1997 Chevrolet Camaro - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You need to replace the optispark. THere is only one company that makes a good one and that is Petris. You are going to have to take the water pump off so you might as well get a new one of those while you are at it- Also check the timing cover seals for the water pump drive and optispark- good time to replace those too. I call it the LT1 tune up.

Hi John. not sure if this will help you out. or try this link might help you out. https://www.google.com/search?client=avast-a-1&q=Stereo+color+codes+for+a+1997+Camero+z28&oq=Stereo+color+codes+for+a+1997+Camero+z28&aqs=avast..69i57.708j0j7&ie=UTF-8 Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Trigger Pink Antenna Right Rear Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Side Panels Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue

Probably the ECM, the main computer

WHAT ENGINE DO YOU HAVE IN YOUR CAR?

Does it start in drive or reverse ?

Anti-theft system problem . You changed the ignition lock cylinder an key ????? The PASS-Key II® system is designed to prevent the engine from starting if the proper resistance is not sensed from the ignition key. Of the 15 key codes or resistance values available, only one will work with each BCM. Once the key code is programmed into the BCM, the resistance value is stored in a non-volatile memory. Did your old key have a resistor pellet on the side ?

Indeed yes Rob McConnell, 1997 does have the resistor (VATS) key... (a POPULAR topic = problematic system 9in my opinion)). Obviously you know... YES... trying the "spare" key could help... or the dirt on the contacts just inside the keyway needs to be disturbed JUST enough to allow for a decent contact... Always look at the key that it is dry and clean. If you have a crisp new dollar bill... and can fold the corner into a point... GENTLY Insert that into the keyway sufficiently to wipe the interior of those contacts... If your "CHIP" key has any contact left... that should be enough to get the security light out of your way... Carnac the Magnificent

It has second gear start. To activate and provide extra traction when pulling out of snow and muddy ground. z28 have positive traction rears.

Factory service information has a diagnostic procedure for thing's to check . Hooking up a factory scan tool (tech2) would be the first step ,Checking for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's DTC P1661 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit A voltage is supplied directly to the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). The powertrain control module (PCM) controls the lamp by grounding the control circuit via an internal switch called a driver. The primary function of the driver is to supply the ground for the component being controlled. Each driver has a fault line which is monitored by the PCM. When the PCM is commanding a component ON, the voltage of the control circuit should be near 0 volts. When the PCM is commanding the control circuit to a component OFF, the voltage potential of the circuit should be near battery voltage. If the fault detection circuit senses a voltage other than what is expected, the fault line status will change causing the DTC to set. Perform the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic System Check first, when the following conditions are present: • When the MIL does not turn ON when the the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Inoperative Circuit Description There should be a steady MIL with the ignition ON and the engine not running. Ignition feed voltage is supplied directly to the MIL bulb. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) turns the MIL ON by grounding the MIL control circuit. No MIL with the key ON, engine not running and DTC P1641 set suggests an open in the MIL control circuit. The diagnostic procedure for this is 17 step's . , the basic thing's checking B+ voltage at the connector for the IPC , checking the control circuit at the PCM connector , using the scan tool to check for bidirectional control of the MIL lamp . Checking wiring circuit for the control circuit . Disconnect the PCM connector that has control side wire for the MIL an ground it an see if the light lights . If it does ,replace the PCM . Check for open wire . ETC........ Check the MIL control circuit for an open. If the MIL control circuit is open, repair as necessary. Refer to Wiring Repairs . Finding wire diagrams would be a big help to you .

Wow, you replaced the injector and computer? The two least likely and most expensive parts first? A compression and leakdown test should have come right after plugs, wires and ign coil.

code p 1870 refers to transmission component slipping the transmission may need clutch and band adjustment or a pump pressure test check as it may not be producing enough pressure to keep components in place

Take it back two the garage you have the work done it's still under warranty I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_d44605e901cfe245

50 miles reduction in the conditions mentioned means that your economy is about right there is a small hose back from the tank to under the cap to release air trapped when filling koses can get loose , crack or break tank sender units gaskets can break down look around the tank area for the leak /smell a damp patch in the dust is a good give away

Pretty much has to be a fuse. Replace it even if it looks OK.

A flashing check engine light indicates active engine misfire. There should be codes set for these conditions. It could be low fuel pressure, but if you have not replaced the spark plugs and wires, I would look there. Failed ignition coils or ignition module can be culprits. Also plugged exhaust (catalytic converters) could be to blame as well. To test the catalytic converters, remove the oxygen sensors between the engine and converters and go for a drive. You can also unbolt the converters and run open exhaust. It will be loud, but if performance improves and normalizes, your exhaust is plugged and you will need to replace the converters.

You need to add a can of B&G 44K fuel additive with a tank 91 octane . This additive is the best on the market and is only available at dealerships. It will condition your fuel pump and injectors. Your problem sounds fuel related so try this first. Next cheapest will be the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the next cheapest will be Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) . Stay on 91 octane, good luck

The fuel pump relay is mounted behind the driver-side kick panel/dead pedal (driver-side left foot rest). Do you know where this is ?

What is liter size of engine. There is a difference between the 3.8L and 5.7L engines.

Check for spark. Ignition modules can do this, as can bad coil.

Tune up ???,air filter,