Top 20 2004 Chevrolet Venture Passanger - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The power to brake lightlights goes through the signal switch, have some one watch while you hold brake pedal and wiggle signal lever to see if lights come on, if they do then its a bad signal switch, also check to make sure the hazard button is not on, try turning on the 4way flasher and then try brake

The wiper motor needs to be replace the switch to stop them in the down position is built into the motor.

First you need to remove the cotter pin and the nut from the tie rod end where it goes through the steering knuckle.Next step is to loosen the jam nut on the other end of the joint.At this point you need to use a tie rod separator tool(it looks like a giant tuning fork) to break the tapper shaft out of it's mount.If you don't have the right tool then you need to put the nut back on a few turns and then alternately tap the nut and the mount with a hammer until it pops out.Remove the nut ant the tie rod end and mark the threads with a paint marker or count the visible threads so that the new one can be put back in the right spot or you will need to take it in for an alignment.

Had neighbor look at this same problem. Turned out the shifter cable linkage near the top of transmission had popped off. They popped it back on and works but a bushing in the clip probably needs replaced. The neighbor rewched over engined top between firewall and engine and popped it back on.
Works fine but does needs a clip/bushing part and auto parts store has to get from Chevy

the vehicle speed sensor needs replaced. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

your fuel filter should be located below the vehicle on the left side. Most Chilton books cover this procedure. The fittings if not too rusted should allow you to release the fuel line from each end. Many newer vehicles have plastic sleeves that usually require a special removal tool to get them out. I just use a small scribe and flat tip screw driver when tool is available. Most auto parts stores have the tool if needed. Hope this helped. Happy 4th of July

Hi Friend:

#1) First determine where the Leak is Located Use a Leak detector from your Local Parts Store.

#2) The Leak could be a A/C High or Low Presure Line.or could be a Rubber O-Ring Mainly Where your Lines are Conected to the A/C Compressor.

#3) Anytime a A/C System Has a Leak ,Fix the Leak 1st then you Need to Evacute the System By using a Vacum Tool.

#4) You probely don't have this-Almost any Repair Shop has the Right Equiptment.

#5) Assuming th Leak has been found and Repaired and the System Vacumed Down.

#6) To Recharge your System if your doing this.You'll need to buy R-34 Make Sure it Has a Gauge on it.Also Your A/C System wil need to Have The Refrigent Rechare NOTE: also it will need Oil put ack into the System.

#7) You Can buy the R-34 With the Oil in the Same Rechagre Can=With Gauge.

#8) Locate your Low Side Line Look at the Lines Coming from the Firewall and Trace the Lines and You Will see a Plastic Cap With a (L) on it This is your Low Sideor (suction side)

#9) Remove the Cap you'll see what looks like a Valve Core to Air your Tires up.

#10 Start your Enging Turn your A/C on High or Maximum Cool and the Fan on High. The R-34 has a Quick Connect on the Hose ,JUst pull it back nwhile Putting it on your Low Side Recharge Valve.Be Sure you Shake the Can before connecting it.

#11) After Connected Turn Can Upside Down Shaking it as The System is Recharging.

#12) Watch the Gauge on the R-34 Don't Over fill it,Stay with in The Green on the Gauge.

#13) Remove connector from the Coolant Line and You Should Have Cold Air Providing everything else on your A/C System is Working Properly>

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Clean the carbon out of the intake, and the EGR ports, use some carb cleaner and gently use a coat hanger for the smaller hole, toothbrush for the rest. They are probably clogged. Take the EGR valve back off to do this and the air tube off of the throttlebody, you can open the butterfly by hand and clean that too while you are in there.

check for a belt routing diagram under the hood.

The problem with doing an after market stereo yourself is that your door chimes run through the stereo speakers amongst other things controlled by the body control module.. You may be better off picking up a used one from a salvage yard and saving yourself some headaches.

take a copy of your title to a chevy dealer they can use the vin to make you a new key and require the title as proof of legal ownership. this can be kind of pricey. also if the tumbler has a number on it usually 3 digits but can be 4, most lock smiths can use that number and your cars model and year to make a new key. if it has a rf chip in it, or you want your power locks button back the dealer is the only real option. places like best buy who install power locks may be able to code a new remote but it probably wont be much cheaper than the dealer.

yeah hose and clamps are the cheap easy way to go there, or if your lucky, the leak is right at the spot where the hose meets the metal and you can just cut the end off and put it back with the old clamp

you dont tell me what part of the world you live in.ie,very dry climate,.where the arms come out of the car body, spray a silicon spray into the wiper arms and see what happens you will be shocked.adrian,,,,,

Hi, you are exactly right with the problem it could be a bad selenoid or even blocked breather, the problem you have is that to get to these parts your going to need to remove the tank, you could look in the boot/trunk and look under the carpet and check if their is an inspection panel for the fuel sender unit, their may be one for the sender unit so have a check.

im not 100% sure if you can get to the selenoid or the breather from their but you could look first before you remove the tank.

if it comes to it and you need to remove the tank then you need to remember that you need the car up high enough off the floor to enable you to get the tank low enough to get to the parts you need to get to, you could use some ramps but i dont think a jack and axle stands would lift the car enough to enable you to get access to the top of the tank.

you also need to make sure the tank is empty before you remove it as it will be to heavy to manage with any fuel left in it, you will then need to undo the feed and return hose from the engine and where the filler cap is you need to undo any screws in their to enable the filler tube to lower when the tank is lowerd. so once you have the pipes off you should clamp them to stop any fuel spillage you will also need a bucket to drain any fuel out of the tank or even plug the pipe with a bolt to prevent the fuel from draining out the tank, once you have done this you need to undo the straps holding the tank, you will need 2 people to do the job as you need to lower the tank and then undo the electric connectors to the sender unit so as not to break them then you should be able to lower the tank enough to get to the breather hose and the solenoid, the tank solenoid is located where the breather hose is so if you remove the breather hose and try blowing through it if its blocked then soak it in hot water to free up anything blocking it then make sure its not blocked before putting it back on.

If its not blocked then the solenoid will need replacing this can be done once the tanks is lowered.

if you do need to put fuel in your car then the only option you have is to buy one of those emergency fuel containers you carry around in case you run out of fuel then fill this up and you should then be able to fill your car up doing it this way.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Your rear end is most likely cause of this. There is a plate gasket on the back, and 3 rubber gaskets that go on either axle and the drive shaft that would be leaking. I would do a closer inspection to see which one is leaking and replace it as soon as possible because depending on how fast the leak is if the rear end runs out of fluid the bearings could burn up and it isnt cheap to fix that. Hope that helps!

lubricate the sides of window and check the wiring.

Go to your auto parts store and get the repair book for your model car. The book is not expensive and will give you great info. on how to repair anything on your car. A must have for the do it yourselfer..

Have you checked the brake fluid level?

check linkage on top of transmission and make sure it moves while engaging shift lever. You may have also left a light on while doing work on van, check all interior lights that may still be on.

sounds like you have a wiring problem-they are bad for the harnesses rubbing through and shorting out under the hood-if you remove the air filter housing you will see the silver ac accumulator and a harness very close to it-check all those wires for bare spots