20 Most Recent 2004 Chevrolet Tracker - Page 12 Questions & Answers

You may need a new gas cap or air filter or a tank of good gas plus a bottle of injection cleaner

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. Which computer are you looking for? PCM or ECU?

this is an article teaching you how to replace the car starter. hope help.

Is the burnt odor similar to a burnt wire? I would like to ask what you meant when it eats alternator? Is there a physical damage or it does not charge. Was there any tests done prior?

Thanks

A heater core leak typically fogs up the windshield and leaks inside on the floor. Pressure test the cooling system, and find the leak, sounds like it is in the engine bay and not heater core.

Based on the info provided, the brakes are not the cause of the odor. The only other component that would cause a simular odor resembling brake drag would be the clutch. Is the clutch dragging? What can I tell you is a possible cause that has not already been checked? I say it is the clutch, now where do we go from here?

sounds like you may have a bad caytalatic convertor they will have a bad odor and put a lot of back pressure wich will cause bad fuel mixture and poor power but when you let it sit it will clear up ,pressure will reside and 02 mixture will coorect its self,hope you can use this.

Try spraying a penetrating oil in the lock. Let it sit for a minute or so then try working the lock back and forth with the key, this shoukld loosen it up unless the tumbler itself is damaged.

You can find locate the sensor at the rear of the cylinder head on the driver's side of the engine. The sensor is located at the top of a circular black housing, which is secured to the cylinder head with three bolts. A single wiring harness plugs into the top of the sensor. Item 23 in the next image (click for zoom)...




Hope this helps.

The crankshaft position sensor is located in the back of the block. The transmission and flywheel must be removed to replace this sensor.

If your looking for "brand new", then the dealer is about the only place to get it. If you want a rebuilt engine AutoZone has them, O'Reilly's has them too. Both will be a "long block" and you will have to use the original manifolds and such.. the rebuilt engine will be cheaper than a new one.

Have you checked for power on the blue/black wire that goes to the coils. There should be 12 volts anytome the key is turned to the run position (for at least 3-5 seconds) and anytime the vehicle is being cranked. If there is no power than you'll need to check the main relay and the fuel injection fuse. You should be able to tell if the fuse is blown. You can also swapped the relay with another that is the same and you know it works. There are usually several of the same relays in the fuse block so that shouldn't be a problem.

that same wire also feeds power to the fuel pump relay as well as the crank cam sensors and a host of other things. So it is very important for that wire to have power.

If you have no power and the fuse is good and you tried swapping the relays we'll have to get into a little more advanced diagnostics and you will need a volt meter and a test light.

Let me know what you find. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Welcome to Fixya

Here are some part you need to check if you are not getting any spark:

A bad pickup inside the distributor (on engines that have a distributor), a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (on engines that do not have a distributor), or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.
A bad ignition module (on engines that have a distributor or use an ignition module separate from the PCM)
A bad ignition coil (on engines that have a distributor and a single coil)
A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)
Faulty ignition switch.

Try to test again the engine for SPARK. Disconnect one of the wires from a spark plug and position the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Insert a Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire, or a small bolt to provide a conductive path. Hve someone crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver or bolt in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem.

Thank you for using Fixya! If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/elixirjose_00375ea24bd8141b