1996 Chevrolet C/K 3500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

REMOVE TRANSFER CASE AND TRANSMISSION/BELL HOUSING UNBOLT CLUTCH

too many possibilities. IE: fuel pump relay, ignition relay, Coils, wiring failure, bad starter, fuel pump, fuel filter. The list goes on and on. A local GM experienced mechanic can eliminate most of these within minutes with an inspection.

Bad shift solenoid in transmissiin is my guess

HelloThe Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

Seal the threads of the new bolt with loctite brand thread sealer, it is available from most auto parts stores. Don't worry many engine have bolts that go into the water jacket by design.

The balance fuel pump is supplied power from the ignition E fuse. Power then goes through the balance pump relay which is controlled by the balance pump module. let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

sorry about poor resolution on FixYa.

where ever its from its BAD and Expensive. The axle bearings are on the ends, near the wheels, the pinion is where the drive shaft is bolted to, there are 2 pinion bearings and 2 carrier bearings. It has to come apart. You may be better to put a used one in, or get a shop that does differential work to take it apart and estimate repairs.

Was it originaly a 305? If so then the Electronic Spark Control (ESC), PROM and fuel injectors should be changed to 350 stuff.
Any pinging? Check Engine light?
Maybe take the ignitoon module out and have it tested at an Auto Zone. Without being able to do a hands on diag I am guessing maybe an issue with spark advance when under a load.

Another guess would be a low tank of fuel on a steep hill. Could it be starvation?

Bad fuel pump ?? take off gas cap while listening into gas tank have someone turn key on if you hear a buzzing noise thats NOT your problem

Does the engine appear to be overheating? Signs of engine overheating are :
1. Sluggish engine operation when hot.
2. Detonation upon acceleration (pinging).
3. Coolant boiling in overflow tank.
If any of these symptoms are present, then place a cooking thermometer on the upper radiator hose where it connects to the engine. Tape the thermometer to the hose to hold it in place. Run the engine until operating temperature is reached. The temperature should stay between approx. 195deg.F and 225deg.F. If it goes over 230deg.F, then overheating is indicated. Before shutting off the engine, check to see if the engine cooling fan is running. If not, then turn on the AC switch and see if it comes on. If the fan still does not turn on, then a faulty cooling fan or fan circuit is indicated. Other causes of hard/no start when hot include :
1. Dirty air filter.
2. Bad temperature sensor (computer).
3. Bad map sensor.
4. Bad EGR valve.
5. Failing ignition module.
6. Leaking injector(s)
If the vehicle is used primarily as a work vehicle, then it might be overdue for an oil change.
If the oil is fuel soaked, then it can cause an over rich mixture during hot restart.
I hope that this information is helpful and thank you for using Fixya.com.
CAUTION : Be careful when working around a running engine. Keep hands and loose clothing away from moving engine parts and engine cooling fan.

i would remove rear cover plate to axle ( pig ) and check for ring and pinion gear or spider gears for broken teeth. Or are you sure it's not a posi gone bad ? i would think that you have a problem with the pinion gear and or ring gear.

Replace the PMD

HotRod O---{oII] DieselPro

FIRST REMOVE ALL OLD FLUID FROM CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU CAN USE A SIPHON YOU HAND PUMP.AUTO PARTS STORES SELLS THE HAND PUMP SIPHONS. THEY DONT COST MUCH AND KEEP FROM MAKING A MESS.SIPHON OUT MUCH AS YOU CAN THE OLD FLUID IN THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.THEN POUR IN THE NEW FLUID DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID IN CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.OKAY YOU NEED A HELPER.LOCATE THE SLAVE CYLINDER.REMOVE SLAVE CYLINDER HOLD SLAVE CYLINDER 45 DEGREES WITH BLEEDER SCREW LOCATED AT THE HIGHEST POINT.HAVE A SMALL DRAIN PAN UNDER SLAVE CYLINDER.HAVE HELPER FULLY DEPRESS AND HOLD THE CLUTCH PEDAL THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW.CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND HAVE HELPER RELEASE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.REPEAT THIS PROCESS UNTIL ALL THE OLD BRAKE FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES LEAVES THE HYDRALIC SYSTEM AND WHEN YOU CAN SEE GOOD STREAM CLEAN FLUID NO BUBBLES YOU HAVE GOOD SOLID CLUTCH ALL IS GOOD.MAKE SURE THROUGH THE BLEEDING PROCESS YOU DONT LET CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER.KEEP CLUTCH MASTER CYLINER FULL BRAKE FLUID WHILE DOING THE WHOLE BLEEDING AND FLUSHING PROCESS.

if air has gotten in the abs unit you will need a scanner capable of running pump to bleed out. for starters do a gravity bleed by opening bleeder at caliper to get most air out of system keep it open until fluid drips out and do same at rear. be sure resevoir stays full.

not difficult, but you have to know what you are doing. you will need to check the rotation torque of the pinion beraings before and after, to set the proper preload,

start by checking the wires right behind your headlight switch. the driving lights wire does go though the headlight switch and its prone to fail because chevy i regret to say ******up on this one. i have seen 3 different trucks from a 97 to 98 that did this and i think your 96 is the same. you may see melted wires behid the switch or just blacked but thats the first place to look im not sure if it happend often enough to be a recal but i think it should be because its a safty isue just like the wipers. if the wires all look good the check the headlight switch itself out realy good. there is a lot of current going through small wires and small contacts. also check your fuse box. the wires behind it mostly. its common to have a short there but will typicaly make things stay on because they short to power not to ground having that many wires in that small spot. i hope this helps some. thats the first place i would look

The distributor cap is a common problem on these truck an may need to be replaced.Also the catalytic converter may be plugged or pieces from the inside of it may have worked there way to the muffler and choked it off.These are the most common problems for power loss.

does it have filter looking thing between hose going to brake booster if does replece it . do you vacuum at booster .

hello there:
You will need to replace the brake booster to correct the problem in order to do this you will need to remove the push rod from you're brake arm separate the master cylinder from the booster and remove the four bolts on the booster and slide it out install in reverse hope this help you out sincerely D.Jones