20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It's not unusual for these pumps to make a whining noise when under high load, such as at end of travel of the steering links. Yes, the gear box could be part of the problem, but first I would carefully check all the steering linkage tie rod ends - one or more of them could be badly worn or stating to seize due to lack of lubrication.

There are a number of videos on youtube for EVAP problems ! What wasthe CODE ! There are no codes for what you have listed EVAP canister or hose cracked-not connected and the vaccum leak at engine. Purge valve , vent valve , small leak , large leak . Automotive Evaporative Emissions Part One Wells EVAP Training with Sgt Tech P0440 P0441 P0442 etc Taking to a qualified repair shop that test's the system an replaces the only part needed . Testing not guessing

replacing the barrel or keys will jot solve the problem as you will still have to get them programmed to the immobilizer system there is a method of bypassing the immobilizer to get it to a service center I suspect that the problem is in the keys ( flat batteries in the key fob )or the immobilizer needs to be programmed to the keys again possible a reset of the ECM using a scan tool may help there

You may have a high resistance problem , voltage drop testing is the way to find on which side of the circuit B+ or ground has the problem ! Do you have an know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? How to use wiring diagrams an read one ? Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia Watch these training videos ! Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Free wiring diagrams at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter your vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Then under system click on lighting , then under subsystem click on headlamps .Hit the search button ,then click on the link . If watch the voltage drop video an follow thier direction you will find which side has the problem . Checking has to be do with the headlamps on . Good luck , an test don't guess .

Well, If you located a dead cylinder, have you decided if the problem on that cylinder is spark--fuel--compression? If you have good spark, check fuel pressure. If you have that spider fuel system, that system is noted for problems.

disconnect cable at the transmission. pull the shift lever on trans to lowest gear. do the same inside the car. adjust cable to fit. make sure it goes into park easily and completely

Is the check engine light lit ? How many miles on the vehicle ? Is the transmission fluid level correct ? Could be the reverse band or clutch is worn to much , in which case you would need to have it overhauled .

How do you know it's getting gas ? check fuel pressure . Are the injectors firing ? Spray some carb. cleaner into the engine , through the throttle plate , to see if it starts . Any lights lit on the instrument cluster ? SECURITY ?

On the back of the case under the vehicle there is a fill plug, remove it, fill the case with the approved fluid to the just below the threads of the fill plug opening.

From WikiAnswers for a 1997 model - - You will need the following tools:Steering wheel puller Torx bits (get a set, you need 3 sizes) Inverted Torx ( a set is available at Schucks/Kragen/Checker Screwdriver A few zip ties Wire cuttersDISCONNECT THE BATTERYStart by disconnecting the yellow wire under the dash for the airbag. Now turn the steering wheel 90 degrees to access the underside of the steering wheel. You will have to insert a smaller size flat blade screw driver into the 4 holes on the back of the steering wheel and rotate them to release the airbag. Now remove the nut holding the steering wheel on and remove the steering wheel. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE AIRBAG MODULE!! Now remove the lower column cover with 2 Torx screws. You will now have access to 2 inverted Torx screws that hold the top column cover in place. Remove the hold-down ring that holds the cover to the shaft. Look on the top of the ignition cylinder housing and find the small hole. Insert a small Allen wrench into the hole and turn the key to "run" position and the ignition cylinder will come out, now the top cover will come off, giving access to the ignition switch. You will need the smallest inverted Torx bit for the 2 screws that hold the ignition switch in. You will have to cut a couple of zip ties to free the wiring. Now get a Torx bit and a 7mm socket and remove the lower dash panels to get access to the wiring harness. You will need the 7mm to unscrew a bolt that holds the connector together under the dash. Just follow the wiring to see what I mean. Once the connector is loose, you will see two plastic strips that run along side the connector. These are easy to remove and slide off, and are keyed so you cannot reinstall them wrong. Hope this helps.Great answer/directions listed above. I would add that one can use a 3/16" section of brake line to get the two e3 or e4 external torx screws out (holds the ignition switch on) instead of buying the whole kit. Buy a 6" or 8" section of brake line, cut in half, take the cut end and "lightly tap" it on (with a small hammer) the torx head. The metal brake line is soft enough to form around the head. Take a pliers and spin off........they are not that tight nor hard to get off. Otherwise you need to buy the whole smaller external torx kit (2") and most places don't carry them.. as above I just did the job also and in fact used his answer.Good luckRead more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_the_ignition_switch_on_a_1997_Chevy_S-10_Blazer#ixzz1zDg1cc9p