1998 Chevrolet Blazer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity and typos. Question moved to model category. Why do you think you need to change it? https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+chevy+blazer+ls.+transmission+control+module+replacement Location https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+chevy+blazer+LS+TCM+location ..

my 97 burban has a dome override button next to light switch that does the same things you discribed look for it and push it if you have one its labeled

That is what the pushbutton control on the dash is for. As far as a front end conversion is concerned, really no practical way. You could swap it for one from a two wheel drive S10, but that will also involve changing the transmission to one without the PTO and modifying the control circuits..

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.

It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
Trucks
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GMC/Chevy
1998-2006 S10/T10/Sonoma
/Blazer/Jimmy
1998-2007 Suburban/Avalanche
/Tahoe/Yukon
1998-2006 Sierra/Silverado
2002-2008 Trailblazer
2003-2006 SSR
1998-2006 C1500/C2500/C3500
1998-2006 K1500/K2500/K3500
2003-2007 Hummer H2
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Isuzu
1998-2000 Hombre
2005-2006 I280/I350
2007-2008 I290/I370
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Cars/Vans
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Isuzu
2003-2007 Ascender
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Pontiac
1994-2003 Grand Prix
1998-1999 Montana
2006 Torrent
1996-2005 Grand AM
1994-1998 Trans Sports
1988-1999 Bonneville
1988-2002 Firebird
1995-2005 Sunfire
1996-2002 Trans Am
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Buick
2004-2007 Rainier
1994-2005 Century
1993-2004 Regal
1982-1999 LeSabre
1991-1996 Park Avenue / Ultra
1994-1996 Roadmaster
1991-1996 Roadmaster Estate Wagon
1982-1999 Riviera
1988-1991 Reatta
1996-1998 Skylark
1982-1990 Electra (all models)
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Oldsmobile
1996-1998 Achieva
1999-2004 Alero
1994-2004 Aurora
1998-2004 Bravada
1991-1993 Delta 88
1994-1999 Eighty-Eight
1991-1996 Nighty-Eight
1998-2002 Intrigue
1990-1992 Toronado
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1997-1999 Cutlass
1997-1999 LSS/Regency
1997-1999 Silhouette
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser
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Chevrolet/GMC
1998-2005 Astro/Safari
1998-2008 Envoy
2005-2006 Equinox
1998-2007 Savana/Express
1995-2005 Monte Carlo
1997-1999 Venture
1995-2001 Lumina
1988-2002 Camaro
1995-2005 Cavalier
1982-2004 Corvette
1994-1996 Caprice/Caprice Wagon
1995-1996 Impala SS
2000-2005 Impala
1997-2005 Malibu Classic
1997-2003 Malibu
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Cadillac
1986-1993 Allante
1982-1996 Fleetwood
1985-1996 Fleetwood Brougham
1992-2004 Seville
1992-2004 SLS/STS
1985-1999 Deville
1994-1999 Deville Concours
1997-1999 Deville D'Elegance
1988-2002 ElDorado
1994-2002 ElDorado Touring
1999-2007 Escalade
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Saturn
2000 LS/LS1/LS2/LW1/LW2
2001-2002 L100/LW100
2001-2003 L200/LW200
2001-2005 L300/LW300
2004-2005 L-Series
2002-2008 VUE
1996-2002 SL/SL1/SL2
1996-2002 SC1/SC2
1996-2002 SW1/SW2

scan diagnostic codes for more insight and clear them. possible crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor issue. Good luck!

this is because its not fully shifting back into 2 Hi. make sure vehicle is in neutral and idling, push the 4 Low button listen for a shifting sound or whirring noise. then push 2 Hi button. it flashes while it is attempting to shift you should hear a shifting clunk or whirring noise, then the light will stay lit. after shifting from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive shift into reverse before selecting drive on the column. the rpm going so high is because your vehicle is still in 4 wheel drive. the low gearing results in high rpm. if it does not shift into 2 wheel drive : there is a shift actuator on the transfer case, check the cable connected to it. this cable is connected to the vacuum control pump deal that controls you cruise control. this pump is located directly under the battery box. the plate the battery sits on must be removed in order to see it. check any wiring there and check for vacuum leaks in the lines connected to it . this pump actually pulls on the cable going to the shift actuator. check that the cable is attached and the baffle on the pump is moving. you can manually pull the cable by hand, while having an assistant operate the buttons inside the cab. this will release the actuator in the transfer case allowing the transfer case to shift properly. basically its a locking mechanism, locking the transfer case in the selected gear range. it must actuate in order to complete the shift

Permanent removal would be to disconnect front prop shaft. Get under, usually four, half inch nuts either side. Loosen and remove.

The universal harness with four wires assumes that the brake lights and turn signals use the same bulbs. If your Blazer has separate bulbs for rear turn signals and brake lights, this 'universal' harness will not work unless you buy a separate adapter to merge the power to the brake lamps and turn signals for the trailer.

OBDII scanners for the home DIY guy only scan powertrain codes ... and not body codes .... which is where the airbag code(s) would go. Scanners that do both are expensive. I would call a local auto parts place that advertises that they will scan for free ... but ask them if their scanner can read body codes related to the air bag. If they say yes ... I would take it to them and to narrow down your troubleshooting ... since the airbag light can go on for a bunch of reasons and you do not want to just throw parts at it. Helpful? Good luck with your troubleshooting!

adjuster is on the front cable before the split into 2 If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541

The wiring for these headlights is complicated. The body control module (BCM) controls whether the headlights should be on or off depending on the ambient light sensor readings. Your headlight switch should override this if switched to on - if it doesn't do this, the headlight power relay may be faulty. The daytime running lamps (DRLs) are also controlled by the BCM and a DRL relay, also controlled by readings from the ambient light sensor. If they will not come on, the DRL relay may be faulty. However, the root cause could be a fuse, faulty light sensor, headlight switch, or BCM. I would start by checking the fuses and checking/replacing the two relays.

This sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Is the engine running smoothly? Have you checked the injectors? What warning lights are on the dashboard? Running the engine at idle, put some injector cleaner through the system. The only other reason could be a faulty engine sensor of some kind.

Depends on the system. It is impossible to drive a true 4 wheel drive vehicle on the road due to wind-up between the axles so first a unidirectional clutch was fitted into the front drive to prevent wind-up but the main problem of one wheel losing traction and the whole vehicle becoming stuck remained. Over the decades differential locks and/or limited slip differentials have been fitted to overcome the basic problems. In more modern times refinements, often to cut costs, such as viscous couplings have been used to produce automatic or part time 4 wheel drive vehicles and the development of abs and later more powerful computers added traction control systems. Jacking each wheel in turn from the ground should reveal whether drive is being transmitted to it. When there is a centre differential lock or it is of the limited slip variety, using a jack with good wheels and on smooth ground lift first the front and then the rear and attempt to drive. If it is working in each case the vehicle will move and should roll the jack along the floor. The front and rear differential locks can be tested in a similar fashion but 3 wheels will need to be raised.

Is it possible the lever for linkage got whacked and is bent?

fuse or relay. bad wiring

indicates a problem PCB unit run the fault codes to determine the fault area

No , it's not the PCM . Battery light on means a problem with the charging system (alternator) And maybe the insturment cluster . Before you start replacing parts the vehicle doesn't need ,take it to a qualified repair shop .cost less in the long run .

It,s either over full or in need of a rebuild.

If I remember correctly, they are a light press fit with a "swedge" in the inside to secure it......you may have to epoxy it in place.. This is what I use... its comes in different "setting times" ....you should be able to purchase this at walmart, home depot, Lowes, hardware store...etc..it wil work.. DEVCON 2 TON EPOXY 84fl oz SYRINGE Walmart com

The New Venture Gear Model NV233 is an electronically controlled optional transfer case for use on four wheel drive T trucks. The driver selects 2HI, 4HI, or 4LO by pushing one of three illuminating shift select buttons mounted on the instrument panel. The shift select buttons display the transfer case mode and range, self-test, diagnostic trouble codes, and electronic shift mechanical engaging problems. During normal driving the transfer case is in the 2HI mode. When the transfer case is in the 2HI mode. When the transfer case is in 2HI both the 4HI and 4LO switch circuits are open, and both lights are OFF. When the four-wheel drive shift select button has been pressed, the four-wheel drive indicator lamp under the sift select button turns ON when the front axle has engaged. The shift select button will blink while the front axle is engaging. This is a normal condition. The shifting of the transfer case is performed by a motor/encoder that receives drive signals from the transfer case control module (TCCM). When the driver selects one of the transfer case shift select buttons, request signals are sent to the TCCM. If the correct input signals exists, the TCCM will send drive voltages to the motor/encoder. The motor/encoder will position the transfer case to the ordered shift position. Transfer Case Control Module Description The TCCM performs the following functions: • Receives input signals • Processes the signal information • Develops output signals • Sends the output signal in order to control the shifting of the transfer case The TCCM receives input signals from the following sources: • The transfer case shift select buttons • The NSBU switch on the vehicles with automatic transmissions • The clutch position switch on the vehicles with manual transmissions • The vehicle sped sensor calibrator module • The encoder/motor range and the mode feedback signals • The diagnostic enable • The front axle mechanical status signal In order to ensure the electronic shift system is operating properly, the transfer case control module (TCCM) continually performs diagnostics checks on itself and other parts of the electronic shift system when the ignition switch is in the run position. The following are different types of system checks that the TCCM continually performs. Data Memory Retention Check The TCCM checks the stored diagnostic trouble code memory to see if the memory has changed since the ignition switch was last positioned to OFF. This self test checks in order to see if the RAM standby power supply has been interrupted. If the TCCM detects a RAM standby power supply interruption, (the loss of stored diagnostic trouble code) the TCCM stores a DTC of 1 indicating RAM standby power failure. This condition occurs when the TCCM is disconnected from the wiring harness or battery power is removed. The DTC of 1 automatically clears from the TCCM after cycling the ignition switch ON and OFF five times. Before replacing parts you should test the system ! Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Displaying The transfer case shift control module is equipped with the ability to store diagnostic information, which is useful to a technician in the event of module, component or wiring failures. This information can be retrieved from the transfer case shift control module by way of flash codes, which are displayed on the three transfer case shift control switch buttons. These buttons are located on the instrument panel to the right of the steering wheel Before obtaining DTCs, perform the following transfer case control module (TCCM) Self-Test. TCCM Self-Test Observe the transfer case shift control switch indicators while turning the ignition switch to RUN. A properly operating system will flash all indicators and then will return to the current gear. If the system is operating normally, then proceed to Displaying Codes. If the TCCM failed the Self-Test, then test the following circuits. • Battery Positive Voltage (40 and 1640), and Ignition 3 Voltage for battery voltage • Ground Circuit for ground • Diagnostic enable circuit for an open or high resistance • Transfer case shift control switch connector If the above circuits are normal but the TCCM still fails the Self-Test, replace the TCCM. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement . DTC Displaying Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds. Connect PIN 13 on the data link cable (DLC) to a ground. The DLC is located in the cab under the instrument panel on the driver's side. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Observe the transfer case shift control switch select buttons for flashing codes. Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List . Important: If the transfer case shift control switch buttons all blink only once and then stop, no fault codes are stored in the transfer case shift control module. • When one DTC is stored in memory, that code will blink that number of times followed by a 3 second pause and then repeat. • If more than one code is stored, the first code will blink, followed by a 3 second pause and then the second code will blink. • This sequence will continue until PIN 13 on the DLC is no longer grounded. • If the TCCM will not communicate the presence or absence of DTCs, test the above circuits in Self-Test Step 2. If the circuits are complete, then replace the TCCM. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Module Replacement . Is the 4WD fuse # 15 -10 amp located in the I/P fuse box good ?