20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 3 Questions & Answers

It is glued in with a rubber type glue that you cut can cut with a large razorblade knife,,, its not easy to do

If you have a smart phone download an app called ' torque '. I got mine for $4.99. Then buy a bluetooth OBD2 scan tool to plug into your computor.. Elm makes these. Usually around 12 to 15 bucks. Your phone will give you the error codes and take you to a website that will explain them. Fix it with the right parts yourself and save money.

I discovered the problem was a worn key.. read on for the explanation and a couple pics I have a 99 Tahoe and the engine on start would fire then die, and on other occasions while on the road without warning the engine would suddenly die. In both examples if I waited about 10 minutes it would restart an drive normally. I thought I might have the dreaded Passlock problem although my key doesn't have the chip on the side and the key head doesn't match other PL key designs. I discovered my ignition switch is mechanical with a bar magnet (I suspect) in the barrel. Apparently when the key is inserted the magnet retract into the barrel a little bit so it is farther from the sensor (hall effect?) in the cylinder receiver. After I removed the key cylinder from the steering column I was able to see the magnet retract in when the key is inserted, and project out when the key is removed. I also saw when the key is inserted in the cylinder it had wobble/play and the magnet also moved. I compared my daily key with an original spare and the tip of daily key is worn skinny compared the the spare key.. When the spare key is inserted there is less wobble and the magnet moves very little. I've been driving with the "spare" key for over a month now without a single stall event.

Sounds like a bad dash ground, use a heavy jumper wire from known good ground and ground the dash and retest

you have air trapped in the cooling system. A good indication is that one or both of your heater hoses going into the heater core are cold when they should be hot.
Park facing uphill, raise front of vehicle so radiator cap is higher than top of engine. (You want bubble to get to radiator and out the cap.)
Leave cap on but loose, so bubble can purge.
Turn heater on.
Fill radiator and reservoir with 50/50 mix of antifreeze.
Start engine and run at about 1500 roms until the engine warms up and thermostat opens.
You will know themostat opens when top radiator hose is hot indicating coolant is flowing.
Shut off engine.
Fill radiator and reservoir. Install cap.

please Rate as fixya if this works. good luck

That's a warning sign for you to change also your left brakes. Its very thin.

First off I must say, Gene Farley you are CRAZY!! 97 Tahoe does NOT have individual coils. It has a single coil mounted to the top of the intake on the rear passenger side of the engine. I've been a mechanic for over 12 years and mostly specialize in Chevy/GMC trucks and SUVs. I do agree with next answer down though that you should check for fire coming out of the plug wire at the spark plug end. If it's getting fire and fuel pressure is good then I recommend the coolant temp sensor located right beside the water neck on the front of the engine. GM vehicles are known for this problem.

It could be fuel-related. Do you hear the pump come on with key on? A fuel pressure test would be a starting place. You seem to be looking for a spark problem. Have you verified if plugs are firing? A diagnostic flow-chart of the ignition starting circuit would cover the whole system (including the things you have already replaced), but would help you find the problem without just replacing everything. Another possibility is the ignition control module. BTW, when key is turned on, do your dash l;ights come on? If not, it could be your ignition switch. Check a repair manual for that flow-chart I mentioned.Last, have you checked for diagnostic codes from your engine computer?

first check with your GM dealership ,they have recall on ignition key ,based on your vin# you may get lucky, but if not here what you star with there is a resistor in your key(people call it chip,but it is nothing but a resistor to complete the circuit) clean both side with alcohol wipe,also check make sure there are resistance from one side to other,if it is open you need new key here are values,yours are one of these Resistor Values:

• 392: Orange, White, Red Black
• 523: Green, Red, Orange, Black
• 681: Blue, Gray, Brown, Black
• 887: Gray, Gray, Violet Black
• 1,130: Brown, Brown, Orange, Brown
• 1,470: Brown, Yellow, Violet, Brown
• 1,870: Brown, Gray, Violet, Brown
• 2,370: Red, Orange, Violet, Brown
• 3,010: Orange, Black, Brown, Brown
• 3,740: Orange, Violet, Yellow, Brown
• 4,750: Yellow, Violet, Green, Brown
• 6,040: Blue, Black, Yellow, Brown
• 7,500: Violet, Green, Black, Brown
• 9,530: White, Green, Orange, Brown
• 11,800: Brown, Brown, Gray, Red

next take the fuel pump relay out and check it Check the fuel pump relay first, take it out and check the pins. If they are discolored at all, I would replace it. You can clean up those pins and try it, and make sure the female spring clips are tight too. There is a hot wire straight to the pump but it's usually a real PITA to find. It's in the big harness leaving the under hood fuses, running under the brake booster. next you check fuel pressure make sure,pump is working correctly with key on/engine off should read 60 to 65 psi,with engine running about 55,next as engine running take the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator,and pressure should go up to 60 to 65,if not regulator is bad,also check inside the vacuum line and regulator if it is wet or gas present that means diaphragm in regulator is ruptured ,it is also bad,need to be changed,BUT BEFORE CHANGING PUMP.CHANGE THE FILTER ,SEE IF THAT BRING BACK THE PRESSURE UP, if all good then you need to check for spark let me know and I can help you more

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Lower RH front portion of Engine block, near Crankshaft three wires going to it , pink , yellow , purple ! th

Depends on what you drained. If you did just a normal service-- changed filter and fluid, start with 4 quarts, run engine and shift through all gears and put in park and check the dipstick. There is no exactt number as it depends haw long you let it drain. If you replaced trans, the torque converter will need quite a bit more fluid. Your shop manual will give an amount in pints, but this is just a guide and the dipstick rules. It will probably take another 1.5 to 2 quarts beyond the 4. The transfer case is a separate unit with its own drain and fill plugs. Don't neglect to change it also. Good to replace diff fluids too. Perhaps not as often, but cheap insurance. You will have to pump the fluid from these unless you want remove the covers and really clean them well. Since it is 4wd, check the condition of the vent hoses to prevent water getting in when you drive in deep water.

Power Steering Box Dirty

Dose your vehicle have the electronic shift for the transfer case. If so the TCCM transfer case control module . Could cause this however there is about 40 pages in the manual about what could be wrong with it . Mine has a shift lever on the floor and I have to tweek it all the time to make it work.. In short you need someone who spificly works on this system its complex but probblely he would know right away what to replace to correct it

what color is the fluid, are there oil lines above the starter?

Do you have tail ligts and side marker lights with drls on? if so you will have only dim headlights. Check fuses, I think the headlights are fused seperately.

Get a repair manual like Haines or Chilton that goes into detail regarding repairs like "freeze plugs".....they can be bought online or at auto stores like PepBoys, etc. Handy to have a repair man for your auto!!!!

Check your coil pack. Sounds like one or two need replacing.

Yes it should fit just fine as long as one doesn't have on wheel controls and the other does.

18436572. is the cylinder firing order. 1 is on the front divers side, 2 is on the front passenger side and so forth. On the distributor, 1 is at the front of it, pointing towards the number one cylinder. 8 is the next left one. and so forth.