20 Most Recent 1996 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 8 Questions & Answers


I believe Neutral start switch is in the transmission. Try to start with the shifter in Neutral instead of Park. Make sure the wires to the neutral switch are intact. Make sure the battery cables are good and measure the voltage at the starter solenoid.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jul 09, 2014


Blazer known for wiring in rear gate going bad, bare and shorts out.
1. check all fuses (all of them) to be good.
2. replace any that are not.
3. check owners manual to see if the items no working are sharing the same fuse.
If not:
4. pull the fuse out for the tailgate
5. and test each item again.
if problem persists, you have a wiring problem. You will have to check each wire from the fuse box back to each element (washer, horn, lock.. Test for continuity (breaks along wire, tight connections at each end). repair any you find bare or broke or loose.
Repeat until all wires are checked. You can use wiring tester with a sharp probe and built in light with wire and clip on other end, you do not need ohm meter.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jun 22, 2014


Take it to your local Chevy dealer for soulition and repair.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jun 21, 2014


Fuel filter on a 1996 S 10 Blazer is located on the inside of frame rail just under the drivers side door.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jun 20, 2014


you must make sure the compressor is working first. if not coming on(and or cycling). may need to be charge up, with r134/refrigerant. or it has a elecetrical problem.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on Jun 20, 2014


your problem moest likely not relay need to cheak fuel pressure and spark control modul e egr valve could be stuck also I had the same problem with my 1993 s10 relay is under the hood usely on the right side on the firewall

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 31, 2014


If you don't know take it too some one who does cause I did my own it cost me $1200. bucks too fix it right.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 28, 2014


Ok, is it a 1996 Chevrolet Blazer or as 2001 S10 you need the ingo for

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 15, 2014


The first thing is to check if you have enough transmission fluid in it. There is a dip stick and if you don't see any fluid on the dipstick, then add one half quart at a time and see if this helps. Also, there is a transmission repair fluid that may help such as "slip stop". List Transmission Treatments Additives Reilly Auto Parts

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 09, 2014


Hi Sylvia,

If you're going to be maintaining this vehicle, you should consider joining a group of people with the same vehicle. There, you can ask questions and get replies from many different people that may have had the same problem before. One such forum is linked below. I found a user in the "blazer forum" (http://blazerforum.com) talking about his issues with the fuel pump in his '96 Blazer:

"..the fuel pump FUSE is the ECM BATT fuse which is #9 in the fuse box on the driver side (accessible when driver door is open). The fuel pump RELAY is in the glove box (there are 3) and it is the one on the left,closest to the driver side. The relay on the right, closest to the passenger door, is for the horn."

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 07, 2014


I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.

After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."

My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."

CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.

These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.

Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.



Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.

The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.

The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.

Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.

The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.

Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.


These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.

Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.

(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.


Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.

Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.

You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.

The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.

The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.

78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21
19 19 49

vin
ECU
30 Block
code

Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.

Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.

Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.

If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.

"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."

Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.

How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.


IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.

1996 Chevrolet... | Answered on May 05, 2014

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