The turn signal inicator light on the dash for the drivers side flashes rapidly, turn signal nor break light will work on drivers side back , but the tail light works fine. Bulb and fuses have been replaced. what could be causing this problem?
could be the flasher.
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
Hello! I seen some of your posts on here, and i'm hopeful that you may be able to help me out. I'm soooo lost as to what is wrong with my car, and how to fix it. Here's the problem....
First, I have a 1997 Cavalier RS, automatic, 2.2 engine. The car has the PASSLOCK anti theft system (original, not Passlock II)..
I had trouble almost a year ago with the PCM/Engine computer, and bought a new one from Autozone - they ofcourse sent it out to have it flashed for my specific VIN. After replacing the PCM, and doing the "Turn the ket for 10 minutes, then start" thing, it started, and everything was great!
Until one day, driving down the road, the PCM literally fell out of the car, and was ran over, twice. =/ This, ofcourse, damaged the PCM, and the engine wiring harness.
(I had the most difficult time ordering a new PCM from Autozone. First, I had one on order, had to borrow a car, and drive 50 miles to pick it up - only to find that the part was somehow not shipped, the order wasn't completed! So... I called another Autzone, in another town, and before going to pick it up, I called ahead, and again.......it didn't come in. So, finally... The part came in at the original store, and I got another ride to go pick it up.)
The PCM was hooked up, along with the wiring harness that I had to buy at a salvage yard (the original snapped when the PCM fell out - and the only place to purchase new is dealership, at around $1200!!! ....So, I had to go with the salvage yard).
The OBD II was reading "P1336", crankshaft relearn required? So.. Tried everything, nothing was working. The car would turn over, but not start, not even for a second or two. The anti-theft light would come on - not flashing, just staying on steady.
I then took this PCM back, thinking it may have been defective. This PCM has been hooked up.. The OBD II no longer reads "P1336". It finds no trouble codes at all... But.. The anti-theft light is still staying on steady. Now, the "check engine" light is also on.. And same deal, it turns over, with no start!
The "turn the key to ACC for 10 minutes, try to start" has been tried.. I'm so lost.
This is my only car, and it's been sooooo difficult being without a vehicle!
Any advice would be very much appreciated!! =)
~Sasha
[email protected]
You may have to relearn the passcode 3 times before it will take. When you leave the key on for the APPROX. time of ten minutes you want the sec light to go off and then shut the key off and do it again. 3 times. Try that and let me know. Thanks...Dan
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
what is the possibly cause of coolant leak, my car doesnt overheat but now i refill the reservoir everyday and i could see leak coming from under the engine.
Alright, the best way to find a leak is to fill the reservoir and get it up on ramps or a car lift would be excellent. Start the engine and find out where the leak is coming from. Most common leaks are simply just bad hoses or busted fittings. However, there could be a blown head gasket, hole in the radiator, or a bad seal on the thermostat housing.
I've even seen where a bad thermostat was causing high pressure in the water system and ended up blowing the excessive pressure and water out the overflow, even when the water was actually low. So, find the location of the leak. Use the method I told you and it will help you find the exact location. Then you can proceed on fixing the leak.
Hope this helps out! :)
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
need the firing order
Firing order 1-3-4-2
engine ----- coils ----
l 1 l l 1 4 l
l 2 l l 2 3 l
l 3 l
l 4 l
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
My car keeps coming up with the code p1133 when my dad puts it on the computer. The first time the car is started during the day it runs rough and the engine light is on. When the code comes up it says manufacturer malfunction air and fuel
GM p1133 = Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Insufficient Switching Bank 1 Sensor 1
more than likely you have a bad oxygen sensor...the primary oxygen sensor in the exhaust BEFORE the catalytic converter.
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Posted on Mar 30, 2009
just driving along and lost all coolant.
refilled at home couldn't find anything car heated up and as far as I can see it blew coolant past plastic reservoir lid seal. and then engine stalled or shut off.
can't find thermostat?
I was thinking bad thermostat or head gasket?
Check your oil and see if it is milky lookinig...that is a sign of a bad haed gasket....here is the location of the thermostat...unless a different engine size...then post what you have and I'll get you the diagram here:
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
What type of oil does a 1997 chevy cavalier take?
2.2 liter engine - 2.4 liter engine 5W30
Capacity with oil filter changed 3.8 liters.
Posted on Nov 13, 2009
belt routing 1997 2.2L chevy cavalier
HI. Your correct routing information will be posted below:
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
no signal to the starter
You have most likely been bitten by the starter relay bug. The Cavaliers had a problem with burning out ignition switches do to high current in the starter circuit. GM did a recall to fix it, but the wiring mods never made it to the manuals. They added a starter relay under the hood to save the ignition switch. This relay will usually fail every 5 years or so, but replacing it is easier and cheaper than the ignition switch. Locating it is easy. Open the hood. On the radiator shroud just to the drivers side of the radiator, there should be a small (2 inches square?" relays fastened to the backside of the shroud. This is what you need to replace. It is a special little ****** and I'm not sure that you can get it at an auto oarts store, but its about $30.00 at GM. Hope this helps!
Posted on Dec 27, 2011
why does my fuse for the radiator fan keep blowing
This is a sign that you have a power wire that is shorted to ground. First check the power wire leading to your fan to see if there is a possible short to ground. Sometimes if the wires are not secure, they can rub up against the spinning fan or melt against the exhaust, and then possibly short against the motor or frame. If the wires appear to be o.k., then check the fan motor to see if it is bad. Try spinning the fan blade manually and if it makes noise or won't spin, replace the motor. Once you isolate the short and repair it, you should be able to install a new fuse with no problem.
Posted on Sep 02, 2012
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