20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Feel the hoses going into and out of the heater core. They should both be hot. There may be a 20 or 30 degree difference in temperature, but both should feel very hot to the touch. If one is really hot and the other just feels warm, the heater core is probably clogged. If you have access to an infrared thermometer, taking the temperature of the hoses is the best way to check this.
If both hoses feel "Warm" at idle and get really hot when the throttle is cracked open for a short period (20-30 Seconds ), the water pump may be the problem.
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It is a circuit breaker, in the fusebox at the left side of the dash it is a 20 amp for a 2-door, & a 30 amp for the 4-door. When you remove it use a test light there should be power on one side weather the key is on or off. If there is no power on either side, there may be a blown maxi-fuse in the fuse relay box under the hood. It can be tested with a fuse tester, or pull it out a & look at it.

You may have the same problem my Wifes car has right now- ice in the fuel line.

Dump a can of DryGas (or "Heet") in the tank, and after about an hour, start your truck. Let it run for 15 minutes or so (restart if it stalls) - if it will not run that long try moving your truck into a warm garage, let it sit for about an hour, and try again.

The DryGas does not perform miracles, and takes time, especially in the bitter cold as of late.

Fuel line icing is usually caused by allowing your vehicle to run nearly empty, and then refueling in cold weather. This causes condensation in the gas tank, which freezes in the gas lines.

I have repeated this mantra to my Wife for nearly our entire 27 years of marraige, but she still will run her tank nearly dry before getting gas, even though it has so far cost us two replacement gas tanks, more than a couple gas tank leak patches (the other problem with running low all the time is rotting out your tank!), and uncounted winter car starting problems. Please help me break the trend!

There is 1 blend door for a vehicle with a main temperature control, 2 for dual driver/passenger climate control settings etc. The vents however which open and close to switch between defrost, floor, bi level etc may not be functioning properly. You should feel the same temp in all your vent outlets, whether you're getting the volume out of each is something totally different to address

fan resistor is located in the top of the blower case on the right side of vehicle. remove the glove box to gain better access to it. here a picture to aid you hope this is very helpful

you need a p/s pulley puller

Crankshaft Position Sensor Removal & Installation 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L To Remove:

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.
   
   
3. Remove CKP sensor hold down bolt.
4. Remove CKP sensor.

To Install:
NOTE: Make sure that sensor is fully seated in front cover before tightening hold down bolt.

1. Install CKP sensor into front cover.
2. Install hold down bolt.
   • Torque to: 71 in lbs. (8 Nm).
3. Connect CKP sensor electrical connector.
4. Connect battery negative cable.
5. Perform the CKP system variation learn procedure.

pull the dist cap and rotor its located under there

sounds like you have to big a fuse causing to much power going to the light causing it to blow check the fuse should be a 20 or 25 amp no larger

Check for a loose fuse or loose wiring to the wiper. Also check for tight ground connection at the motor. The 'park' switch which completes each cycle may be intermittent. It might be a worn switch at the steering wheel.

THERE IS A FUSE, USUALLY IT WILL BE LABELED STOP. THE ONE THAT SAYS BRAKE MAY BE FOR THE ABS TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. { REPLACE THE STOP FUSE } . IF THE STOPLIGHT SWITCH IS BAD, IT IS NOT EASY TO CHANGE. IF THE TURN SIGNALS ARE WORKING IN THE REAR OF THE TRUCK, THAT MEANS THE BULBS ARE O.K. A BAD TURN SIGNAL SWITCH CAN ALSO KEEP THE STOPLIGHTS FROM WORKING, { LAST RESORT, EXPENSIVE & HARD TO REPLACE }

It is located under the hood on the drivers side right next to the fender. It's between the Fender and the Brake Control module. It's called the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) in this diagram.

You need a new socket! get what they call a 'pigtail' for the relay. The terminals like to push out and cause low voltage which melts the plastic from the heat that is produced.

Hello albertdavido: My name is Roger and I will help you. The noise you hear should be the fuel pump running. If the noise is excessive i would suggest replacing the fuel filter. When the fuel is restricted the pump will be exceptionally noisy. Should you need further help lease just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for trusting and using Fix Ya .Roger

1. battery cables clean -tigth
2. battery full charge
3. if this is good soleniod could be bad but you have to starter any wayso just have it check
4. if bad replace starter
5. yes jack vehicle up & always use jack stands before getting under any vehicle

The filter is located on the left frame rail just forward the fuel tank. Underneath the truck. Inline type filter.

on front of the engine next to the c/shaft pulley

check your heater core that might be what is leakin

could be egr system , intake air sensor , tps, vacuum leak, map sensor, bad distributor cap, wires, plugs, best way is to install a real time scanner( not a code scanner) with a fuel pressure guage, that should help narrrow your search

you can reassemble the cyl, if nothing was damaged, something is amiss with the brakes either adjustment or size, adjust them so the shoes just touch the drums, before you do that loosen the parking brake all the way, adjust the brakes then the parking brake