Top 20 2004 Chevrolet Tracker - Page 9 Questions & Answers

CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE WHILE ENGINE IDLING SHOULD BE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS. WHEN LIGHTS FLICKERING MEANING BATTERY VOLTAGE FLUTUATING THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR IN ALTERNATOR GETTING READY TO SHORT OUT.

if its rolling like its not in any gear then its not in any gear, its in neutral! this means that your neutral safety bypass switch is defective. on most later model car after you start the car you have to depress the brake pedal switch first before it will allow you to move the lever.try cycling the break pedal a few times with the key in the on position if it doesn't work you will have to have it checked by a dealer due to safety concerns.
on earlier model cars when i would run into this problem if you lifted up slightly counterclockwise on the lever it will sometimes allow you to start the car. does the car at least start?

what do you mean "anything" headlights? horn? dash lights? what year? make? model? engine?

Hi

Brake light switch either out of adjustment or defective Should be located at upper end of brake pedal under dash.
On the arm of the brake pedal you'll see a button type switch. It needs to be against the arm with the button pushed in. When the brake is applied the button comes out and the lights come on. Most of the time you can just slide it back down in place with your fingers. Most commonly what happens is that people will get there foot under the pedal and accidentally knock the peddle up pushing the switch out of adjustment.

Stuck headlight relay causes the headlight to stay on. For the headlights to remain on even after switching the headlight switch off would point at either the headlight relay sticking, or more likely a problem with the integration relay that controls the headlight relay and performs the shutoff when the driver's door opens. Ask a repair person to investigate the issue, related to this probable reason.

Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.
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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Fuel filler hose and vent hose
   • Fuel tank inlet valve and drain the fuel tank
   • Fuel filter inlet hose
   • Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) vapor hose
   • Fuel return line
   • Fuel tank skidplate
   • Fuel pump connector
   • Fuel tank pressure sensor connector
   • Fuel tank
   • Fuel pump module
   To install:
   
4. Install or connect the following:
   • Fuel pump module with a new seal. Tighten the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
   • Fuel tank. Tighten the strap bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
   • Fuel tank pressure sensor connector
   • Fuel pump connector
   • Fuel tank skidplate
   • Fuel return line
   • EVAP vapor hose
   • Fuel filter inlet hose
   • Fuel tank inlet valve and drain the fuel tank
   • Fuel filler hose and vent hose
   • Negative battery cable
5. Fill the fuel tank.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

track the top hose from the radiator back to the engine where it should run into a rounded housing. This is the thermostat housing. Next time the vehicle shows its running close to 180 or higher (dont let it get too hot or your engine will fail completely)
With the engine to temp, squeeze the upper radiator house. If it is hard then your have pressure running through the line, so then check the lower one. If no pressure, its your water pump.

if hose can be squeezed, then the thermostat is not opening and allowing the coolant to circulate. Smack the housing a few times with some hard and blunt until you feel pressure in the hose again, or the temp gauge begins to regulate (if this is the case, you need a new thermostat; they are about $5 at any auto parts store......just remember to replace the gaskets while your at it)

GOOD LUCK AND PLS RATE THIS POST!!!!!!

Are you tray to reset unplugged the negative cord from battery? Its possible that you are activated (armed) theft/passlock inmobilizer system? Any other wrong before to this fault? When the "check engine" lights turn on, any specific OBD code there? Scanning puy ECU/PCM for knowed.

I would recommend taking car of it now. Oil or any flammable type liquid could potentially cause a fire if it gets on the exhaust manifold. Besides keeping your engine clean makes it easier to spot when there is a worse problem.
Sometimes you can just remove covers clean gasket, if not torn, add gasket sealer and re-install. But new gaskets are not that expensive anyway. Good Luck!

It never hurts to take care of oil leaks before they make a mess of your engine compartment. Personally if it was me, id be getting them changed.

Yes it can. Usually a cam sensor (on GM's) will cause it to go into 'limp' mode. I do believe it is a timing belt on this model. Hopefully that did not break. If it did the engine would definately sound "different" while trying to start.

get a roller/seal bearen replacement bearen seal 70 to 100 $ but it will work its 3 inch long by how big the hole is

Check the 4wd moter at transfer case. For power in and power out, also
check the 4wd switch, on top of the transfer case for power. Make sure
the output shaft is turning into the differential. If it is use an oil filter
wrench to remove the front hub cover. Check for any grease buildup or
anything that might obstruct the axel from sliding all the way into the hub gear. The best way to check these is to have it in the air (all 4 wheels) this way you can hear and see if it's the transfer case or the
front axel kicking out. I hope I was of some help. Good luck.
todytwo

I assume battery is working and starter is turning the engine and you are getting fuel to the injectors ( did you check the pressure ?), here are the things to check:

• Make sure you got spark, meaning to check on the spark plugs(worn or incorrectly gapped) and spark plug wires and making sure the ignition coil is not faulty (broken, loose or disconnected wires). also make sure none of ignition components is not damp or wet.
• Make sure the timing belt is not stripped or broken.
• Defective crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor or PCM.

Have a look at it and let me know if you need more advice. Best

it sounds like a bad sensor to me or even something wrong with the brakes you may want to have it looked at@!

The locking hub control system is not engaging properly. On the 99 Tracker this is a compressed air system that consists of an air pump (compressor), electrical wiring to power and control the air pump, and air hoses that lead to an actuator inside the front differential housing. If there is a leak in the system the PCM will run the air pump for 10 seconds and then shut off, and your propeller shaft can turn all day long, but the front axles will remain free floating. Turn on your key, not your engine, and engage four wheel high. Go listen near the passenger front bumper for the air compressor. If you hear it, then the compressor control and the compressor itself are likely fine. If it shuts off after 10 secs or so, and your 4WD light isn’t on, the PCM timed out the compressor out and shut the compressor off to protect it. You will have to find the leak and fix it. If you are lucky, it’s the air line leading to the front differential; and not the air line inside the differential housing, or the air bladder in the locking actuator, which also resides inside the font diff. If the compressor shuts off and the 4WD light is on (this means the PCM did not shut the air compressor off due to timeout, so the pressure switch read 5-7 psi and the pump shut itself off), you likely don’t have a leak, and something mechanical has the actuator hung up inside the front differential. Lastly if you don't hear the compressor run at all, you either have a faulty compressor, or some sort of wiring problem in that circuit.....it could be as simple as a blown fuse. Good luck.

thats the idea of the magnetic drain plug to capture any swarth left in the unit when its built.My advice is to leave well alone

check your oil level! then have an electrician check the oil pressure swicth.if ok. change the oil pump please!

once you pull the injector you should be able to turn the key on and if fuel is dumping into the throttle body and you know for certain you had power to the back of injector it most certainly would be injector.sometimes you can just clean those and get them back to life. Take it off and check to make sure the inlet on the injector has no obstruction and you cand clean it with throttle body cleaner in your hand real well and attempt to put it back on. You may get lucky.

I had the same problem and I went to Wal-Mart and picked up a syphon tube to syphon the extra fluid out of the transmission through the transmission dip stick tube. That would be the easier way than dropping the transmission pan and changing the gasket and refilling the lost fluid.
Good luck and hope this helps. The other way to is to disconnect the return transmission line from the lower portion of the radiator but that can be as messy too.

You might remove the tail light bulds and inspect the lead contacts on the bottom of the bulb. While the bulbs are out install a new fuse and if it doesn't blow this time install one bulb at a time to see which side is blowing the fuse. If it blows right away the prob could be in the headlight switch or in the wiring somewhere. If its been sitting 3 months its possible rats have chewed on the wiring.