Top 10 1998 Chevrolet Lumina Questions & Answers

This is a classic example of turn signal switch failure. On GM vehicles with a multi-function turn signal switch and combination stop/turn/tail lights (all rear lights are behind red colored lenses except for back-up lights) The brake light power is routed through the turn signal switch. This makes it possible for the right rear light to function as a stop light while the left rear turn signal flashes, and vice-versa. When the contacts fail to remain constant the brake lights, and turn signals can become intermittent. The proof that the brake light switch is functioning correctly is that the high center (cyclops) brake light functions properly. Wiring integrity is verified if you can prove that turn signals operate, but that can still be intermittent with this complaint, BUT if you use your hazard switch to turn on all the signals at once, you can verify wiring integrity. This is because the turn signal, and the brake light use the same circuit, and bulb filament in the rear lighting assembly. If any Hazard lights fail to function, check bulbs first, then retest. If all Hazrd light flash correctly and reliably, bulbs, sockets, and wiring have proven integrity, and the turn signal switch is the remaining component in the system which needs to be tested. Unfortunately, this switch requires disassembly of the steering column for service, testing or replacement. If you have never disassembled, and successfully reassembled a GM tilt steering column, I would reccommend professional assistance.

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, 5/2 3/6 4/1. ASSUMING YOU HAVE THE 3.1L ENGINE.

You may look or feel the back side of the steering wheel, looking for 2 screws that hold the airbag to the wheel, these will be internal torq type screws (star) you may have to rotate the steering wheel 90 degrees to access the screws. You should first disable the airbag, by removing the airbag fuse, and or by disconnecting a yellow connector located near the base of the steering column. under the knee bolster.(panel below column). Once the retaining screws are removed, lift bag and disconnect the 2 connector to the airbag, the ground for the horn, and the horn contact wire, which requires you to push down and twist counter clockwise, damage to the horn contact ring will occur if you try and just pull connector from the ring. Now you can remove the steering wheel, may require a puller, and the you will have access to the turn signal switch.

Here are the steps:

1. Raise the hood.
2. Lift the flap on the appropriate end of the radiator upper air deflector.
3. Separate the radiator side air baffle from the upper air deflector.
4. Remove the fastener retaining the upper edge of the front bumper fascia to the headlamp bracket.
5. Remove the two bolts retaining the headlamp assembly to the headlamp bracket.
6. Slide the headlamp assembly slightly inboard to release the outboard retaining tabs.
7. Carefully pull the upper edge of the front bumper fascia away from the inboard edge of the headlamp assembly, just enough to aid in headlamp removal.
8. Carefully remove the headlamp assembly from the headlamp bracket.
   
9. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the headlamp bulbs.
10. Rotate the park/turn signal lamp socket counterclockwise to release.
11. Remove the headlamp assembly.

The stub shaft spline or the steering wheel shaft spline is stripped and needs to be replaced.
Sounds like someone had the wheel off and stripped the splines on removal/installation at one time.
You can try to improvise a key way slot system on the shaft but you have to be certain it is secure, this will save you a lot of time and money, unless the steering wheel is at fault then r&r the wheel and try to locate a used one when installing it be sure you line up the spline notches.

Cylinder Head Removal & Installation 3.1L Engine To Remove:
NOTE: With some minor variations, this procedure can be used on both the left and right cylinder heads.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Drain the engine coolant and the engine oil. Lower the vehicle.
3. Remove the upper and lower intake manifolds.
4. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods.
5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
6. Remove the engine mount strut bracket.
7. If removing the left side (front) head, remove the dipstick tube.
8. Tag for identification, then remove the spark plug wires.
9. Remove the spark plugs.
10. Remove the exhaust manifold using the procedures found in this section.
11. Remove the eight cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head. There are locator pins that align the head to the block. Pull upwards on the head to disengage the pins, then remove the cylinder head to a suitable work area.
12. If the head is be overhauled, remove any remaining components such as the engine lift hook, the fuel line bracket bolts, the engine coolant temperature sensor, etc., as required.

Position a new gasket, install the head, then tighten the bolts in the sequence shown (3.1L engine shown)

To Install:
NOTE: If the head gasket failed, determine the cause. Gasket failure is caused by the following conditions: improper installation; overheating due to a failure in the electric cooling fan system or a leak in the cooling system; loose or warped cylinder head; missing, off location or not fully seated locator dowel pins; low torque on the cylinder head bolts; warped block surface; scratched or gouged gasket surfaces; excessive intake manifold torque and even cracked engine block tapped holes.

1. Clean all parts well. Remove all foreign material to the bare metal. Do not use a motorized wire brush on any gasket sealing surface. It is good practice to use the proper size thread-cutting tap to clean the threaded bolt holes in the block. This helps assure an accurate torque reading.
2. Place a new head gasket on the clean engine block deck surface. Many gaskets will have some sort of marking denoting TOP or THIS SIDE UP. Make sure the gasket sits flat and is not hung up on the locator dowel pins. Use no sealer on the head gasket.
3. Carefully set the cylinder head in place, using care not to damage the gasket. Make certain that the head engages the locator dowel pins that properly position the head.
4. The bolts should be very clean since dirt built-up on the bolt threads makes it difficult to get an accurate torque reading. These are 'torque to yield' bolts which stretch a small amount when tightened; new bolts are always recommended. On a used vehicle, especially a high-mileage vehicle, it may be difficult to determine if the heads have been removed before and how many cycles the bolts have been removed and tightened. New bolts should be part of any cylinder head service. Use GM Sealer #1052080, or equivalent, on the threads of the head bolts and install all eight bolts, finger-tight.
5. With an accurate torque wrench, tighten the bolts gradually, in sequence, working from the center outwards. Final torque should be 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm), plus an additional 90 degrees (1/4-turn). A torque angle meter is recommended.
6. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the removal process.

Trouble Code: P1676 (3.8L V6 VIN K Auto)
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid

Number of Trips to Set Code: 1
OBD II Monitor Type: CCM Details
Indicators: MIL Details

• PCM Details
• MIL Details

Trouble Code Conditions:
Conditions for Setting the DTC.

• The ignition is on.
  
• An improper voltage level has been detected on the output circuit which controls the EVAP purge solenoid.
  
• The above conditions are present for at least 30 seconds.
  

Possible Causes:

• Poor connection at the PCM. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
  
• Damaged harness.
  
• Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, disconnect the PCM, turn the ignition on and observe a voltmeter connected between the EVAP purge solenoid control circuit and ground at the PCM harness connector while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the EVAP purge solenoid. A change in voltage will indicate the location of the malfunction.
  

1998 Chevrolet Lumina - Powertrain - Engine Controls - 3.8L - DTC P1676 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Solenoid Control Circuit

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shuting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix...

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. For a list of cars effected by this problem. See the NEWROCKIES link on the right side of their page......... They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks.
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081
----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey **** system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites

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