20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Metro - Page 4 Questions & Answers

have you checkwed to see if you have continutity in all wire at pump for relay

Check your cv joints the boots probably got a hole in them and leaked the clanking sound could be the bearings in the cv joints on that same side.

I would check to see if there is any spark coming from the coil.If there is no spark there I would start looking at the fuses.Check all the fuses sometimes they run things like that through other circuts as well as it's own circut, so a fuse labled ECMB,IGN,ECMA.... should be checked also.

There are allot of problems that can cause this, low fuel pressure, a defective idle speed control air-bypass valve, low engine compression or burnt valves, these are just guesses, I have 30 years of repair experience on these types of problems, this engine is electronically controlled, if the system is malfunctioning then there should be a check engine light on, even if you have no light u will need to have the electronic control systems computer tested, both a passive test for fault codes and an active test to see if the idle speed control is working properly, the only place that can run these tests is the dealer or a well equipped shop, this is the 1st step to diagnose this problem, just replacing parts is very expensive and seldom an effective way to repair a car with this kind of problems, just to many theing that can cause the symptom, so get the system tested..

can be a number of things from fuel pump to coil pack but check the egr valve may be starting to go -remove and check for carbon build up if not fully encrusted use a carb/or a carbon cleaning solution to clean and free up valve--most problems give a code but -fuel pump-filter-air filter dont and egr will sometimes set off other sensors but usually doesnt until its to late

SHIFT : A specific period of time when you're suppose to be at work. To change gears in a transmission from one to another. To change position while sitting in a chair or standing. To move something from one location to another. To change or replace.

fuel pump went out

Hi, if the vehicle stays in first gear even with the engine switched off, the problem is inside the gearbox. You will have to replace the first and second gear hub and sleeve as well as the syncroniser rings for first and second gear in order to fix the problem. If it disengages first gear when the engine is switched off you should look at the clutch plate and pressure plate. The pressure plate might cause the clutch not to release properly.

visit www.jcwhitney.com enter vehicle,search shop manual.

You need to have your front end (steering componants) checked. It sounds like something is loose, broken, or worn out.

Good Luck

I dont see why that would affect your starting and charging system, check for spark

Do a filter and tranny oil change, this sometimes helps.

1. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. CAUTION: Failure to observe Step 1 may result in a serious personal injury. It a tool is shorted at the generator lead, the tool will become hot enough to cause a serious burn .
2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove the rubber protector, the nut and the electrical connector from the generator B terminal.
4. Remove the upper mounting bolt (1).
5. Remove the drive belt.
6. Remove the 2 lower generator mounting bolts.
7. Remove the generator.
   1. Install the generator.
   2. Install the 2 lower mounting bolts finger-tight.
   3. Install the upper mounting bolt (1) finger-tight.
      1. Install the drive belt.
      • Adjust the drive belt to obtain a 68 mm (0.24-0.31 in) deflection with 10 kg (22 lbs) pressure exerted when reinstalling a used belt.
      • Adjust the drive belt to obtain a 5-7 mm (0.20-0.27 in) deflection with 10 kg (22 lbs) pressure exerted when reinstalling a new belt.
      1. Tighten the generator upper mounting bolt. NOTE : Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices. Tighten Tighten the generator upper mounting bolt to 23 N.m (17 lb ft) .
      2. Tighten the generator lower mounting bolts.
      Tighten
      Tighten the generator lower mounting bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft) .
      1. Connect the electrical connector to the generator B terminal. Secure the connector with one nut and the rubber protector. Tighten Tighten the electrical connector nut to 8 N.m (71 lb in) .
      2. Install the air cleaner assembly.
      3. Connect the negative (-) battery cable. Tighten Tighten the negative (-) battery cable to 15 N.m (11 lb ft) .

1. Remove the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine cooling system.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove the A/C compressor suction pipe bracket (if equipped).
5. Loosen four water pump pulley bolts. Do not remove the bolts.
6. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Remove the right lower splash shield.
7. Remove the right lower splash shield.
8. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt (if so equipped) by releasing the tensioner pulley and removing the belt from the crankshaft and compressor pulleys.
9. Loosen the generator adjusting bolt (1), pivot the generator and remove the water pump/generator drive belt.
10. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
11. Remove the water pump pulley (four bolts).
12. Remove the timing belt.
13. Remove the oil level indicator (dipstick) guide tube.
14. Remove the upper generator adjusting bracket from the water pump (one bolt).
    
    
    1. Remove the rubber seals from the water pump.
    2. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts.
    3. Remove the water pump and gasket from the vehicle.
    4. Clean the water pump and the gasket mating surfaces.
    5. Install the water pump.
    6. Secure the water pump with mounting nuts and bolts. Tighten Tighten the water pump mounting nuts and bolts to 13 Nm (115 ft. lbs.).
    7. Install new rubber seals (1) to the water pump (2).
    8. Install the upper generator adjusting bracket to the water pump (one bolt).
    • Tighten the upper generator mounting bracket bolt to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).
    1. Install the oil level indicator (dipstick) guide tube.
    2. Install the timing belt.
    3. Install the water pump pulley.
    4. Finger-tighten the four bolts.
    5. Install the crankshaft pulley.
    6. Install the water pump/generator drive belt to the crankshaft, water pump and generator pulleys.

well its on the front of the motor if equiped with one belt but usually they have seperat belts

A few possibilities..
A battery can test fine and still be bad.. Especially the "no maintenence" batteries that have no cell caps.. I have seen it happen many times.. Car batteries usually last around 3 years..
Could be a bad connection at battery terminal,, Maybe corroded battery cables.. This would cause it to not charge properly..
Could be a drain.. A drain is something drawing power from the battery even when the car if off.. Can be very very hard to find..
After car is off for a few hours - check all the relays and fuses to see if any are warm or hot.. If you find one - that could indicate where the drain is coming from..

Please dont forget to rate well ;o)

sounds like the synchro mesh is shot, look at rebuilt transmission , usually cheaper than the gears them selves.

These two belts should be for the alternator, power steering, water pump, emissions, and the a/c compressor.

you will need to get a new one from the junkyard. if you take your dash apart it is a whole rectangle thing with some wires and cables attached to the back.