20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the coolant from the engine.
3. Recover the refrigerant.
4. Remove the glove compartment.
5. Remove the floor air outlet.
6. If equipped with a diesel engine, remove the powertrain control module.
7. Remove the kick panel trim.
8. Remove the blower motor.
9. Remove the steering column.
10. Tilt back the instrument panel assembly.
11. Remove the coolant recovery reservoir from the engine compartment.
12. Disconnect the heater hoses and the evaporator tube.
13. Remove the accumulator.
14. Remove the fasteners and the HVAC module assembly.
15. Remove the cover plate on the bottom of the HVAC module.
16. Remove the heater core and seal from the HVAC module.
17. Remove the case cover from the HVAC module.
18. Remove the evaporator core.

HVAC module mounting fastener locations

HVAC module components

To Install:
NOTE: If a new evaporator is being installed, add 3 fl oz (90 ml) of refrigerant oil to the new evaporator.

1. Install the evaporator core.
2. Install the case cover.
3. Install the heater core and the seal.
4. Install the cover plate on the bottom of the evaporator case to the HVAC module.
5. Install the HVAC module in the vehicle.
6. Install the accumulator.
7. Connect the evaporator tube and heater hoses.
8. Install the coolant recovery reservoir.
9. Install the instrument panel.
10. Install the steering column.
11. Install the blower motor and cover.
12. Install the kick panel trim.
13. Install the powertrain control module and tray.
14. Install the floor air outlet.
15. Add coolant to the cooling system.
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
17. Evacuate and charge the A/C system.
18. Check the system for leaks.

raeally sound s as if you fuel pump pickup is clogged. this is exactly what was wrong with a 1997 tahoe. no engine codes. slow acceleratoion fine all the way to freeway speeds 70mph. but if you go full throttle truck would buck and backfire through throttle body. it is a lot of work but you must drop the tank, inspect your lines into the tank, pull the pump replace the filer and if if filter is torn make sure pump is not also clogged. good luck

it could be the voltage regulator or a loose connection,check all the wiring & connectors....hope this helps.....cheers

Hello Friend:

#1) Double Check your Battery Charge it and clean Your Battery Posts and your Battery Cables ,Make sure there is NO Corrosion Hidden Under the Cables

#2) Now Test it for Cranking Volts.By having someone turn the Key to Start While they do that Take a Volt meter Put Black lead on Meter to NEG. Red Lead on Postive Post. With the Key in the Starting Position Your Meter should be 9.6 Volts at least.If it has 9.6 or More.

#3) Next Step is to Check your Solenoid & Starter DICONNECT the NEGATIVE Battery Cable, Raise your Truck up and Secure it w/Stands. With a Drop Light Take a Close look to See if your Battery Cable from your Starter and Your other 2-Smaller wires are Connected good and Tight.

#4) If all the wires are Good and Tight and Clean. Go Ahead and Remove your Starter mark your wires on the Solenoid so you get them back where the are Suppose to Go. Now Have it Bench Tested.Most Garages or even your Local Auto Parts Store can do This.

#5) If your Solenoid and Starter Don't Check out OK,Then Replace Starter and Solenoid.NOTE: Chevy Starters Have Shims that go Between the Starter and Block.Because the Casting on the Starters are not all the Same Thickness. If there were Shims when you Pulled your Stater Don't Throw them out you could Need them with your New Starter.

#6) Re-Install your NEW Starter and Solenoid Put your Wires Back on the Same Terminals they Came off the Old Starter Solenoid. Make Sure they are Good and Tight.

#7) Reconnect your FULLY CHARGED Battery. Remember your Stater should of had at Least 9.6 Volts Under Load .Or its no good.

#8) Now Try to Sart if it Starts Great the problem is Solved

#9) If it will still not Start The Next thing is Your Ignition Switch is Faulty , You should Replace the Ignition Switch.
Note: Your Regulator is Integrated inside your Alternator just for Future Knowlegde.

#10) This Should Solve your Problem.

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Thanks for Using Fixya From d_hubbs

You may have a broken direct drive drum or another internal problem that is preventing the forward clutch packs from being engaged. There might be a service code stored in the computer relating to the problem but if the problem is mechanical in nature it often won't set a code of any kind. I believe you have a 4L60E transmission in this vehicle and usually when I see this type of problem the transmission needs to come out and be repaired. Hope this helps a bit!

possibly fuse or could be oil pressure swich

remove the brake shoes, should be 4 bolts holding the axle in, pull out axle and bearing should be there also replace real seal

take the arm off and turn it round unitil it is at the position you want it to start from

problem could be in blower motor resistor or blower motor control switch is bad.

Hello, my name is Ben. Considering the fact you have replaced so many parts and you aren't getting a pulse to the injectors, I believe you have a faulty fuel pressure regulator. It's relatively easy to replace. It's held in place by a clip, just be careful so the clip doesn't go flying off never to be found again. Be sure to take the old regulator with you to the parts store.

Sounds like you have done your checks. Replace the ignition module.

Ok this can be 2 things.. Firstly check. Your park neutral switch.. If that fails a bushinn in the shift selector needs changing.. In somecases its attributed to a stuck clutch in the transmission.. Yes automatic vehicles have clutches in the transmission.. In this case you will need to rebuild the transmission using a full kit... Or buy a new one. Now if u don't have experience it will be very difficult to check these your self since u need to know exactly what to look for.. I strongly recommend a mechanic

Replace the fuel filter first and inspect your ICM (Ignition Control Module). Faulty ICM will fail when it starts to heat up and the engine will do what you have described.
Start with the simple and replace the fuel filter and have the ICM tested and replaced if it's bad. The wire leads to the ICM is also know to go bad from corrosion due to condensation that forms under the distributor cap.
Thank you for using fixya and keep us posted.

Is there another trigger for spark? Usually there is a crank position sensor AND a camshaft mounted trigger for your coil pack.

Check it out and repost!

has any one checked to see if the intake is leaking& Chevy does have a problem with the intakes leaking. This a thought hope it helps.

A good thing to check is the universal joints on your rear drive shaft. When they get worn, one of the first symptoms is a noise/ vibration that only occurs at certain speeds. Sometimes you can visually inspect them, and see signs of rusty powder coming out of the bearing caps.

pcv(positive crankcase ventilation) hose

That sounds like a bad tourqe converter.