20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet C/K 3500 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

A qualified repair shop.

First thing have the tranny control module checked for fault codes, if nothing shows up have the transmission fluid and filter changed and check the trans plug for water intrusion, if that fails to show anything you likely have a failed transmission and will need to have it rebuild. Expect to pay about $3000.00 to have it rebuilt.

You, Probably will, Brake Squeal is NOT a new problem.
Disc brake's have been Squealing since, They, became
factory installed on chevrolet in 1971. Before, that they,
were a option. In 72 they even had a bulleton how, to
FIX it. And, no it didn't work.
With That said, Any time you replace Brake pads you,
should always re-surface the Rotors.
Why? First you may start to notice a pulsation as the
pads ware (sometimes! ) The best way to avoid, brake
squeal is to manchine the Rotors put, the blue membrain
sealent on the back side of the pads. And hope that works!!
Some brakes Pads squeal JUST SQUEAL??
You, Could do the same Brake job the same as you did
this one and, they may NOT Squeal.WHY, I WISH I NEW. They
sell all types of STUFF to stop Brake noice DON'T waste your $$.

replace it would be a fix details are in the workshop manual as to where it is , and test procedures

You just go to the link I attached I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem https://www.reliable-store.com/products/1990-1991-1992-1993-1994-1995-1996-chevrolet-corvette-workshop-service-repair-manual

If you're not losing any brake fluid then it sounds to me as though the master cylinder is bleeding fluid between to two chambers allowing fluid to pass from one to the other which would decrease the pressure on one of the lines leading to the proportioning valve, thus setting off the 'brake' light. Orrrrr, IF it does NOT have the hydroboost system the following steps MAY help diagnose if it's a booster problem. (Copied and pasted from a youtube comment) Test 1) 1. Start the car 2. Let it idle for 2 minutes 3. After 2 minutes turn off the car 4. Pump the brake pedal 3 times 5. The pedal should rise every time if it does then the Booster and Check valve are OK 6. If the pedal doesn't then the is an issue with the either one, run tests 1 and 2. Test 2) 1. Start the car 2. Let it idle for 2 Minutes 3. After 2 minutes push down the brake pedal and HOLD it 4. While holding the pedal down turn off the car 5. The pedal should NOT rise for at least 30 seconds 6. If it doesn't rise then the Check Valve is good 7. If the pedal rises before 30 seconds then the Check Valve is faulty. Test 3) 1. Shut off the Engine 2. Pump the brake pedal 4 times 3. On the 4th one keep it pushed down and start the car while holding the pedal down 4. The pedal should sink down. 5. If it sinks, the booster is Fine. Myself, I'm leaning towards the master cylinder having an internal 'leak' or bypass problem. Hope this helps.

check vaccum more air gets more fuel

Check for vacuum leaks. See tips at first link below. There is a test for the tps at the second link. Do It Yourself Repair Guides Fuel Injected Electronic Engine Controls Throttle Position...

Do you have a tuner on the truck? Perhaps a bullydog?

P0102-mass or volume air flow circuit low input p0108-manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit high input P0113-intake air temperature circuit high input p2563-turbocharger boost control position sensor'a' circuit range/performance

Drivers side under dash

Turn signal/ multifunction switch. Replace it. All the exterior lights run threw it except the high mount brake light. Check the brake lights. If the high mount works and the others don't . That is a sure sign.

Most if not all break light switch's connect on the brake pedal arm.