20 Most Recent 1978 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

1984 350 (5.7L) V8 engine—4bbl federal and high altitude with automatic transmission


Let me know a few specifics for an EXACT diagram for you....transmission, carb size, things like that.....you can also email me [email protected] and I can send you more. FREE--NO CHARGE!!!

the diaphragm in the pump has a hole in it and fuel is pumping into engine. replace the pump and change oil.

The diaphragm in the fuel pump is bad. The fuel pump will need replaced. The pump has a rubber diaphragm that pulls the fuel from the tank and pumps it in the block instead of the carb.

Gotta bleed it. It's been written up a thousand times, google "how bleed brakes" and you're set for a little studying.

If you have trouble freeing the bleeder fittings, try: a 3/8" impact, set it very low and let it tap away. Sometimes they'll turn after a couple of minutes of steady application of the impact. If you don't have an impact and you fear breaking the fitting, grab it with a little pair of Vise-grips and tap the vise-grip handle in the proper direction. Just keep tapping, it can take a few minutes. Clamp the pliers on tightly, don't let them slip- they'll really eat that little bleeder quick if you let them slip.

Don't mess around with junk locking pliers from the exotic Orient, they are pretty much without value. The only Vise-grips worth owning is the originals, and the 5" version is incredibly useful for things like breaking the little brake bleeder fittings loose.

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1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2

You may have a heater valve that is on one of your heater core hoses may be bad.

try autozone

Hello

I have had this problem twice and both times it turned out to be a bad condenser. You can buy the complete tune up kit and it will have the condenser inside, And some people just buy the one part. Either way should get you back up and running.

I hope this saves your weekend

It could be either the engine, catylitic convertor if the smoke is black. If the smoke coming out is white it could be engine coolant problem. If it is not getting enough power it could be the carburator not getting enough gas.

Are you able to manually move the blend air door to the hot position. It may not be moving into position all the way. Confirm while sliding the lever back and forth that the cable is moving the door enough. This will take you loking at the location of the blend air cable mounting to the heater box.

replace the turn signal switch in the colume

Manually operate the choke mechanism and watch to make sure it fully releases. Quite often mistakes can occur when putting the pieces back together and it won't fully release off fast idle.Are you absolutely positive that you didn't forget an o- ring or ball when you put the carb back together? Is there any chance there is a gasket upside down? Could the power valve be in wrong? These types of things could create that problem, there is too much gas going through your idle circuit.What happens when you turn in the idle screws? Are you sure about the timing? I don't have specs for a 1/2 ton but all the specs in my Chilton give me 6 degrees in California and 8 degrees everywhere else. These numbers cover all models of cars for a 1978 350. Hope this helps.

4 degrees before TDC

This carb does not seem like a factory carb. One place to get a parts exploded view is to get a rebuild kit, they have one included.

http://www.delcoremy.com/pdfs/service_manuals/legacy/1G-290.pdf

Fuel pump

i thank your starter is bowned up

mcdevito75 here, The fast idle is needed when the engine is cold to make the air and fuel mixture rich to keep the engine running while cold, the carb. choke doew this with a bi-metalic spring in that balck round box on the side of the carb, a screw also hepls keep the choke closed until warm up, this screw can be adjusted tpo control how tight it holds the choke cloesed, here"s how to adjust this screw to slow fast idle speed, Locate on the carb, where the gas pedal connects, have a friend operate the gas pedal with the engine off, once you locate the linkage, you"ll also see 2 screws with springs around them, 1 is for fast idle the other for regular idle, you want the fast idle screw, notice this screw will lay against and Half moon shaped tab, while the other screw lays against a shaft, you need the screw that lays against the half moon shaped tab. Start the engine and step on the gas pedal slightly and relaease, at the screw that lays against this half moon, simply turn it counter clockwise or toward you just 1 2 or 3 turns very slowly, you'll hear the fast idle come down but you don"t want the fast idle to low, listen to the engine very carefully, slow it down just a bit, it should still race though but not out of control. Of course for a full carb, adjustment the shop should handle that., but this info will help.

I think you have the wrong starter on your vehicle... remove it before your flywheel/electrical system is damaged! Take it back to the place you got it and ask them to help you resolve it.