2001 Chevrolet Lumina - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you have a Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon light on the dash, take it to a shop to check the codes stored in the car's computer.Td

The pump would not be providing fuel to the injectors.The pump relay could be making the noise. The relay is in the fuse box on the passenger side of the radiator.

Do the headlights work? do the tail lights work? If you haven't checked the fuses, do that first. If they aren't blown, the next likely problem is the switch itself. These can be found in working condition from a junk yard. My Cavalier lost it's tail lights and parking lights, but the headlights worked, I had to replace the switch on the steering column. If it is the problem, it is not too complicated to replace yourself with basic tools. You will need a steering wheel puller and you will want to disconnect the battering. Be extra careful with the airbag. Good luck

Every 100,000 miles for spark plugs and every 30,00 for filters like air and fuel. If your engine has a timing belt it should be replaced at recommended mileage as well.

The location of the fuel filter is on the cross member just in front of the fuel tank

Just to let you know the brake light goes through the turn signal switch then the brake lights

Find out what is missing. Does it have spark? Does it have fuel? Recheck your work and make sure you have everything plugged in. Connecting a scanner can help a lot with this because if you forgot to plug something in, it will usually set a fault code to tell you which circuit/circuits are not working.Also, there may not be anything wrong. I have had several where the lifters were collapsed and it did not want to start after doing an intake or cylinder head gasket replacement. When this happens, you just have to keep cranking it for a while to let it build-up some oil pressure to get it started (make sure the battery is fully charged). It will usually make noise (lifters clattering) and run bad for a few minutes after it starts. This should clear up after about five minutes of running.

after reading every post on every forum about the cruise control, I decided to pull the brake switch off of the pedal and have a look. I read somewhere that there is a spring loaded mechanism inside the switch that goes bad and makes the cruise think the brake is engaged. Upon inspecting the switch I saw a flat white bar that the brake rod depresses that engages the mechanism inside the switch. So like I always do... I sprayed the white swtch bar with wd 40 and worked it with a screw driver by pushing it and realeasing it until I heard it make a solid sounding click as it engaged and disengaged. I reinstalled the brake switch and all is well. Seems a little dust has clabbered the lubricant and was causing it to stick. So all is good and my cheap @ss didnt spend a dime. Total time including research was 1.5 hours. Hope this helps someone else

OK, you have addressed the first possibility. There are a few more, each progressively more expensive to fix. First, are the radiator electric cooling fans operating? If you find the vehicle runs ok on the highway, but overheats around town in stop-and-go traffic, it could be that the fans are not running. Quick check for the fans - with the ignition on (the engine doesn't need to be running), move the cooling control to the A/C position. If the fans come on, they are good, but you could still have a fan-related cooling problem. If the fans don't work, you have a problem. If the fans worked, the car runs fine at highway speed but not in town, then suspect the coolant sensor that engages the fans. If the fans work and the car overheats in all conditions, then a system blockage is possible. Blockages occur usually one of two ways: Radiator rust/corrosion, and collapsed radiator hoses. Radiator corrosion will require radiator replacement; if it is blocked badly enough to overheat, flushing it is a waste of effort, and could cause more problems with all the **** you circulate into the engine. If the system is low on water (air in system) it can rise to the top radiator hose and cause it to collapse partially or fully, restricting flow. Some engines have water jackets that extend higher than the radiator cap, so they can trap air. These cars have bleeder ports at these locations to remove to trapped air. Check to see if that is the problem.

TDM IS (Theft Deterrant Module) VATS system

First, I would highly recommend that you also purchase a set of igniton cables and replace these also because you are most likely to have damaged spark plug boots when you remove the boots from the plugs. Trust me...it happens about 95% of the time, and you will be way ahead of the frustration if you are prepaired.

Pull the spark plug boots off of the spark plugs.

NOTE:

Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine may cause the plug threads to seize, causing damage to cylinder head threads.

Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the spark plug. (spray brake cleaner and compressed air works well) Failure to do so could result in severe engine damage because of dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head, or by the contamination of the cylinder head threads. The contaminated threads may prevent the proper seating of the new plug. Use a thread chaser to clean the threads of any contamination.

Screw the spark plugs out of the cylinder head.
Check the air gap at the electrode end of the spark plug.

The specification for the plug gap on your vehicle is 1.524mm (0.060 in)

Place a SMALL amount of nickle-based antiseize compound on the spark plug thread, being very careful not to get any on the porcelain portin of the plug. If you do get antiseize on the porcelain part of the plug, it is imperative that you clean it off thouroughly using brake cleaner and a clean rag, otherwise it could cause cylinder misfires.

Screw the spark plug into the cylinder head and torque to specifications.
The spark plug torque specification for your vehicle is 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.)

NOTE: Failure to properly torque the plugs can cause severe engine damage. Overtightening the plug can damage the threads in the cylinder head and/or make spark plug removal in the future impossible. This will cause you to have to remove the cylinder head for repair the next time the vehicle needs service on the spark plugs.
Undertightening can cause the plug to leak compression and damage the threads in the cylinder head. This can result in the plug blowing completely out of the head causing severe cylinder head damage.

When replacing the ignition cables, make sure they are routed EXACTLY as they were originally routed from the factory. Make sure that all protective wire loom and fasteners are transfered to the new wires and secured properly. Failure to do so can cause damage to the cables, engine misfires and can cause the spark plug wires to "spike" sensitive sensor circuits that are nearby and cause damage to the sensors or your computer modules. Improperly routed ignition cables have also been known to cause interference in radio and stereo systems.

HINT: The rear plugs on your engine are much easier to get to if you remove the two engine struts that go between the engine and the upper radiator support. You can then use a ratchet strap to pull the engine forward to get more room to work on the rear plugs.

It might happen because of bad control panel in the dashboard. You can get the required Chevrolet Lumina AC parts at http://www.discountacparts.com/Chevrolet/Lumina/AC_Kit.html

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????3

They live in the kick or foot panell in the front of the car if on left or right hand side near the door most times

I am assuming that you vehicle is equipped with a 3.1L V-6 since you didn't mention it. (If this is not correct, please post a comment and let me know.)

You most likely have clogged-up EGR ports.
You will need an EGR-to-manifold gasket, a throttle-body base gasket, a wire coat hanger and a spray can of carb and choke cleaner.
EGR Valve gasket: FEL PRO part number 70804 - $5.99 at AutoZone
Throttle Body Base Gasket FEL PRO part number 61053 - $1.49

Remove the EGR valve and the throttle body. Cut the wire coat hanger so you have a piece about 8" long. Use the piece of wire to scrape and pick through the carbon buil-up in the port that goes between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. You can work from both ends by going at an angle through the hole in the manifold where the throttle body mounts and from the other side where the EGR valve mounts. Once you have broken through all the carbon, clean out as much as you can with the piece of wire.

NOTE: Try to not allow this stuff to go into the intake manifold area - engine valve damage can occur if this stuff gets stuck in a valve. It may be a good idea to stuff a rag in the intake just beyond the work area to catch the debris. - DON"T FORGET TO TAKE THE RAG BACK OUT BEFORE YOU RE-INSTALL THE THROTTLE BODY!

After most of the carbon is removed, spray the carb cleaner through the port to finish cleaning it out. After you are satisfied that it is as clean as it is going to get, reassemble the EGR and throttle body. Clear your fault codes and retest the vehicle.

This should do the trick.

There is no starter relay. But there is a part of the antitheft system that will turn off the starter. When your key is forward, do you see a light on the dash that says SECURITY? If so, this is 100% the problem. Check out this link for info and answers that can do yourself.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

You just need to take the car down the street
to the closest repair shop to have it fixed

You don't need a steering column

try a multi function switch

I had a similar problem. Is your temperature gauge pegged to the right as very hot? Or reads always cold, even when hot. If it is a 3100 motor their is a coolant temperature gauge sending unit under the air breather intake that is right next to where you replace the thermostat.

Get a haynes repair manual at a parts dealer, Amazon, or your public library.
On the Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, & Impala FWD 1995 to 2005 it's under section 3-8 on page 3-6. It goes into great detail, and it's too complicated to explain here. If your sensor is bad, but the wires and fuses are good then the fans won't run.

Your second fan only runs when the air compressor is turning, If your ac compressor is not running then the sensor will not have the passenger fan run.
You have to see if the fan motors are good and then the wiring is good, and no fuses blown. You might blow fuses so have extra blue ones if I remember right. Recheck fuses after testing.

GM has been pretty good about servicibilty of head light and tail light bulb replacements...Look for 2 or 3 hold down bolts that hold the entire light assembly in place...(usually 10 mm) Removing all of these hold down bolts allows you to carefully pull the entire light bar forward to expose the wired bulb sockets...be sure to not touch the new bulb with your hand body oil...this will shorten the life of the bulb...also use bulb lubricant...best for servicing and contact. Hope this helps.