Top 20 1999 Chevrolet C1500 Questions & Answers

If diesel, you have bad compression. time for an overhaul. If gas, and it's cold its just like your breath. Moisture condensation in the air.

You will need to take the dashboard apart and then take all of the heating duct off. Unhook the 2 hoses to the engine cooling system in the engine bay. Then take the duct apart to take the heater core out . After all that just take everything back together. It,s a big job for sure!!!

Junk yard parts are way cheaper that dealer prices.

intake or exhaust?

You will have to remove fuel tank to get fuel pump out,here are some links.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8025edd1 Here's the link to remove tank.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8025ef3e Here's the fuel pump.http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Airtex-Master-Fuel-Pump/1999-Chevrolet-C1500-1-2ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-jd5auZ8vcz2?itemIdentifier=293411_213751_0_

Misfires must be diagnosed. As you can see, randomly changing parts in an attempt to diagnose the problem can be vert COSTLY. Besides all the parts that you have allready replaced, there could be a problem with the fuel injectors, there could be cylinder compression problems caused by a number of possible causes including bent/burnt valves, broken valve springs, or a head gasket blown between cylinders. There could be timing problems due to erratic knock sensor input. Fuel shutoff due to throttle position sensor "dropout". "Random" misfires (which is what a code P0300 code is) can even be caused by something as crazy as a vacuum brake booster leaking and creating a large vacuum leak....the list goes on and on....It is easiest and most cost effective way to diagnose this type of problem is by using a scan tool and looking at all of the engine data and/or taking a "snap-shot" of the data when the problem is occuring. This way, you can tell which parts of the engine control system are being affected so those areas can be inspected for possible failures. The first step is to isolate the causing SYSTEM. So far, you have replaced parts for the fuel system, the ignition system and the EGR system....

CHECK WITH THE CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP ASP

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/check-engine-light-code-p0449-17390/

This may help you

Your problem shows as a problem with a 1999 Chevrolet C1500. Then you describe the problem as not coming out of 4-wheel Low. If your Truch HAS 4 wheel drive, it is a "K" series truck, not a "C" series truck. K1500? (Minor detail, but some people don't know the difference and can give you some really goofy advise if they try to look it up the way it is listed.)

Anyway, I have to ask this: Did you actually scan your transfer case module or did you scan with a generic OBD code reader? It should be noted here that MOST OBD code readers CANNOT access information from the transfer case or body control modules. They can only access the "GENERIC" side of the engine control computer (or PCM). They also cannot access "vehicle specific" information from ANY modules including the PCM.

With this type of problem, you really need a full access scanner that can read data from all of the modules. That is the only way to check and see if the computer is getting the signals from the control switches to change your drive mode. If the computer is not receiving the signals, then there is a problem with your selector switch or the wiring between the switch and the computer. If the computer IS getting the signal, then there is a problem either with your shift actuator motor assembly or the wiring between the computer and the shift actuator.

Reading the data will also verify the range that the actuator is reporting to the computer. Just because the motor runs, does not mean the actuator is functioning properly. It COULD be reporting to the computer that it is in 2-wheel High when it is actually stuck in 4-wheel Low. This is where comparing computer data to functional testing comes in.

give it a shot of starting fluid and if it fires it`s fuel if not i`ts spark or something else good luck this will isalate the problem

according to the Haynes manual first pass is 22 fp on all of the bolts. then on the next pass small bolts go 45 degrees medium bolts go 55 degrees long bolts go 65 degrees. and that is it

Hi, the sending unit on your fuel pump sends a variable ground signal to the dash guage. I believe there may be a fuse for it, check your fuse panels. If not, you can poke a thin pin through the wire coming from the sending unit at the fuel pump connection and run it to ground. The guage should go to the full mark. If not, the problem lies in the wiring between the sending unit and the dash. If it does go to full, your sending unit is defective. Mike

The computer monitors just about everything electrical on the vehicle.The part you are refering to is not a neutral safety switch , its called a mode switch,It controls what range the vehicle will crank, the reverse lights, the indicator lights in the cluster, and tells the pcm where the gear lever is so it can produce the proper solenoid commands for that range.Have you checked codes?The adjustment precedure is critcal so would recomend not just changing parts or guessing.

reset the codes with an OBDII to default then run it..then see if codes come back

do a fule pressure test, and check the signal from the tps, it may have a bad signal, best to get installed a real time scanner to check all the sensors and actuators

you may have a bad coils or coil boots in those cylinders, try switching the coils to a good cylinder and see if the codes change to the other cylinders, if they change then replace the coils, the computer see it drawing more cuurent so it thinks its the plug because its not misfiring or completly grounding out.

1) Disconnect Negative Cable on Battery
2) Starters on right-side Close to Trans. Bell Housing
3) Remove the 2-Starter Bolts and Shim if it's
if it has shims.
4) Remove the wires off Solenoid: Mark Them:
5) Remove the Heat Gaurd Over top of Starter:
6) Take Starter on Out.

To Re-Install Reverse the Procedure that you Removed the Starter. NOTE: the Shims if there was any are only nessary if the Casting of the Starter is not Exactly or Close to The Original.

Be sure that All the Wires you Took off the Starter Solenoid are put Back on the Exact Same Terminal. And Snug them up .Be careful not to Over Tighten,:
Specs on Bolts Are :
Torque Starter Battery Cable Nut to 90 inch lbs
Torque Smaller ingnition wier nuts to 18 Inch Lbs
Torque the 2- Starter Mounting Bolts to 35 FOOT lbs.
Remember if your Old Starter Had Shims the New one MIGHT need Shims.All Starters Casting are just a Little Different. like by thousands of an inch. So if you have problems you might have to remove or add shims,they come in different sizes. Hope this has helped you,Please let me know how this solution Helped. Thank You: From d_hubbs

It's a big issue, it will leak vacuum, water, or both. You might get lucky that it snapped off aboe the head, if so, remove the intake, and go to Sears, they have the new bolt removing sockets, I have one and it works great. Auto Zone might have a set for around $35.00, this is what I bought for any emergency. If it's below the head surface, you can chance it or take the head to a machine shop to get the screw eased out. If your good with a hand drill you might get a hole in the bolt and ease it out yourself, those bolts are pretty hard to drill while in the vehicle.

Fuel pump

You should check the CRANK SENSOR & OIL PRESSURE SWITCH (the oil pressure switch is located around the oil filter has one plug with 2 wires, it takes a SPECIAL SOCKET took me about 10 min. to do and had never done one before) Crank Sensor you have to remove everything that is in the way of getting the harmonic balancer off, to do that you will need a H/B PULLER, after that the sending unit is right behind that should be the only thing there with wires going to it