Top 20 2004 Chevrolet Tracker - Page 6 Questions & Answers

• Great discussion. Had the customer inspect the Cam connectors and the synchronizer. All looked good. Customer installed an aftermarket Cam sensor without bringing to top dead center first,

• Gave instructions to the customer on how to being his vehicle to top dead center. If that still does not work then it will be necessary to get an OEM Cam sensor (always recommended).

• Customer was happy.

• Reply here if you need to for any followup questions.

Regards, Tony

Have you checked for power on the blue/black wire that goes to the coils. There should be 12 volts anytome the key is turned to the run position (for at least 3-5 seconds) and anytime the vehicle is being cranked. If there is no power than you'll need to check the main relay and the fuel injection fuse. You should be able to tell if the fuse is blown. You can also swapped the relay with another that is the same and you know it works. There are usually several of the same relays in the fuse block so that shouldn't be a problem.

that same wire also feeds power to the fuel pump relay as well as the crank cam sensors and a host of other things. So it is very important for that wire to have power.

If you have no power and the fuse is good and you tried swapping the relays we'll have to get into a little more advanced diagnostics and you will need a volt meter and a test light.

Let me know what you find. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

sounds like the serpintine belt is worn out and slipping. if the belt isn't turning, the a/c, powersteering and the alternator will not function. if this is the case replace the belt. another thing to check is belt tension. with the engine off, try and move the belt up and down. it should only move about a half inch either way. if it moves more than that and your vehicle has an automatic tensioner the tensioner has failed and needs to be replaced. if your vehicle has a manual tensioner try tightening up the tensioner.

A heater core leak typically fogs up the windshield and leaks inside on the floor. Pressure test the cooling system, and find the leak, sounds like it is in the engine bay and not heater core.

Bigird,

I would recommend checking the fuses for the dashboard lights. If no fuses are burned, there could be a possibility of the bulbs in the dash being burned. In any case, start by looking in the manual for fuses relating to dashboard/gauge cluster lights. Once you find out what fuse it should be go from there.

Good luck

simple - get a replacement and glue it on ...

What on earth are you talking about? Replace what? Do you know how many parts make up a Chevrolet Car or Truck?

You may need a new gas cap or air filter or a tank of good gas plus a bottle of injection cleaner

sounds like you may have a bad caytalatic convertor they will have a bad odor and put a lot of back pressure wich will cause bad fuel mixture and poor power but when you let it sit it will clear up ,pressure will reside and 02 mixture will coorect its self,hope you can use this.

this is an article teaching you how to replace the car starter. hope help.

Youu have to go to your local autoparts store. And tell them all the info. on your tracker. Then tell them that you need an oil pan gasket. That is why it is leaking. Hope this helps, James Booth

Yes sir/maam. The computer exactly controls all of those things. Take to autozone to have them run OBD2 scanner or take to mechanic to have checked out or replace computer. You are spot on.

Best Reguards, Premium FixYa Team

Try spraying a penetrating oil in the lock. Let it sit for a minute or so then try working the lock back and forth with the key, this shoukld loosen it up unless the tumbler itself is damaged.

check the color of your spark if it is blue your good if orange replace coil dependig on your setup and if you have 1 coild or 8 coils you many have to check each cylinder seperate just pull out spark plug replace the spark plug wire have someone try to start car and lood at color of spark i should note dont hold the wire just let it rest close by

if that is ok replace your crankshaft postion sensor as it tells the cars ecu when and to what cylinder to fire spark to faulty crankshaft postion sensors 99 percent of the time wont allow car to start or very hard starts the other 1 percent

if it helps please leave good review 4 thumbs

REPLACE THE TENSIONER IDLER PULLEY.THE TENSIONER IDLER PULLEY MAINTAINS THE BELT TENSION WHEN IT GOES BAD.THAT WILL LEAD TO LOOSE BELT TENSION CAUSING BELT TO BREAK.

It will turn over but will not start.It can be battery, starter or fuel issue.As it started this problem after shifting to gear, but did not shifted , it can be transmission related issue.But most probably its battery and other possibilities casing the problem.Click the link below for more troubleshooting:---

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/car-will-turn-over-but-will-not-start.html

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This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

If your looking for "brand new", then the dealer is about the only place to get it. If you want a rebuilt engine AutoZone has them, O'Reilly's has them too. Both will be a "long block" and you will have to use the original manifolds and such.. the rebuilt engine will be cheaper than a new one.

http://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/geo/tracker/2002

Positive crank case ventilation valve is always attached to the valve cover. To check it, pull it out by hand, should slide out easy, and shake it, if it rattles, it`s good. then just slide it back into place.

Based on the info provided, the brakes are not the cause of the odor. The only other component that would cause a simular odor resembling brake drag would be the clutch. Is the clutch dragging? What can I tell you is a possible cause that has not already been checked? I say it is the clutch, now where do we go from here?

Welcome to Fixya

Here are some part you need to check if you are not getting any spark:

A bad pickup inside the distributor (on engines that have a distributor), a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (on engines that do not have a distributor), or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.
A bad ignition module (on engines that have a distributor or use an ignition module separate from the PCM)
A bad ignition coil (on engines that have a distributor and a single coil)
A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)
Faulty ignition switch.

Try to test again the engine for SPARK. Disconnect one of the wires from a spark plug and position the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Insert a Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire, or a small bolt to provide a conductive path. Hve someone crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver or bolt in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

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