20 Most Recent 1999 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

CHECK WITH THE CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP ASP

give it a shot of starting fluid and if it fires it`s fuel if not i`ts spark or something else good luck this will isalate the problem

http://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/check-engine-light-code-p0449-17390/

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Hi, the sending unit on your fuel pump sends a variable ground signal to the dash guage. I believe there may be a fuse for it, check your fuse panels. If not, you can poke a thin pin through the wire coming from the sending unit at the fuel pump connection and run it to ground. The guage should go to the full mark. If not, the problem lies in the wiring between the sending unit and the dash. If it does go to full, your sending unit is defective. Mike

according to the Haynes manual first pass is 22 fp on all of the bolts. then on the next pass small bolts go 45 degrees medium bolts go 55 degrees long bolts go 65 degrees. and that is it

The computer monitors just about everything electrical on the vehicle.The part you are refering to is not a neutral safety switch , its called a mode switch,It controls what range the vehicle will crank, the reverse lights, the indicator lights in the cluster, and tells the pcm where the gear lever is so it can produce the proper solenoid commands for that range.Have you checked codes?The adjustment precedure is critcal so would recomend not just changing parts or guessing.

reset the codes with an OBDII to default then run it..then see if codes come back

On 5.7L engines, install the bolts and torque in sequence as follows:

1. Step 1: 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
2. Step 2: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
3. Step 3: 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).

do a fule pressure test, and check the signal from the tps, it may have a bad signal, best to get installed a real time scanner to check all the sensors and actuators

It's a big issue, it will leak vacuum, water, or both. You might get lucky that it snapped off aboe the head, if so, remove the intake, and go to Sears, they have the new bolt removing sockets, I have one and it works great. Auto Zone might have a set for around $35.00, this is what I bought for any emergency. If it's below the head surface, you can chance it or take the head to a machine shop to get the screw eased out. If your good with a hand drill you might get a hole in the bolt and ease it out yourself, those bolts are pretty hard to drill while in the vehicle.

Fuel pump

you may have a bad coils or coil boots in those cylinders, try switching the coils to a good cylinder and see if the codes change to the other cylinders, if they change then replace the coils, the computer see it drawing more cuurent so it thinks its the plug because its not misfiring or completly grounding out.

You probably have a caliper that is sticking.I have had this happen to me on a few occasions after doing a rear brake job.Make sure and check the ABS code to see if it is related or not.Also check over your work very carefully to make sure you did everything right.Let me know what you find.Good luck.

You should check the CRANK SENSOR & OIL PRESSURE SWITCH (the oil pressure switch is located around the oil filter has one plug with 2 wires, it takes a SPECIAL SOCKET took me about 10 min. to do and had never done one before) Crank Sensor you have to remove everything that is in the way of getting the harmonic balancer off, to do that you will need a H/B PULLER, after that the sending unit is right behind that should be the only thing there with wires going to it

What is the problem you are having?

you need to replace your blower motor resistor. it is located under the dash on the passenger side, inserts into the airbox, held in by two screws around the blower motor. it is available at any parts store. buy the ac delco brand. good luck!

20lbs really is not enough to cause the lifters to make noise,the gauge maybe wrong The oil pump screen maybe stopped up,and the rod and main bearings maybe worn.If this was helpful,please rate,thank you.

1) Disconnect Negative Cable on Battery
2) Starters on right-side Close to Trans. Bell Housing
3) Remove the 2-Starter Bolts and Shim if it's
if it has shims.
4) Remove the wires off Solenoid: Mark Them:
5) Remove the Heat Gaurd Over top of Starter:
6) Take Starter on Out.

To Re-Install Reverse the Procedure that you Removed the Starter. NOTE: the Shims if there was any are only nessary if the Casting of the Starter is not Exactly or Close to The Original.

Be sure that All the Wires you Took off the Starter Solenoid are put Back on the Exact Same Terminal. And Snug them up .Be careful not to Over Tighten,:
Specs on Bolts Are :
Torque Starter Battery Cable Nut to 90 inch lbs
Torque Smaller ingnition wier nuts to 18 Inch Lbs
Torque the 2- Starter Mounting Bolts to 35 FOOT lbs.
Remember if your Old Starter Had Shims the New one MIGHT need Shims.All Starters Casting are just a Little Different. like by thousands of an inch. So if you have problems you might have to remove or add shims,they come in different sizes. Hope this has helped you,Please let me know how this solution Helped. Thank You: From d_hubbs

One or more of your wheel speed sensors is not reporting. Scan the ABS codes to see which one(s). Don't assume a bad sensor as often times it's just the connection at the sensor or the wiring to the harness.