20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Venture - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Chevy Venture has a timing chain, not a belt. It is a very involved job to replace. If you have never done a timing chain before you may want to consider having it done proffesionally.

Hi :
A good source for the information you need is:

www.alldatadiy.com

For about $20 you can get a subscription, and have instructions, and diagrams to do just about anything on your specific vehicle. They have always been helpful to me!

The best thing to do is take your title and registration to your local GM dealer. For about 30 or 40 dollars they will make you a new key. Calling a locksmith will also work, however, the cost will be considerably higher.

{: ) When an A/C mode is selected, the A/C control head or the A/C programmer supplies a 12 volt signal to the PCM A/C request input. The A/C compressor clutch relay is controlled by the PCM. The PCM provides a ground path for the A/C relay coil. When the A/C compressor relay is engaged battery voltage is supplied to the compressor clutch coil. The PCM will enable the A/C compressor clutch whenever the engine is running and the A/C has been requested unless one or more of the following conditions are present:
Throttle angle greater than 90 %.
• A/C head pressure greater than 414 psi (4.27 volts) or less than 34 psi (0.35 volt) (as determined by the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor). • Ignition 1 voltage below 10.5 volts. • Engine speed greater than 4500 RPM for longer than 5 seconds. • Engine speed greater then 5400 RPM for any amount of time. • ECT greater than 125°C (257°F). • IAT less than 5°C (41°F). • Throttle angle is greater than 90%. • A/C head pressure is greater than 414 psi (4.27 volts) or less than 34 psi (0.35 volt) (as determined by the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor). • Ignition 1 voltage is below 10.5 volts. • Engine speed is greater than 4500 RPM for longer than 5 seconds. • Engine speed is greater then 5400 RPM for any amount of time. • ECT is greater than 125°C (257°F). • IAT is less than 5°C (41°F). Any of the conditions described above will inhibit A/C compressor relay operation.

A scan tool can control a/c operation without regards to the prevailing parameters that can inhibit its functions. Remember that the scan tool is a very effective diagnostic tool.
In this case, the scan tool was able to control a/c, which is an indication that the PCM is communicating, and that circuit 459 going to the relay and then to the a/c compressor are normally functional. You need to check now if the sensor input signals are within the specified ranges.

Stalls on streets when you start up and drive off and come to a stop then it stalls? If it does you mainy looking at a EGR failure, the EGR doesnt seat properly your fix is to replace the EGR

If you arent getting any codes (check engine light on) then it can be a few things...
First I would check the spark plug wires... At night , or in a dark garage start the vehicle and open the hood and spray a mist of windex or water on the engine... see if there is any arching going on...

next suspect is the MAP sensor... it is on the firewall and has a single vacuum hose going to a little box with 2 or 3 wires in a harness going to it. Unplug the harness to test... if it improoves , get a new MAP sensor.

Next is the fuel pump... change the filter first... as it could be clogged up and not allowing the fuel to pressurize enough.. to fire the injectors...

let us know how it goes!

Either the fan motors are bad or the temp relay located on the top of the engin block may be bad and worse case is the computer may not be sending a signal. You can also check the two relays located in the fuse block under the hood.

Sometimes when the security system is not working properly, it can go into anti theft mode and literally shut down fuel pumps, injectors, or starters.... Read up on it thru this link and see if this might be your problem. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Open you glove box. At the rear you will see an access panel. Open the panel and slide the filter out. You will see another filter, which you move forward and slide out. It requires 2 cabin filters.

1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure and install a pressure test gauge according to the tool manufacturers instructions.
   
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 3 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two or three times to pressurize the system. Again turn the switch to the ON position.
   
   1. On TBI equipped vehicles, the gauge should read a static pressure of between 9 and 13 psi (62-89kPa)
      
   2. On SFI equipped vehicles, the gauge should read a static pressure of between 41 and 47 psi (248-325kPa)
      
   3. If not, check for a clogged fuel filter, a kinked fuel line, or an inoperative fuel pump.
      
3. On TBI equipped vehicles, the fuel pressure will drop after the fuel pump stops running due to a controlled bleed in the fuel system. Use of the fuel pressure gauge will determine if the fuel system pressure is enough for the engine to start and run.
   
4. No fuel spray from the injector indicates a faulty fuel or ignition system or no PCM control of the injector.
   
5. This test will determine if the ignition control module is not generating the reference pulse or if the wiring or PCM are at fault. By touching and removing a test light to B+ on CKT 430 (purple/white wire from the ignition system), a reference pulse should be generated. If the injector test light blinks, the PCM and wiring are OK.
   

If the pump tests bad...
Disconnect the negative battery cable.

1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
   
2. Block the front wheels and raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely. Make sure the rear is high enough to accommodate the removal of the fuel cell.
   
3. Loosen the fuel filler neck connecting tube clamp at the tank.
   
4. Wrap a shop towel around the fuel filter neck connecting tube and slowly remove the fuel filler neck connecting tube from the fuel tank.
   
5. Position a siphon hose into the fuel tank through the fuel filler opening. Place the other end into an approved container with enough capacity to hold the fuel in the tank. Siphon the fuel.
   
6. Raise the vehicle to gain access to the fuel tank. Make sure the vehicle is safely supported.
   

1. Disconnect the tail pipe hanger attaching bolt.
   
2. Remove the muffler hanger attaching bolts and remove the muffler hanger.
   
3. Loosen the converter hanger attaching nuts.
   
4. Remove the two heat shield attaching screws and note the position for reassembly.
   
5. Support the exhaust and move the heat shield to gain the access to the right side of the fuel tank retaining strap attaching bolts.
   
6. Remove the in-line fuel filter body clips.
   

If the nylon fuel feed or return lines becomes kinked, and cannot be straightened, they must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair sections of the nylon fuel lines.

1. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting at the fuel filter, and return line fitting.
   
2. Disconnect the fuel tank electrical connector.
   
3. Disconnect the vapor hose at the fuel tank.
   
4. Disconnect the vent hose at the fuel tank.
   

With the aid of an assistant, support the fuel tank, remove the left and right tank retaining strap attaching bolts, and remove the tank.

1. As necessary, remove the fuel sending unit (which includes the fuel pump), as outlined, in this section.
   
2. Then you can change the pump:
   
3. Remove the fuel sender assembly.
   
4. Disassemble the fuel pump strainer and the fuel pump: Note the position of the strainer in relation to the pump.
   
5. See Figure 3
   
   
   Fig. 3: Remove the fuel tank locking ring with a non-sparking (brass) punch.
   
   
   
   1. Support the fuel pump in one hand, and grab the strainer in the other hand.
      
      1. Rotate strainer in one direction and pull off pump. Discard strainer.
         
   
   
   
   
   
   
   1. 1. Remove deflector.
         
   1. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
      
   2. Loosen the two connecting clamps, if equipped.
      
   3. Place the fuel sender assembly upside down on the work bench.
      
      1. Pull the fuel pump downward to remove it from the mounting bracket, then tilt the pump outward and remove it from the connecting hose or the fuel pulse dampener.
         
   4. It is recommended to replace the hose and clamps, if equipped.
      
   To install:
   
   1. Push the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose. Attach the pump electrical wires and fasten the hose clamps to the attaching hose and around the pump body, where equipped.
      
   2. Place the fuel tank sender and pump assembly into the fuel tank. Use a new O-ring seal during assembly.
      
   3. Then put the tank back in:
      
   4. 1. If the fuel tank is replaced, transfer the fuel feed and return lines from the mounting clips, the vapor hose from the mounting clips and the vent hose from the vent hose fitting.
         
      2. Check the fuel filler neck for cracks and holes and replace as necessary.
         
      3. Install the fuel sending unit.
         
      4. With the aid of an assistant, position and support the fuel tank and install the left and right tank retaining strap attaching bolts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs.
         
      5. Connect the vent and vapor hoses.
         
      6. Connect the fuel sending unit electrical connector.
         
      7. Connect the quick-connect fittings as outlined.
         
      8. Position the fuel sending unit electrical connector and fuel return line under the in-line fuel filter bracket.
         
      9. Install the in-line fuel filter and new body clips.
         
      10. Reposition the heat shield as noted during removal and tighten the retaining screws to 18 lbs. ft.
          
      11. Tighten the converter hanger attaching bolts to 20 lbs. ft.
          
      12. Install the muffler hanger and attaching bolts and tighten to 18 lbs. ft.
          
      13. Install the tailpipe hanger attaching bolt and tighten to 20 lbs. ft.
          
      14. Lower the vehicle, add fuel and install the fuel filler cap.
          
      15. Connect the negative battery cable.
          
      16. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 3 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 5 seconds. Repeat this procedure two or three times to pressurize the system. Again turn the switch to the ON position and check for leaks.
          

You will need to replace your heater core as I bet if you lift up the carpet you will find it damp because thats where you are loosing the fluid. It is undectable unless you lift up the carpet and the foam padding. Also change out your Coolant temperature sensor under the throttlebody. You may also have a bad water pump and or (as you face the the engine) the upper right plastic part of the Radiator may be cracked leaking only when hot.

Never use a stop leak additive especially to the Venture; it has an inferior coolant system. One other item is you may have installed an either overrated temperature or underrated Thermostat causing open and closure issues....The Venture needs the precisely rated Thermostat. Let me know how you fare.

You can do this at home, I do it all the time. And you can get specs out of the manual. I don't have them, because I do everyone by eye, then test drive them and tweek them in on the road.

yes but you need to remove the transmission first and keep it on a harness to a lift as you remove the motor mounts.

Usually the o2 sensor is screwed into the exhaust manifold on most vehicles...it will probable be between the engine and firewall on either 4 or 6 cylinder engines, but occasionally they put one in the exhaust pipe just before the catalytic converter.