressure sensor. For this DTC, the VCM turns ON both the EVAP purge valve and the EVAP vent valve when the Conditions for Running the DTC are met. This applies an engine vacuum to a closed EVAP system. The VCM turns OFF both the EVAP purge valve and the EVAP vent valve when the system reaches a correct amount of vacuum. The EVAP system should quickly RELEASE the vacuum in the EVAP system with the EVAP purge valve OFF and the EVAP vent valve OFF (open). This test indicates a blocked or restricted EVAP vent path if the EVAP system fails to release the vacuum quickly enough.

Try pumping the brakes 3 or 4 times with the truck running in 'park'.

Hello,
I hope this helps.







Thank You,
Roy

Subject: 97-05 Vehicles with 4.8 5.3 5.7 and 6.0 Gen III V8 Engines and Misfires on One Bank - kw CEL diagnostics driveability DTC P0171 P0172 P0174 P0175 P0300 P0301 P0302 P0303 P0304 P0305 P0306 P0307 P0308 #PIP3056 - (07/12/2004)

Models: (00-05 Cadillac Escalade - C6 and K6) and (02-05 Chevrolet Avalanche - C1, C2 K1 and K2) and (99-05 Chevrolet Silverado - C1, C2 K1 and K2) and (00-05 Chevrolet Suburban - C1, C2, K1 and K2) and (00-05 Chevrolet Tahoe - C1 and K1) and (99-05 GMC Sierra C1, C2 K1 and K2) and (00-05 GMC Yukon - C1, C2, K1 and K2) and (03-05 Chevrolet Express G1, G2, G3, H1, H2 ) and (03-05 GMC Savana G1, G2, G3, H1, H2 ) and (04-05 Buick Rainier S1, T1 ) and (03-05 Chevrolet Trail Blazer EXT S1, T1 ) and (03-05 GMC Envoy XL XUV S1, T1 ) and (03-05 Hummer H2) and (04-05 Cadillac CTS-V DB) and (98-02 Chevrolet Camaro FB) and (97-04 Chevrolet Corvette YB) and (98-02 Pontiac Firebird FB) and (04-05 Pontiac GTO VB)

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

Condition/Concern:
Check Engine Light with a P0300 due to 2 - 4 cylinders misfiring on the same bank of the engine. DTCs P0171, P0172, P0174 or P0175 may also set for the misfiring bank.

Recommendation/Instructions:
If the published misfire diagnostic does not isolate the cause, perform the following suggestions as necessary:

• Perform a fuel injector balance test for all 8 cylinders. If a fuel injector concern exists, it is possible to misfuel an entire bank of the engine, causing multiple cylinders on the same bank to misfire even though the root cause is a single fuel injector.
• Inspect O2 sensor connections on the misfiring bank for corrosion or water intrusion. If water intrusion is found on the right bank, it may be due to the AC Evaporator Condensation dripping onto the O2 sensor harness. If this condition is found, reposition and shield the harness to prevent a repeat concern and repair the connections.
• Check for excessive exhaust backpressure using the restricted exhaust diagnosis.
• Swap the Position 1 O2 sensors side to side to see if the misfires move to the other bank of the engine. If so, replace the O2 sensor.

Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

NOTE: GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition.

Hello, this is a very common problem on this model vehicle. Your wiper motor control module is bad and will need to be replaced. The motor is underneath the "cowl vent" at the rear of your hood. You need to pop the cover cap off the windshield wiper arms, then unbolt the wiper arms and remove them, they are tough so spray some WD-40 on them and pull and wiggle. Now at the rear of that plastic cowl at the two rear corners lift up that flap and unscrew those 2 screws, one at each end. Next remove the clips at the front of the cowl, just pull them forward. Now lift up the cowl and unplug the washer hose. Just a word of advise, lay the cowl in the bed so nobody steps on it. Unplug the electrical connector going into the module which is mounted directly to the wiper motor and unbolt the module. Bolt on the new module. Test the wipers now and if all is well, put the cowl and wipers back on and you will be done.

take it to a transmision shop sounds like a problem with the valve body

Okay, the window circuit in your truck is different from most power window circuits, in that the master switch provides battery positive power to the driver's window and only provides grounds for the relays that control the passenger window. The master switch is probably not getting the battery power needed to operate the driver's window. Since both windows are supplied battery voltage from the same self-resetting breaker - and the passenger window works, then the breaker is good. The next step is to check for battery voltage at the DARK GREEN wire at the driver's door switch on pin "F". I'm not really a betting man, but I would wager that there is no power there. If you find that battery voltage is not present at the switch, the MOST LIKELY cause would be that the DARK GREEN wire is broken inside the umbilical between the body and the door. The proper way to fix this is to remove the wiring harness from the door and disassemble it to access the wires. This way, it can be put back as close as possible to original. Some mechanics are not willing go through all of this and will cut the umbilical. (Rubber protection sleeve) This can get your window to work, but leaves the wires exposed for future damage. I personally don't recommend this. It takes a lot more time and effort to do this correctly, but in the long-run it is worth it.

Please also review this article: What Else Could Be Wrong?

I have a 99 Silverado with the 8.6 3.73 rear diff. Is the torque specs for the yoke the same as a GMC at 270 ft lbs?

GM doesn't use an expansion valve in the front, it uses a fixed orifice, it is located at the inlet to the evaporator core at the firewall on passengers side of engine compartment. Removal requires a special tool if it has never been replaced.